bell tech (3/4?) 4x4 kit install problems
bell tech (3/4?) 4x4 kit install problems
I got the front done fairly easy, although I had to run the torsion key adjuster bolts almost up to the bolt head just to engage the pivot socket in the key at full extension travel. I'm worried if I go any further, if I ever caught air, that whole adjusting nut assembly would pop out, and I only got 2" of drop out of it.
As far as the back, I'm trying to get those !@#$!@# rivets out of the leaf spring hangers, and see some suggestions from other people about how to get rid of them, but I guess my air chisel is total cheese. Can anyone recommend a good air chisel that will make those things just a memory?
I started on the passenger side, but after a couple of hours, I've got two of them off, and the level of sparkage going on doesn't give me a warm fuzzy about the fuel tank side, although I think I just saw some photos of someone who did it recently but couldn't track that thread down.
I can see why they recommend removing the bed, but I'm working solo, and someone else has my engine hoist.
As far as the back, I'm trying to get those !@#$!@# rivets out of the leaf spring hangers, and see some suggestions from other people about how to get rid of them, but I guess my air chisel is total cheese. Can anyone recommend a good air chisel that will make those things just a memory?
I started on the passenger side, but after a couple of hours, I've got two of them off, and the level of sparkage going on doesn't give me a warm fuzzy about the fuel tank side, although I think I just saw some photos of someone who did it recently but couldn't track that thread down.
I can see why they recommend removing the bed, but I'm working solo, and someone else has my engine hoist.
a couple hours and u only have 2 off?? what are u working with hand tools??they require alot of work yes.. i did mine solo in my garage with the bed on.. use a die grinder cut a slit in the head of the rivet.. take the air chisel and chisel the heads off the bolts then punch the rivet through with the air hammer.. ingersol rand is what i use
a couple hours and u only have 2 off?? what are u working with hand tools??they require alot of work yes.. i did mine solo in my garage with the bed on.. use a die grinder cut a slit in the head of the rivet.. take the air chisel and chisel the heads off the bolts then punch the rivet through with the air hammer.. ingersol rand is what i use
no
did the die grinder slit(s)
have you got a model # on your air hammer?
120psi available, but not really sure where I got the air hammerette I have
ingersol rand 114gqc is the one i have..
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...2899_200342899
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...2899_200342899
I got the front done fairly easy, although I had to run the torsion key adjuster bolts almost up to the bolt head just to engage the pivot socket in the key at full extension travel. I'm worried if I go any further, if I ever caught air, that whole adjusting nut assembly would pop out, and I only got 2" of drop out of it.
As far as the back, I'm trying to get those !@#$!@# rivets out of the leaf spring hangers, and see some suggestions from other people about how to get rid of them, but I guess my air chisel is total cheese. Can anyone recommend a good air chisel that will make those things just a memory?
I started on the passenger side, but after a couple of hours, I've got two of them off, and the level of sparkage going on doesn't give me a warm fuzzy about the fuel tank side, although I think I just saw some photos of someone who did it recently but couldn't track that thread down.
I can see why they recommend removing the bed, but I'm working solo, and someone else has my engine hoist.
As far as the back, I'm trying to get those !@#$!@# rivets out of the leaf spring hangers, and see some suggestions from other people about how to get rid of them, but I guess my air chisel is total cheese. Can anyone recommend a good air chisel that will make those things just a memory?
I started on the passenger side, but after a couple of hours, I've got two of them off, and the level of sparkage going on doesn't give me a warm fuzzy about the fuel tank side, although I think I just saw some photos of someone who did it recently but couldn't track that thread down.
I can see why they recommend removing the bed, but I'm working solo, and someone else has my engine hoist.
ingersol rand 114gqc is the one i have..
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...2899_200342899
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...2899_200342899
haha, around here they never met a hill they would flatten,a curve they would straighten, or a road that would be called the same thing for more than a mile or two.
i'm not talking full on "dixie" style, four wheel air jumpin', bridge out ahead type stuff...
may be welding the adjuster nut to the x-member
Shouldn't you get 4" of rear drop on a 4x4 by removing the blocks and installing 2" drop shackles? And not even worrying about the hangers?
...What I did on my '02 was used the die grinder to cut two slits in the rivets (an "X") and then used the chisel to knock the four smaller pieces off. Still took awhile though.
...What I did on my '02 was used the die grinder to cut two slits in the rivets (an "X") and then used the chisel to knock the four smaller pieces off. Still took awhile though.
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Shouldn't you get 4" of rear drop on a 4x4 by removing the blocks and installing 2" drop shackles? And not even worrying about the hangers?
...What I did on my '02 was used the die grinder to cut two slits in the rivets (an "X") and then used the chisel to knock the four smaller pieces off. Still took awhile though.
...What I did on my '02 was used the die grinder to cut two slits in the rivets (an "X") and then used the chisel to knock the four smaller pieces off. Still took awhile though.



