1997 - 2003 F-150

Driver side Power Window

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Old Jun 5, 2009 | 04:12 PM
  #1  
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Driver side Power Window

Got a little problem with the power window on the driver side. As usual, one day it was working great, the next it didn't work. When the button is pushed down, I hear the relay clicking but nothing happens. The passenger side goes up and down just fine. I checked the fuses and the One-Touch-Down relay and they are all good. I even hooked up another motor for troubleshooting and the same thing, down didn't work but pushing up on the switch made the gear turn. I put a meter on the motor connector to test if power was going there and this is what I got:

Down (first detent) roughly 9V
Down (second detent for auto) roughly 9
Up- 12V

After finding a schematic of the power windows I was finally able to see the Generic Electronic Module (GEM) and with all the inputs/outputs. Would the GEM be the culprit to the low voltage not actuating the down side of the motor?

Any help will be greatly appreciated.
 
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Old Jun 7, 2009 | 07:08 AM
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From: >wwOwww<
Sometimes the armature on the electric motor can have a dead spot on it. If you have the interior door panel off, tap the electric motor with something light. Sometimes they'll work after that little vibration. If this works,and it is doing it in the full down position, it will happen again.
 
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Old Jun 7, 2009 | 05:01 PM
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Somehow I don't think that's it. I plugged in a known good motor and the gear didn't even move when I pushed the switch down, but when I pushed the switch up the gear moved.

I appreciate the help though.
 
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Old Jun 7, 2009 | 05:48 PM
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From: >wwOwww<
I don't think it's the gem.
 

Last edited by Tumba; Jun 7, 2009 at 05:54 PM.
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Old Jun 7, 2009 | 05:52 PM
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i re read your post. Sounds like the switch is bad if will only go one way.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2009 | 10:27 AM
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I just had this problem on my 05 Screw yesterday.. the switch was acting up for about 2 days, then it would just not roll the window up.

All of the other windows went up fine and the drivers side window would roll down fine.

I took the switch all apart, it is a series of small plastic clips holding it together.

finally with all of the switch rockers off and the circuit board removed, you can get into the guts of the rocker. the drivers side has two small plastic points that activate the metal contacts. The UP point was worn down and would not activate the metal anymore. There is a spare point in the rocker and can be replaced using the center one.

now my window works like new.
 
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