Any opinions on these? What would be a better way to go?

http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/ebc/suv_truck.jsp

Also, would you recommend doing your own front brake job or having them professionally done for $200, using the brake pads they supply? This includes all the other parts and a fluid change.

 

Well one thing to remember is that any more aggressive pad compound will help stop you better but at the price of eating rotors faster.

It is a trade off. One that most are going to accept, especially since rotors seem to warp easily on some of the newer F150s.

For do it yourself. If you have to ask, take it to someone.

 

I've done pad replacements before myself, but does a complete "brake job" involve replacing anything else, bleeding system, etc.?

 

For new pads always get new rotors or have your old ones turned otherwise the pads may glaze and not seat properly.

Complete brake job would mean lubricating all points that need lubrication such as where rear shoes rub on backing plates, sliding retainers on front calipers, etc. And syphoning off the old fluid in your brake reservoir, replacing with new, bleeding the brakes starting at the farthest wheel from the master cylinder and going to the closest. Keep topping up the reservoir as you do each wheel.

Basically - have an assistant pump the pedal a few times, hold it down pretty good. Release the bleeder valve in the wheel cylinder/caliper until brake pedal drops to floor. Close valve. Have assistant pump again, same procedure. Pedal must not move up from floor before you close valve or air will be introduced. Use fish tank air line off bleeder nipple into a glass. Keep pumping/opening bleeder until you see fresh fluid coming out. Then do next wheel. Remember - keep topping up reservoir. If it runs dry you have just introduced air into the whole system- major pain.