1997 - 2003 F-150

New Battery or what?

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Old Feb 21, 2010 | 12:27 AM
  #16  
fastforward7's Avatar
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From: Oregon
Originally Posted by Krokis
and again, thanks all



That actually worked when the truck would normally not start
but this weekend i did that and it didn't start right up even after i had "pressurized it"
or so to speak
Are you sure the fuel rail actually had pressure? Try this, on the passenger side of your truck on the back of the fuel rail there's a little shrader valve for relieving pressure on the line. The next time your truck won't start unscrew the cap and use a pen or something to open the valve. You should get fuel out of it.

Another question, when it cranks and doesn't start does it seem like it's cranking sluggishly or slowly?

I'd check your alternator. I had almost your exact same problems and it turned out to be a failing alternator. The alternator eventually went completely belly up and the problem hasn't reoccurred since I replaced it.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2010 | 07:41 PM
  #17  
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Another question, when it cranks and doesn't start does it seem like it's cranking sluggishly or slowly?

I'd check your alternator. I had almost your exact same problems and it turned out to be a failing alternator. The alternator eventually went completely belly up and the problem hasn't reoccurred since I replaced it.
When it doesn't start the first time it does seem to start slower so that might be my problem, i hope it is

i have AAA so i think i can call them and get a free battery, even if i don't need one
 
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Old Feb 21, 2010 | 09:12 PM
  #18  
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It sound to me like your fuel pump is on it's way out, and because you make a lot of short trips and frequent starts you battery is weak, and not up the the extra cranking. If the fuel pump fails completely, then it won't start even if you jump it. You could first start with a new battery, because if you have had to jump it the damage may already be done.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2010 | 10:06 PM
  #19  
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just trowing this in to this discussion,
in all actuality even if the truck turns over because of the starter activating does not necessarily mean the truck will start, simple because on most car/trucks now a days the computer will since how much voltage the battery has when starting, if there is under a certain amount, it won't start because the computer won't apply the spark, or spay the injectors. but the starter will still turn over..

also i have been told to fully charge your batter the vehicle really needs to be ran for around 30min (thats from dead 12.20 volts to full 12.7) yes 12.20 volts is considered a dead battery... so in all actuality even if your alt is working, but you only drive the truck 10 miles at one time then turn it off. you are not really charging the battery, and it will adventually die on you from being undercharged to much.


a good at home check if you have access to a DMM (digital multi-meter) put it on voltage first you need to drain the face charge (turn on brights for around 2 min) then check from pos to neg and see what you read. (12.45 if 75% battery life) now have a friend turn over the vehicle, if the dmm reads less than 9.6 volts you have a dead battery and it needs to be replaced..
 
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Old Feb 21, 2010 | 10:13 PM
  #20  
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From: Wisconsin
Originally Posted by Underdog96U
a good at home check if you have access to a DMM (digital multi-meter) put it on voltage first you need to drain the face charge (turn on brights for around 2 min) then check from pos to neg and see what you read. (12.45 if 75% battery life) now have a friend turn over the vehicle, if the dmm reads less than 9.6 volts you have a dead battery and it needs to be replaced..
Or get one of these and do all that from the driver seat.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2010 | 10:20 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by greencrew
Or get one of these and do all that from the driver seat.
well thats just to easy.. it takes the fun out of it...
 
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Old Feb 22, 2010 | 07:06 PM
  #22  
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ill have to do that, im gonna go to o'reillys tomorrow probably and have them check it
 
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