steering wheel
#5
Having just changed mine tonight, I can tell you..
It is nice to have but is not REQUIRED. The procedure is below:
1. Use a 1/4" drive 8mm socket, and a 1" extension to remove the negative battery cable.
2. Wait 15-20 minutes (Have a beer, smoke a cig, pass the time).
3. Use a small flat bladed screwdriver and wrap the tip of it in black electrical tape. Take said screwdriver and use it to pry off the two caps on either side of the wheel, being careful not to scratch the old one (especially if you plan to sell it on eBay like me).
4. Use the same 1/4" drive 8 mm socket to remove the two bolts on either side of the airbag. These are set at a slightly "angled back" angle, so be careful and conscientious when removing, so that you don't drop them inside the wheel.
5. Gently pull the airbag/clockspring/horn unit away from the steering wheel. You will see three electrical connections. Two are at the top and one is at the bottom, disconnect all three, and set the unit aside.
6. Use a 3/8" drive Torx T45 socket to remove the center bolt from the wheel and set it aside.
7. Now, put your foot on the brake and use it for leverage, and pull firmly on the wheel (straight out), do NOT wiggle it up or down as damage to the splined steering shaft can occur. ( I have found this to be the easiest way to remove the wheel without the use of a steering wheel/gear puller).
8. Installation is the reverse of removal.
Here's a pic of the finished product with my FX4 leather wrapped steering wheel, and my existing STX airbag in place. Make sure that when you put the steering wheel back on, it goes on in the same position as the one you took off, and with no resistance (it should just slip right on).
If you have any questions at all, please let me know and I will be happy to answer them. Next up, FX4 instrument cluster.. for which I will have to remove the wheel again. I'll be a seasoned pro by then
It is nice to have but is not REQUIRED. The procedure is below:
1. Use a 1/4" drive 8mm socket, and a 1" extension to remove the negative battery cable.
2. Wait 15-20 minutes (Have a beer, smoke a cig, pass the time).
3. Use a small flat bladed screwdriver and wrap the tip of it in black electrical tape. Take said screwdriver and use it to pry off the two caps on either side of the wheel, being careful not to scratch the old one (especially if you plan to sell it on eBay like me).
4. Use the same 1/4" drive 8 mm socket to remove the two bolts on either side of the airbag. These are set at a slightly "angled back" angle, so be careful and conscientious when removing, so that you don't drop them inside the wheel.
5. Gently pull the airbag/clockspring/horn unit away from the steering wheel. You will see three electrical connections. Two are at the top and one is at the bottom, disconnect all three, and set the unit aside.
6. Use a 3/8" drive Torx T45 socket to remove the center bolt from the wheel and set it aside.
7. Now, put your foot on the brake and use it for leverage, and pull firmly on the wheel (straight out), do NOT wiggle it up or down as damage to the splined steering shaft can occur. ( I have found this to be the easiest way to remove the wheel without the use of a steering wheel/gear puller).
8. Installation is the reverse of removal.
Here's a pic of the finished product with my FX4 leather wrapped steering wheel, and my existing STX airbag in place. Make sure that when you put the steering wheel back on, it goes on in the same position as the one you took off, and with no resistance (it should just slip right on).
If you have any questions at all, please let me know and I will be happy to answer them. Next up, FX4 instrument cluster.. for which I will have to remove the wheel again. I'll be a seasoned pro by then
#6
#7
I know for a fact I used a T45, because I tried a T47, and T50 first, both were too big, but over all I am satisfied with the ease of the install. Maybe on the XLT the bolt is bigger? What M/Y is your truck, maybe that is different...who knows?
EDIT: Nevermind I see that you have an '05 as well. And now that I think about it, the T45 was a little bit loose in there, but it worked. It just takes some experimenting.
EDIT: Nevermind I see that you have an '05 as well. And now that I think about it, the T45 was a little bit loose in there, but it worked. It just takes some experimenting.
Trending Topics
#8
#9
#10
You can yank a cluste out of one of these things faster than you can do the wheel. And you know how easy that was.
If anyone wants to do it, quick instructions.
Pull battery cable. Don't bother to wait, as it will run down by the time you get to where it matters.
Lower the tilt wheel.
Remove the two lower bolts on the drivers kick panel.(Under the steering wheel).
It’s clipped at the top. Set it where it won’t get scratched.
Remove the two bolts that hold on the cowl.
Big curved part of dash that covers the top of the drivers side of dash.
The cowl pulls up and towards you as you unclip it and unhook it at the area near the vent. Sounds hard, but after you do it, it’s remarkably easy. Set it where it won’t get scratched.
Tricky part here, the gear selector thing pulls out the bottom, clipped in on each side. My hands are too thick so it’s hard to do for me. I have to release one side, then the other, and then work the PRND2L piece down. Not too hard, just no room to work. Goes back in easier.
Unlatch the two wire harness, toggle the locks back and they pop off.
Undo the last two bolts, the ones on the bottom of the IP.
Take out IP.
If anyone wants to do it, quick instructions.
Pull battery cable. Don't bother to wait, as it will run down by the time you get to where it matters.
Lower the tilt wheel.
Remove the two lower bolts on the drivers kick panel.(Under the steering wheel).
It’s clipped at the top. Set it where it won’t get scratched.
Remove the two bolts that hold on the cowl.
Big curved part of dash that covers the top of the drivers side of dash.
The cowl pulls up and towards you as you unclip it and unhook it at the area near the vent. Sounds hard, but after you do it, it’s remarkably easy. Set it where it won’t get scratched.
Tricky part here, the gear selector thing pulls out the bottom, clipped in on each side. My hands are too thick so it’s hard to do for me. I have to release one side, then the other, and then work the PRND2L piece down. Not too hard, just no room to work. Goes back in easier.
Unlatch the two wire harness, toggle the locks back and they pop off.
Undo the last two bolts, the ones on the bottom of the IP.
Take out IP.
#12
Any time you unplug the airbag, you need to cut the power by unhooking one of your battery cables (negative is easiest). You need to wait for at least 10 minutes before unpluging the airbag from the steering wheel to help prevent a possible deployment. You can risk it if you want, but 10 minutes of waiting sure beats the hell of having to buy a new airbag, and going to the emergency room because it deployed in your face and broke your nose!
#14
#15
ChrisAdams, I asked my dad (ford mechanic of 20 years) and he told me 10 minutes, he didn't mention any other way to do it. When you are a flat rate employee though, 5 or 10 minutes is too long. He said he had done a few while in a real hurry (impatient customers who refuse to wait any longer) with the battery still connected.