Two questions: Oil in the spark plug holes and pinging..
Two questions: Oil in the spark plug holes and pinging..
Did a search with a few results.
2001 5.4 SuperCrew 2WD, 165k miles. Got 13 MPG on a 300 mile trip today.
Changed the spark plugs this weekend. Noticed that the two rear plugs on the drivers side had oil all over the outside when pulled out. Any idea where the oil might be coming from? Valve cover? Intake?
BTW, the plugs where whitish in color. Might be from Techron injector cleaner?
Second question: The truck has pinged for just about forever when cruising on the highway at about 75 mph. Does it with regular and premium gas. Around town it's quite. Any ideas on what might be causing it? Would an induction cleaning help?
From the search, what is a motorvac? Same as an induction cleaning? I'm going to check for vacuum leaks due to the white plugs. maybe it's runnng lean? A lot of the hoses are showing their age.
Thanks!
2001 5.4 SuperCrew 2WD, 165k miles. Got 13 MPG on a 300 mile trip today.
Changed the spark plugs this weekend. Noticed that the two rear plugs on the drivers side had oil all over the outside when pulled out. Any idea where the oil might be coming from? Valve cover? Intake?
BTW, the plugs where whitish in color. Might be from Techron injector cleaner?
Second question: The truck has pinged for just about forever when cruising on the highway at about 75 mph. Does it with regular and premium gas. Around town it's quite. Any ideas on what might be causing it? Would an induction cleaning help?
From the search, what is a motorvac? Same as an induction cleaning? I'm going to check for vacuum leaks due to the white plugs. maybe it's runnng lean? A lot of the hoses are showing their age.
Thanks!
Last edited by a930rocket; Jan 26, 2010 at 05:57 PM.
Some things to consider.
Plug color in a FI motor cannot be used to tell much about A/F ratios because they are run at A/F ratios dictated by the OX sensors and will look leanish if you are use to compairing to a carbed motor.
Running in OD under light load invokes the EGR system.
When it is working, the fuel is cut back and ignition is advanced.
If pinging, there could be several causes.
Low fuel quality, malfunction of the EGR action, low fuel pressure.
Next, excess air entering the intake after the mass air meter would be detected by the OX sensors such that they usually "richen" up the mix not lean it out like a carbed motor might do.
If no stored codes, you might want to replace the OX sensors on just the age factor as they may be caked up with deposits and slow responding to oxygen content changes.
Test the EGR function for leakage when it is supposed to be closed off to the intake manifold. This will also check for any blockage in the intake port behind the EGR. Normally opening the EGR on an idling engine will cause it to run rough if the port is not blocked.
The rest is to service per the age and mileage, the plugs, replace the fuel filter and clean the mass air meter and run good injector cleaner to one tank of fuel, no other additives.
Good luck.
Plug color in a FI motor cannot be used to tell much about A/F ratios because they are run at A/F ratios dictated by the OX sensors and will look leanish if you are use to compairing to a carbed motor.
Running in OD under light load invokes the EGR system.
When it is working, the fuel is cut back and ignition is advanced.
If pinging, there could be several causes.
Low fuel quality, malfunction of the EGR action, low fuel pressure.
Next, excess air entering the intake after the mass air meter would be detected by the OX sensors such that they usually "richen" up the mix not lean it out like a carbed motor might do.
If no stored codes, you might want to replace the OX sensors on just the age factor as they may be caked up with deposits and slow responding to oxygen content changes.
Test the EGR function for leakage when it is supposed to be closed off to the intake manifold. This will also check for any blockage in the intake port behind the EGR. Normally opening the EGR on an idling engine will cause it to run rough if the port is not blocked.
The rest is to service per the age and mileage, the plugs, replace the fuel filter and clean the mass air meter and run good injector cleaner to one tank of fuel, no other additives.
Good luck.
Thanks.
The only codes comig up have been excess EGR flow I think it is. I cleaned the EGR valve, did a vacuum test on it and it worked good. Cleaned all the vacuum lines to it and the FPDE (sp?). The FPDE, EGR, EGR solinoid, fuel filter and air filter have all been replaced in the past 6 months.
There is a slight hesitaton or misfire at about 45 mph and 2k rpm.
How do I test the EGR? Pull a vacuum at idle?
How do I clean the MAF? Pull it apart and clean it with what?
The only codes comig up have been excess EGR flow I think it is. I cleaned the EGR valve, did a vacuum test on it and it worked good. Cleaned all the vacuum lines to it and the FPDE (sp?). The FPDE, EGR, EGR solinoid, fuel filter and air filter have all been replaced in the past 6 months.
There is a slight hesitaton or misfire at about 45 mph and 2k rpm.
How do I test the EGR? Pull a vacuum at idle?
How do I clean the MAF? Pull it apart and clean it with what?
There is a slight hesitaton or misfire at about 45 mph and 2k rpm.
Spark plugs with excessive miles on them, or ANY spark plugs that are not OEM Motorcraft, can cause this (Autolites and Bosch are not the right plugs for the engine). So can weak coil-on-plugs, you can buy a full set of DG508's on Ebay from Global or Uneek for under $100. As already stated, so can old tired front O2 sensors, use only OEM or Bosch. An uncorrectable vacuum leak will usually throw a code, but check the PCV system - the elbow behind the intake manifold has a tendency to crack. Check the valve grommet for hardening or leakage, if the PCV valve is not OEM, put one in, aftermarkets don't meter right.
An EGR system that throws codes can cause this, and it has to be taken care of. A non-Motorcraft DPFE can cause issues. Any cracked or plugged vacuum hose can cause it. So can clogged passages in the throttle body, but that is usually the cause of insufficient flow, not excessive flow.
The 2 best known types of induction cleaning are Motorvac and BG. Well worth it if it's never been done.
How do I test the EGR? Pull a vacuum at idle?
How do I clean the MAF? Pull it apart and clean it with what?
The oil leakage into the wells is usually cam cover gaskets.
Thanks glc.
The plugs are brand new Motorcraft. The COPs are original, as are the O2 sensors (165k miles). Looks like I need to splurge for new O2 sensors, COPs, PVC grommet, a Motorvac/BG cleaning and will replace original vacuum lines. The 90* elbow looked OK when I replaced the plugs last weekend, as did the EGR when I suck on it. I'll check them again.
It's been a good truck with low maintenance for 9 years and 165k miles. Just time for TLC I guess.
The plugs are brand new Motorcraft. The COPs are original, as are the O2 sensors (165k miles). Looks like I need to splurge for new O2 sensors, COPs, PVC grommet, a Motorvac/BG cleaning and will replace original vacuum lines. The 90* elbow looked OK when I replaced the plugs last weekend, as did the EGR when I suck on it. I'll check them again.
It's been a good truck with low maintenance for 9 years and 165k miles. Just time for TLC I guess.
That's a low grade misfire, caused by worn ignition parts and/or an excessively lean mixture.
Spark plugs with excessive miles on them, or ANY spark plugs that are not OEM Motorcraft, can cause this (Autolites and Bosch are not the right plugs for the engine). So can weak coil-on-plugs, you can buy a full set of DG508's on Ebay from Global or Uneek for under $100. As already stated, so can old tired front O2 sensors, use only OEM or Bosch. An uncorrectable vacuum leak will usually throw a code, but check the PCV system - the elbow behind the intake manifold has a tendency to crack. Check the valve grommet for hardening or leakage, if the PCV valve is not OEM, put one in, aftermarkets don't meter right.
An EGR system that throws codes can cause this, and it has to be taken care of. A non-Motorcraft DPFE can cause issues. Any cracked or plugged vacuum hose can cause it. So can clogged passages in the throttle body, but that is usually the cause of insufficient flow, not excessive flow.
The 2 best known types of induction cleaning are Motorvac and BG. Well worth it if it's never been done.
Remove the vacuum hose from it and connect a long piece of hose to it and suck on it.
Open the air cleaner and lift up the intake tube so you can see down it. You will see the MAF sticking out into it. Take a can of CRC MAF cleaner, hook up the straw, and spray the MAF. Give it a few shots with the straw about an inch from it, and let it dry for about 15 minutes. Reassemble.
The oil leakage into the wells is usually cam cover gaskets.
Spark plugs with excessive miles on them, or ANY spark plugs that are not OEM Motorcraft, can cause this (Autolites and Bosch are not the right plugs for the engine). So can weak coil-on-plugs, you can buy a full set of DG508's on Ebay from Global or Uneek for under $100. As already stated, so can old tired front O2 sensors, use only OEM or Bosch. An uncorrectable vacuum leak will usually throw a code, but check the PCV system - the elbow behind the intake manifold has a tendency to crack. Check the valve grommet for hardening or leakage, if the PCV valve is not OEM, put one in, aftermarkets don't meter right.
An EGR system that throws codes can cause this, and it has to be taken care of. A non-Motorcraft DPFE can cause issues. Any cracked or plugged vacuum hose can cause it. So can clogged passages in the throttle body, but that is usually the cause of insufficient flow, not excessive flow.
The 2 best known types of induction cleaning are Motorvac and BG. Well worth it if it's never been done.
Remove the vacuum hose from it and connect a long piece of hose to it and suck on it.
Open the air cleaner and lift up the intake tube so you can see down it. You will see the MAF sticking out into it. Take a can of CRC MAF cleaner, hook up the straw, and spray the MAF. Give it a few shots with the straw about an inch from it, and let it dry for about 15 minutes. Reassemble.
The oil leakage into the wells is usually cam cover gaskets.
The only ones that mater are the fronts. The rears almost never fail. The front ones are the ones that make adjustments to how the truck runs. rears just report cat failure.
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Did some work on the car this weekend.
1- The left O2 sensor was a snap to swap out. The right side was B*tch, but I got it.
2- Changed the gas filter.
3- Repacked the front wheel bearings.
4- Bled the brakes (was due after 9 years...).
5- Cleaned the MAF.
Had the BG injector cleaning done last week. Seemed to help and while it was at the shop, they detected the PDFE was defective. It was replaced just a few months ago, but was under warranty from NAPA. After replacing it, the CEL has stayed off. Still a slight pinging. maybe the new O2 sensors will help?
Going to replace the following tomorrow:
1- Left side valve cover gasket
2- The COPS
3- Radiator hoses and coolant (hoses are 9 years old...).
1- The left O2 sensor was a snap to swap out. The right side was B*tch, but I got it.
2- Changed the gas filter.
3- Repacked the front wheel bearings.
4- Bled the brakes (was due after 9 years...).
5- Cleaned the MAF.
Had the BG injector cleaning done last week. Seemed to help and while it was at the shop, they detected the PDFE was defective. It was replaced just a few months ago, but was under warranty from NAPA. After replacing it, the CEL has stayed off. Still a slight pinging. maybe the new O2 sensors will help?
Going to replace the following tomorrow:
1- Left side valve cover gasket
2- The COPS
3- Radiator hoses and coolant (hoses are 9 years old...).






