Hello, my first post, so pls be gentle! I've a 2000 F150, 5.4 Triton w/141K on it. I'll admit I haven't taken care of it as I should but being out of work for 15 months, I had other things on my mind. Anyway, 2 weekends ago, while driving on the freeway, I noticed the truck was hesitating, sputtering, almost like it was running out of gas, but the tank was full. It smoothed out after about 5-10 miles. This morning starting up to go work, it started fine, but idle was a bit rough, and when I got on the raod, the same symtoms occurred, only a lot worse. It seemed as everytime the tranny shifted, it ran rougher. I just started back to work in February, an want to try and keep this truck as long as possible but don't want to sink more than it worth into it either. Any suggestions on what could be wrong or starting to go wrong?? Thank you in advance.

Tony

 

Hi and welcome to the site!

Do you know the last time the fuel filter was replaced?

Is the Check Engine light on?

These symptoms could be caused by a misfire, even it's not bad enough to set a code yet. Do you know when the plugs were last changed? Are the CoPs original? You might want to replace your plugs and CoPs. You can find good quality COPS at reasonable prices at the Uneek and Global Automotive stores on eBay. (I suggest you use this site's search feature and read up on some of the recent discussions of Global and Uneek.) The COPS you need are "DG508"s if I remember correctly. I prefer Motorcraft plugs, but that too is the stuff of Holy Wars. Do some searches on plug replacement and draw your own conclusions.

If you can "force" the misfire and cause the computer to store a code and turn on the CEL, even better. You'll know the cause of the misfire more accurately when the code is read.

 

I bought it used in Oct 06 from a lot, so I don't know the last time the fuel filter was replaced, but the check engine isn't on. It flashed a few times coming to work but didn't stay on. Also, I don't speak much "mechanic" although I know enough to be dangerous! So my next question: what are COPS? And thank you very much for your answer!

 

Hey Tony-- ah, ok. Let's see.... COPS=Coil On Plug. Each spark plug has its own ignition coil sitting on top of the plug. If you wanted to replace them all, you could get a set of eight (or set of ten to have a couple of spares) for something in the neighborhood of a hundred bucks from the eBay sellers I mentioned. Since you have to get all the way to the plugs to replace the COPs, you'd want to replace the plugs at the same time.

I believe that a flashing check engine light means a misfire that's dumping unburned fuel into the exhaust to the degree that if it were prolonged, it could ruin the catalytic converter.

Since the truck is new to you with that many miles on it, you may want to do a little bit of a tune-up on it and replace the spark plugs and COPS and change the air and fuel filters. Do you do your own maintenance?

 

Thanks for the explaination. The truck had 88K on it when I bought it, the rest are mine including driving here to Atlanta from Tucson, AZ. I can do the simple stuff like oil and filters, although I've never replaced the fuel filter on this truck before. I've been reading around in here on the fuel filter. How tough is it to change the COPS? Is the manual or the threads in here offer better explainations or take it to a shop?? And I take it as you directing me towards eBay for them that OEM & auto parts stores are really "proud" of them, huh?

 

I think the replacement of COPs and plugs on these motors is within the ability of a reasonably skilled do-it-yourself mechanic. There is a HOWTO around here somewhere with clear instructions. I used it when I changed mine and had no problems. If you're searching, make sure you're reading about 97-03 plug replacement, not 04 and up... that's a completely different story! I'll see if I can find a link to the howto I used after I post this.

The fuel filter is pretty easy, too. You'll need the connector release tool and a little bit of patience, but it will pop right off as soon as you get the idea.

Hehe... check the price of the SETS of 8 or 10 on eBay and then price ONE coil at the dealer. You'll see why Global and Uneek are the suppliers of choice for most folks around here!

 

The HOWTO: http://mattstruck.com/sparkplugs/sparkplugs.html

This howto uses anti-seize compound on the plug threads. The merits of this have been discussed here at length. The prevailing opinion now seems to be against the use of anti-seize. I suggest doing a search then make your own decision after reading the discussions.

 

You also want to torque the plugs to 28 ft/lb to prevent blowout. The stock specs are 15 ft/lb and the engine has a history of plug loosening and blowout, the heads only have 4 threads.

 

Yes, good point. This info:

Q: Why do you prefer 28-32 foot lbs torque instead of the factory specification?

A: Over the past few years we have heard from many of our customers that they tightened their plugs to the correct torque but they still came loose. We worked with over 10 Ford Certified Master Mechanics and concluded that 30 foot lbs of torque would be satisfactory. We have been using 28-32 foot lbs of torque for many years and have never had one come loose or strip out. To verify that we would not damage the original threads we used a test cylinder head with good factory threads we applied over 100 foot lbs of torque to the spark plug without any failure.

is from http://www.blownoutsparkplug.com/faqs.htm

The spark plug blowout issue shouldn't dissuade you from replacing the plugs yourself, especially now that the cause is better understood.

 

hey change your fuel filter, 150k on my oem and i am still stzying sorry to her.


it was clean when i put it in there,
the process is kinda hard to explain, but you have to have the right tool, go rent one if you dont want to buy a set, i dont know exactly what it wojuld cost to rent a set or buy a set, but it is worth it, i only paid like 10$ for my filter but i dont think it was oem, it works though,
listen to these guys, most of them know what they are doing.

 

If you bought it with 88k and now it has 141k you are way overdue for a fuel filter change. That needs to be done every 30k at the least. And your overdue for a tune up. As stated in previous post use only motorcraft platinum plugs. Get the DG508 COP's from Global or Uneek. Use the search function there are alot of threads on here. You may want to plan on changing the front o2's as well mine started running flakey and misfiring about six months after I did the tune up on mine the cel flashed several times but it will do that with a low level misfire. Mine finally locked in an o2 heater circuit failure. These things are not that difficult to do on your own and there are alot of guy's on here that will help you. Use the search function it is your friend.

 

Man that is shameful. :o

 

yea i know, i asked my dad that mornig if he remebered the last time he changed it, and He goes, "well, i never did, i was never told when to/and i didnt really care", so i was like WTF i will BRB with a filter, and going to my grandfathers for the tool, i changed it and showed him the gas, and he said oh Sh@t, good thing it is'nt mine anymore, so i said yea good thing, now i have to change the filter on his diesel. So i am probally going to change it again in another couple thousand.

 

If it's never been changed then I'm suprised it didn't stop up or come appart on you. I always get mine changed when I get the tranny serviced about every 15k or every other year before summer. Mine only gets driven on the weekends now towing the toy and running to east Texas checking on the folks so it gets service more by time cycle than mileage. So now you're the official fuel filter expert of the family.

 

Thannks to you all for your answers and replies. I did channge the oil and fuel filter after work yesterday, and I think I'm going to step out on faith and attempt the plug and coil replacement. The check engine light came on on the way home and I stopped at autozone to have it chaecked. It came back as "#4 cylinder misfire". Another question on the plugs: will I need a torque wrench to ensure their tightened to specs? And any other "gotchas" to be aware of? Thanks again for all of your help.