Take them to Home Depot and find a match. The dealer will have them but expect to pay an arm and a leg for them.

.

 

I will do that, as long as they are the same thread pattern and length. Galvanized, or stainless? Also any chance anyone know,
the torque specs on these bolts?

 

I prefer Stainless. The torque is 28 to 38 ft/lbs.

Regards

Jean Marc Chartier

 

Thanks JMC, i will go with the stainless.

 

Hello all,
I cant get my filler nut removed. What is my next step in filling up m rear diff?

 

Remove the cover and do what you have to do with it.

 

My cover is already off and cleaned, old oil is out. I have my RTV gasket around the pumpkin and cover with the gasket on the cover as well. The only thing i can do is bolt the bottom 5 bolts and try to wedge in a small funnel through the top of the cover and pour in from the top. My filler nut, and my ABS sensor nut are fused in and are no way coming out. Is this way my only hope?

 

Did you round the corners of the plug because you couldn't push the extension all the way in? Find a cheap one and remove the ball so it can be seated all the way in. ford uses a thread locker on the plug so it might be stiff.

.

 

Thats exactly what i did, was slightly round the corners, not bad though. My problem was not being able to seat the the extension all the way in.

 

This is where I am at. After i removed my cover and cleaned it up. used an actual gasket as well as RTV black sealant. i still have a leak, not from the cover though. Where the drive shaft(prop shaft) meets the rear diff, that's where it is leaking from. There must be a seal there. What do i have to do to replace or fix this problem? I know there is 4 torx style bolts connecting this drive shaft to the rear diff, what is the next step?
Thanks

 

There is another flange connected to the differential to secure the driveshaft, after that I'm not really sure how to pull it out to get to the seal.

After you changed your fluid did it clear things up? I'm having the exact same problem with my truck.

 

After i changed my fluid, It ran like brand new, except for the fact im loosing all my fluid.

Does anyone know the steps in changing the seal from the driveshaft to the rear diff???

 

Hello,

After reading these boards for quite some time and after reading this thread, I had to register so I could reply.

Just today, I replaced the seal on my differential. I had never done it before so I learned quite a bit. Here is my description:

You will need to pull the 4 bolts holding the u-joint to the mounting plate. (If the truck is not up in the air, you will need to make sure the parking brake is on and the wheels are chocked). On mine, I used a 12mm 12pt socket with an extention. Since the threads are locked, I used an impact set up to loosen them being careful not to round over the bolt heads.

Before dropping the drive shaft, I put wittness marks where needed so I can put it back together exactly where it was. When the drive shaft is out of the way, you will see a 1-1/16" nut in the center right behind the plate. Using an impact gun, carefully back the nut off of the threaded spline.

With the nut off, now you will have to use a 6" gear puller to remove the u-joint mounting plate from the differential. This will expose the seal. The seal is seated with the rim of the seal resting on the differential housing. I used a flat head screwdriver and gently tapped the rim to seperate it from the differential.

Once the seal is off, everything needs cleaned. The new seal can be tapped in place. Now reassemble in the reverse order keeping an eye on the wittness marks. You may have to use the impact gun to seat the seal while torquing the u-joint plate back in place. Don't use the impact on the u-joint plate bolts, they will round over pretty easy. Check the u-joint for grease and lube it if needed. Refill the differential with the recommended oil and limited slip modifier. Road test and check for leaks. Thats about it.

This job took me about 4 hours to complete, but that was the entire job including new gear oil and pan gasket.

All materials ran about $60.

Oh, 2002 scab, 4.6, long bed.

 

Thanks, your rear diff, is it an 8.8" as well?

 

My 02 Supercrew takes two bottles of the modifier. It also does not have a gasket. I changed mine about a month ago after having the same problems that you are having. Fixed the problem.

Do not use RTV Blue Gasket sealer. It is for water applications. Use the Black or Gray. The change is easy but expensive. My rear end takes three and half liters plus two bottles of Motorcraft Modifier(Ford recommended) . Total cost around eighty bucks. Time to do the job....thirty minutes.

Be sure to scrap the old seal off or you will have a leak. Use a putty knife so that you do not gouge the metal.

Whitdog