Ignition lock cylinder problem
Ok here is the deal, my ignition cylinder thinks my key is in all the time (even if the key is not in, when I open the door the chime goes off and my headlights are off...) so it keeps on killing my battery after sitting for a few days. I have the cylinder out of my truck, and I cant see what it uses to know if the key is in there or not. anyone had this problem? If so how did you fix it? I really don't want to get a new lock cylinder if possible.
Last edited by rednutbow; Feb 17, 2010 at 01:23 AM.
Had a similiar problem in my old Eclipse..... just shot some WD-40 into the opening for the key, put in key and turned it back and forth, removed and reinserted a few times, and it was fixed. Never had a problem again.
Matt
Matt
I had the lock cylinder fall out of the ignition of my 97. It has a key way type opening in the end of the cylinder. I had to grind the sides of of a screwdriver into a shape that was notched on the sides. That way the screwdriver would fit through the key way and turn the ignition on and off. I operated it this way for about two weeks before the dealership got the new cylinder put together right. By keyway, I'm talking about a shape tha would let the screwdriver in, but would not let it turn, so I notched the sides of the screwdriver.
I hope that helps with the question you need answered
I hope that helps with the question you need answered
lol
I would say I don't want some jackson coming along stealing my truck, but you cant see in my windows to see that the lock is missing...
I would say I don't want some jackson coming along stealing my truck, but you cant see in my windows to see that the lock is missing...
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Ok ive figured out that its not the lock cylinder or the ignition box under the steering wheel. The one thing I think that it may be is a short. Can someone tell me if there truck has power going to the little electrode inside the key cylinder? where the key tumbler inserts into the collum.
Any info is appreciated because its driving me up the wall.
David
Any info is appreciated because its driving me up the wall.
David
Yes, the lock cylinder has a metal tang on it that is pushed out wards by a pin the key pushes out when you insert it. A small squirt of graphite in the key hole may loosen the pin up, if that is the problem. But it isn't an instant fix,as it would take the powder a while to penetrate any corrosion.
I would rather remove the cylinder to lubricate it. But I wouldn't spray WD40 in it at all. Locksmiths (the ones I've watched) always use graphite, so there must be a reason.
I would rather remove the cylinder to lubricate it. But I wouldn't spray WD40 in it at all. Locksmiths (the ones I've watched) always use graphite, so there must be a reason.
Tumba, I have tryed a new key cylinder that is not the problem... (as above states^) Im asking when you take the key cylinder out there is a electrode that pushes up against a contact on the side of the key cylinder itself. I want to know if that has 12V going to it.
When mine broke, I called the ford dealership to have them key a brandnew one for me by the truck serial number. They did OK with that and making the key fit. But when they put it back together, they put the outside sleeve on backwards, and I douldn't get it in the ignition. So I took it to a locksmith to get him to figure out what was wrong. When he figured it out , he gave the guy at the dealership a hard time about it.
This is what im talking about. Does that tab (circled in the first pic) have +12v going to it?


And I know I didn't spell touches right...


And I know I didn't spell touches right...
Last edited by rednutbow; Feb 15, 2010 at 05:40 PM.
The tab on the right with the orange chunk on the end completes the circut when the key is inserted. Pretty sure it's just a ground circut. Sounds like the tab on yours is broken, i believe you can only get one with the lock cyl kit. Take the orange thing off the lock cyl and it should stop your issue. You will probably get a key in circut fault dtc but it shouldn't trip the cel.



