2001 5.4L F-150 4X4 w/ 95,000 miles GVW< 7,700 #'s

Alldata says minimum thickness of my front rotors is 1.09" and one is down to this and another a couple thousands less. Been shopping around for replacements and they (Napa and Raybestos as two examples) both say minimum for theirs is 0.97" and I am confused. The 0.97" is for their OEM replacement rotors not superduper Brembos. Anybody have access to Ford data or other data to help out. I'll even accept opinions cuz I know you all have them and want to share them.

 

Here is what I found on alldata so my geuss would be your looking at the last ones. that or your replacement ones could be telling you when you have to toss them and alldata could be down to min resurface.
F150 Nascar & Lightning 4x2 W/5-M14 Wheel Bolts, W/ 4 Wheel ABS 1.0906 inch (27.70mm)

F150 7700 GVW 4x2 W/Single Rear Wheel, W 8 mounting holes 1.1024 inch (28mm)

F150 7700 GVW 4x2 W/Single Rear Wheel, W RABS, W 4 Wheel ABS, W 7 mounting holes 1.0906 (27.70mm)

F150 4x4 W/ 5-M14 bolts 0.9646 inch (24.50mm)

F150 7700 GVW 4x4 W RABS, W 4 Wheel ABS or RABS, W 7 mounting holes 1.0906 inch (27.70mm)

F150 Exclude Nascar 4x2 W/5-M14 Wheel Bolts, W/ 4 Wheel ABS or RABS 0.9724 inch (24.70mm)

 

You have reiterated what I already had found in Alldata. Perhaps you are correct because the terminology with the replacement parts said "discard." My wandering around the WWW told me that the minimum thickness is caste into the face of the hub. We're back to whether it is minimum thickness of 1.09" to discard or to be able to be turned. (I am correct that turning and refacing are two different things?)

PS. Still wandering the web. Some posts say they run original rotors until they warp without regard to minimum thickness. Some have, allegedly, 150,000 miles on original rotors and three or more pad changes!

PSS. By the way, my brakes are fine.

 

Turning is the process for refacing. So you have the 7700 seris truck? (it has seven lugs) if not you need to be looking at one of the other ones which list what the aftermarket ones are. Unless it is an Nascar then they don't have a list at all.

 

Any shop is going to go by the min thickness stamped on the rotor itself, regardless of what some other book or website says. For them, it's a liability issue and the will not turn them if the turning will take them below the stamped requirement. Yes, it should be pretty easy to get 150,000 miles out of original rotors. I just had my rear rotors turned for the second time at 107,000 while installing new pads. There was plenty left on one side and the other side netted me one more turn. I wont be able to turn them again as it will take it below the stamped specs. But this will easily take me to 150,000 miles.

Sounds like you may be putting way too much thought into this. If the rotors are down to the min thickness stamped on the rotor, regardless of what info you find elsewhere...replace.

 

Thanks guys, here's the wrap-up:

First, to clear up some misconceptions: the symbol < means less than and therefore my truck is the 5-lug F-150 of less than 7,700 #'s (pounds.)

Second, there is nothing stamped on my rotors.

Third, I inquired around and found out that the 1.09" that is usually, not always, stamped on the rotor is the minimum thickness before it cannot be refaced/turned again and the 0.97" is the point where you replace the rotors.

Fourth, I replaced the rotors yesterday. The LF miked at 0.97" and the RF at 1.09" so like the preceding commenter's rear rotors it was time to do it.

Took about two hours and pretty painless as the rotor just sits on the hub and held on by the bolted on tire. Since the first two years of its life were in CA and the remaining in CO it only took two-three good whacks with a sledge hammer to break the rust free. If you live in VT where I grew up there is a very good U-Tube video on how to take the rotor off when a sledge hammer is insufficient. It shows how to use two bolts and four nuts through the caliper mount to break it free. Made sure to put Never Seize on the hub before remounting new rotor and siliconed the CV joint boots while right there.

Today, cuz I'm so lucky, I'm going to remove the transmission pan, replace the filter, drain the torque converter and topped it up with Mervon V. While the pan is off I'll install a B&M drain plug. My F-150 was built in March 2001 so I'm supposed to have a torque converter drain plug but had it been built after I think August it won't. Oh, and draining the transfer case while I'm right there.

Thanks for the feed back you Brother Truckers!