I have a 01 f150 supercrew 4x4 with 160,xxx miles on it. And it has had a 6 inch suspension lift in it since it was new and iam taking the lift out. We have the rear end done and now its time for the front end but we have a problem. The tension is off of the torson bars but they are stuck in the a arms. We tryed pounding and a porta power pushing them out and nothing we even heated the a arm to losen them but they wont come loose. It has been getting soaked in jb 80 and pb blaster for the last 5 days and still wont break loose. Does any one have and ideas on what to do next. We are going to try and get the keys off the bars tomorow and then take the a arm off and leave the bars in them then try to feed the whole assembly over the transmission cross member.

 

I have no idea man. Hope you figure it out.
Just curious though as to why you are taking the lift off? Most people around here, including me, would kill for a 6" lift.

 

You are on the right track. But you may have a more serious problem later. I think most lifts for our trucks require a small amount of metal be cut off the front differential or frame. Do you still have that piece of metal so it can be welded back?

 

Not sure what brand of lift kit you have, but on my 99 Supercab, there was no cutting involved in installing a Fabtech 6" kit.
My torsion bars were rusted into the lower A-arms as well. I removed the keys, and removed/replaced the lower A-arms and torsion bars as an assembly. Not a problem.

 

when i did my lift i just left the bars into the arms and moved as one unit...however you may need to get new bars anyways depending how much you heated them torsion bars are underextreme load and when heatedits suppose to weaken them..

on a side note i cut nothing on my frame for my lift

 

I don't think I can help either, - what year did they shorten up the bars ? 99 ? I have the longer bars on the 98, - I know they shortened them up at some point and PB Blaster worked in my case. To get my ride height right, I had to bounce the front end between adjustments for transfer. I also had to back off a full turn from max to properly align.

But yea, your model year has the shorter bars I believe. So, not sure. ?

 

Everyone is giving me a lot of crap for taking it out. I have been having a lot of problems with leaf springs and its because of the lift kit and iam getting sick of buying costly tires and i need the truck more for hauling my car around. Thats my main reasons for taking it out i also had a parts truck at the farm so i had all of the parts i needed for free. The guy building my car works on everything and he said you could heat the bars and it wont hurt anything and also a couple ford dealers i talked to said they would do the same thing that iam doing which is heating them and trying a porta power. We are going to try getting the keys off right now and then leave the bars on the a arms. Does anyone know if i have to take the steering knucles apart to get the lower ball joint out or will it clear the cv shaft. Thanks for everyone help i will later post some parts for sale that i have left over. It doesnt seem like their is any extra metal to cut or weld on. The lift is a older trailmaster because it doesnt look anything like the new trailmaster lift kits and it has edelbrock extreme travel shocks. Thanks everyone for the help and i will keep posted on any progress i make.

 

the cv shaft will clear but do you have the stock knuckles or lift knuckles?

 

i have stock knuckles the lift comes from the top ball joint a triangle piece thank you very much

 

ok just making sure as far as the torsion keys i know i sprayed them a lot and let them sit then just pound the crap out of them my truck is from michigan so they were rusted pretty good I unbolted the crossmember and just hit the member with the hammer.....eventually they fell off.....my passenger side took about 5 minutes and my drivers about two hours

 

Ok i got the keys off now we just heated them untill they were beat red and them beat them off. They come off easy. The lower ball joint DID NOT CLEAR THE CV SHAFT THOUGH. And it is stock knuckles we are going to just take the upper ball joint out and then hopefully the torson bar will be able to at a angle go over the transmission crossmember.

 

truck is complety back together we are replaceing all the ball joints then doing the alignment.

 

so where is the lift going?

 

The lift is for sale for more info email jkirsch55@hotmail.com its a trailmaster lift kit and iam asking 500 for it it will be around 100 to ship most places in the us