Running good? Great! Mines running good too. It's under fire tho,- Damn birds around here think it's a target! She needs a wash, then I have to find a safe place until I make more room in the shop

 

Ya know, one of these days, someone is going to do a search and find this thread and wonder.......who the heck are these 2 clowns talking about idle nonsense on a F150 forum.

Or......someone will google bulging disc or pysatic nerve and it will bring them to this site. Wait till they find out we can't fix their backs but definately can help them fix their Fords. Now that's funny, I don't care who you are...

 

I'm so cheap I only paid $.35 more than you did for injectors shipped and rebuilt already.

Finally got her back together tonight, yeah I'm slow, rather I have lots of interruptions with kids and events. Started it up and it's doing it learning with the seeming miss, but I unplugged all the injectors one at a time and the engine changes to a more pronounced miss... It seemed to smooth out after a bit, but still not quite there, I only let it run for about 5-10 min. Anyone know how long it takes for the computer to learn what it needs too?

I have 2 other questions, as this engine was a bit more than I'm used too. My forte has been 4 bangers with turbo. 1. Does it matter if I use the green antifreeze or do I need to pay an stealer for the ford stuff? I've read mixed posts, but haven't seen anything definitive.

And 2. Probably the most concerning for me at the moment... keep in mind the computer is still learning.... When I tap the throttle pretty good in park there is a significant delay with an air swoosh sound prior to rev up. Will this go away after the computer learns or should I be looking for something to fix here?

FYI, my elbow in the back of the intake was my check engine codes, and I didn't have an intake leak at the gaskets. But it's don't now anyway, and I have lots of new stuff, can't wait to get it out on the road.

 

You really need to make sure everything is hooked up properly, get some premium gas in it and take a cruise. Once you feel that everything is running pretty good, go find a place and drive it like you stole it. Then report back.

 

The check engine light came back on faster than before I fixed the elbow in the back. All the cylinders are firing, at least at idle anyway. If I have a miss yet, I can't really tell. So that problem is fixed, but this damn check engine light is making a flat spot in my forehead from banging it against the wall... Same codes, just faster to come on. P0174 is illuminating the light and P0171 is pending... I drove all of maybe 20 miles max. The fuel trims seem to be fine at at idle, they hang aroun -3% short term, and -10% long term. When I get any kind of load and I mean just even lightly accelerating on a flat stretch. the long terms go to max out at 25% and the shorts I've seen as high as 38%, I admit I have to get some carb cleaner and try to spray around, but being that I'm only lean at load, I don't have high hopes of finding an intake leak. There's one other thing yet to fix on this damn money pit and that is the muffler...Someone will have to explain and be very convincing how a muffler causes and engine to be lean, when I know people put straight pipes on vehicles without issue. I thought for sure that elbow was the problem, once I had it out and seen it, based on all the posts about it.

 

Symptoms are very similar to this guy's....
https://www.f150online.com/forums/v8...n-twist-4.html
Although I haven't tested everything he has yet. I remember seeing the evap line by the frame looked like it would just fall apart if you looked at it wrong. I'll be testing the fuel pressure, and reading the maf air flow, and seing if I can get my vac guage hooked up to the egr... tomorrow.... maybe.

 

Yea ,you gottuh bad leak somewhere that's bing missed.

Disconnect vapor line under the hood. Tho a vacuum plug on/ top port of that elbow -

Re boot after atleast 20 minutes without battery connect.

This eliminates the EVAP as a posibility.

PCV or intake gaskets. Your air intake/IAV line/Breather line can't leak either.

 

Just tried plugging the line on the top of the throttle body, but left the other end going to the evap system unplugged took a trip around the block (5 miles)and got the P0174 code pending again. I logged some similar data to see if I can see a difference but after the code pending I don't have much hope of seeing anything. I'll have to try plugging the other end too. That'll have to wait as well as other tests as Easter dinner's about to start.

brand new on those.

 

Keep in mind I checked everywhere for a vacuum leak, intake leak etc. Then I said the heck with it and my wife ran to the Dealership and bought the assembly.
While my wife ran to the dealership I tore apart the MAF once again and cleaned it for the heck of it then installed the PCV Assembly. I am sure the MAF was clean and the PCV Assembly cured my problem.

Other than that, you may have to do some more searching on this site to see if anyone else found a cause and repair for their problem. Been through your nightmare.
Now I have to fix my step-sons p0171/174 on his 02 4.0L V6 Ranger.
Can hardly wait for that. I will go through his truck using the same checks etc.

 

IAC Gasket/IAT Grommet/ Breather assembly/ Air intake filter seal/Air Intake clamps stripped (Too loose) /IAC Line/ Elbow to Manifold Gasket must be a thickened type gasket and tightened in sequence (They can leak here)/ MAF Oring may be broke.
___________________________________

Tjk - The 4.0's like to leak @ the MAF cover. Those plastic covers break/crack on those 4.0's. An explorer I worked on had a 1/8" hole/ top of the MAF sensor itself lol.

 

Thanks for the heads up Brew. I need to steal his truck from him one day so I can go through it.
He asked to borrow mine for a day or two while I work on his.
My response, "are you out of your mind" . He's 19 and beats the snot out of his, what would make him think he is going to get his hands on mine. I just laughed and so did he.

 

Idk, sounds like he mis counted his browny points. He was going for the Butt I'm family service - Maybe the -"feel sorry for me" loaner program. - Formally known as the "Let me use and abuse you" deal.

Can't blame them for tryin.

 

Started trying to do some searching on this again. I started a process of elimination. First tried the hose on the top (evap), then tried pcv/valve cover connections... neither helped... but now I can hear an audible whistle while driving down the road at certain times (ah ha a vacuum leak) but where and it's a bit difficult being under the hood at 55 mph with a load placed on the engine. hmmmmm. guess I'll just keep on with my elimination process. On the way into work today, I narrowed the whistle down to 34% or so throttle and around 1600 rpm. RPM's or throttle much more or less and it goes away. Base throttle is 18%... does that sound right? My rice burner is 9% I think. Almost to work and I also hear at a slightly elevated volume the same whistle, but it's at 42% or so throttle and 2400 rpms or so. And again throttle much more or less and the sound goes away. This information doesn't help me find the leak, but thought it was noteworthy. I'll eliminate something else for my way home and see if anything changes.

 

jbrew, in this post <maf o-ring link> you mention a maf o-ring to check. I just tore my air box out and apart and I don't see any sign of an o-ring anywhere let alone a broken one. Is there any pictures or exploded views you or someone can point my to in order to locate this o-ring?

I am going to put a seal of some sort between the air filter and the plastic plate the maf mounts to as a precuation... It seems my cheap fram filter may be a bit undersized and if not lined up perfectly, I may see a possible way for air to bypass the maf at this location. This is my next elimination step. EGR and IAV will be next.

 

That sucks!! - Yea, you found the problem I bet.