1997 - 2003 F-150

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Old Apr 3, 2010 | 09:13 PM
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Starter or what

I have a 1999 f-150, when I go to work the truck starts and runs like a champ, turn it off, wont start. Let it cool down, starts and runs great till I turn it off, will not start. Went to work yesterday and when I got off work it was about eighty degrees, came in this morning at 0630, started like a champ, got home, shut it off, went to start it, guess what, would not start. Came home tonight and it started. I think I am seeing a trend??? Any help would much be appreciated.

B-2 cc
 
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Old Apr 3, 2010 | 09:39 PM
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Ok what does it do when it won't start? Are you just hearing a click? Or is the engine cranking but not firing?
 
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Old Apr 4, 2010 | 08:47 AM
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just a click, the engine will not crank at all
 
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Old Apr 4, 2010 | 09:06 AM
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Just take the starter into autozone or whereever and have it tested. It could be the solenoid or the starter it self.

I had one do something like that. The starter was bad.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2010 | 01:02 PM
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Just changed the starter, same problem
 
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Old Apr 4, 2010 | 03:38 PM
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Same trouble here

Don't want to steal the thread from the OP, but this sounds almost identical to a problem developing with my 2000 (5.4L 2WD).

Wouldn't start back up after running some errands yesterday. Went and bought a new starter, but when I was going to replace it the truck started up with no trouble. So I returned the starter this morning, then when I went to get something for lunch the truck wouldn't start back up to come home.

The AutoZone manager ran a diagnostic on my starting system when I returned the starter and said the starter, battery and alternator all showed no signs of trouble. He suggested to check the wiring and contacts at the battery terminals, starter and starter relay.

I'm going to check all those in a bit, but I figured I'd come on here and see if I could find any nuggets of wisdom while I wait for the weather to cool down a little. Anyone else had this trouble before?

Edit: To be clear, the battery is fully charged (even boosted by another car while trying to start last time), all accessories run and come on as they should, but I don't get anything from the starter. No clicks, no discernible sounds. Like it's not even trying.
 

Last edited by ucfperspicere; Apr 4, 2010 at 03:48 PM.
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Old Apr 4, 2010 | 06:24 PM
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sounds like the exact same thing, when she cools off, no problem starting. auto zone told me to try hooking my jumper cable to the negative side of the battery the to a location on the block to see if i have a bad ground when she warms up, otherwise everyone keeps scrating there head.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2010 | 06:27 PM
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anybody know where the starter relay is? RECAP - 1990 Ext Cab 5.4
 
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Old Apr 4, 2010 | 07:15 PM
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The starter solenoid is on the firewall by the battery. Its the same style for has been using for YEARS. It may not be the definite fix for your problem but even the Duralast Gold model form Autozone is only $20. So it is worth it just to change it for piece of mind. I have seen them go bad before. HTH
 
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Old Apr 4, 2010 | 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by fire730
The starter solenoid is on the firewall by the battery. Its the same style for has been using for YEARS. It may not be the definite fix for your problem but even the Duralast Gold model form Autozone is only $20. So it is worth it just to change it for piece of mind. I have seen them go bad before. HTH
GMTA. Given the intermittent problem, I usually think first to electrical components. While inspecting the connections I didn't see any obvious corrosion or torn/cut insulation, so I chose the "weakest link" (or the cheapest, anyway), and bought a Duralast Gold starter solenoid/relay from AutoZone.

Hopefully this has solved the problem. I'll update if failed starting persists.

Thanks!
 
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Old Apr 4, 2010 | 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by B-2 CREW CHIEF
anybody know where the starter relay is? RECAP - 1990 Ext Cab 5.4
I assume you mean 1999 (per first post). It should be at the top of the firewall, near the battery, but just a little bit to toward the driver's side. If yours is stock, it has two large copper posts (centered, top and bottom) with a Y-shaped plastic molding leading a pair of ring connectors, one to each of these posts. (If you have aftermarket accessories, like an alarm system or e-fans, there may be additional ring connectors on the bottom post.) There's another smaller wire coming off the right/driver's side of the cylindrical relay. Its connector boot fully covers the smaller post to which it is attached.

The replacement/aftermarket relay looks essentially the same, except there'd be an additional unused smaller post on the left/passenger side of the relay.

AutoZone replacement pictures are available of the part alone, without wires. Third one gives the perspective you'd see from looking directly at the firewall. Good luck.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2010 | 09:51 AM
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BTW, does anyone know what that fourth, smaller post on the aftermarket solenoid/relay is for? It's labeled with an "I". It looks like the Ford OE part has the internal trappings, but the post is omitted (there's a little plastic black circle where the post would be).

Just curious. And if not in use, should I cover it with a plastic tab or electrical tape?
 
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Old Apr 5, 2010 | 10:11 AM
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I would assume your solenoid is shot. Like everyone has said, replace it, its 10-20 dollars... and the peace of mind is worth it. Also clean your battery terminals, and connectors (to the starter, solenoid, so on and so forth).

-Matt
 
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Old Apr 5, 2010 | 10:53 AM
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B-2 CC,

I found this good article for troubleshooting starter / solenoid problems. It's written for a car with a starter-mounted solenoid, but you should be able to adapt it for the F150. I'm guessing I was having what the article writer called "the famous VW hot-start sticky solenoid problem". You said you heard clicking, though, so you may have a different problem. Hopefully this helps you figure it out.


To answer my own question about the "I" terminal, I found this Q&A site which says, "On a typical Ford solenoid, the I terminal is for older vehicles that used a ballast resistor bypass in the ignition coil circuit." The responder confirms "the terminal is left unused" on newer vehicles. I'll probably go ahead and cover it with liquid electrical tape. This FAQ has a pretty good explanation of what a ballast resistor bypass is and why it was used on older vehicles, if you're interested.
 

Last edited by ucfperspicere; Apr 5, 2010 at 11:13 AM. Reason: Added site for ballast resistor bypass.
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Old Apr 6, 2010 | 05:38 AM
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that intermittent problem is your crankshaft position sensor...I too had these intermittent problems over the last few years and recently became more of problem.

changed starter solenoid and upgraded battery to kragen exide marathon battery...still had problem...changed fuel filter and tested fuel pump(good to go)....still had intermittent prob

crankshaft position sensor was culprit!...took 2 hours to change...have to take belt off and remove ac compressor bolts push to the side...no problems and goin 4 months strong

good luck! for all electrical parts stick to motorcraft parts!
 
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