Brake calipers shot or...?
#1
04-18-2005, 12:54 AM
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Brake calipers shot or...?
I have a 98 F150 XLT, 4.6L, 2WD. Front: DISC. Rear: DRUM.
I took it in for inspection and registration, but it failed inspection due to the front tires not rotating freely. Apparently, the calipers aren't releasing or pulling back from from the pads after applying the brakes. I never really noticed this, but on the way home after the inspection I was stopped at a light and noticed smoke coming from the front left and right. They were extremely hot when I got home.
Since then, I bought new brake pads and shoes. Replaced all the brake fluid. Had the rotors resurfaced. Removed the calipers- checked for damage, cleaned and lubed the caliper slides, cleaned the caliper tension spriing, cleaned the caliper brake pad slides, bled the system and I still have the problem.
I can insert a screw driver to push the caliper back and see that the piston works. I know the brake lines are good or not crushed because I had good flow when I flushed the system out with new brake fluid.
Any ideas?
I could really use some help. I am stationed (US ARMY) in Germany where Ford trucks are not very common and they rape you for parts and labor. Thanks!
I took it in for inspection and registration, but it failed inspection due to the front tires not rotating freely. Apparently, the calipers aren't releasing or pulling back from from the pads after applying the brakes. I never really noticed this, but on the way home after the inspection I was stopped at a light and noticed smoke coming from the front left and right. They were extremely hot when I got home.
Since then, I bought new brake pads and shoes. Replaced all the brake fluid. Had the rotors resurfaced. Removed the calipers- checked for damage, cleaned and lubed the caliper slides, cleaned the caliper tension spriing, cleaned the caliper brake pad slides, bled the system and I still have the problem.
I can insert a screw driver to push the caliper back and see that the piston works. I know the brake lines are good or not crushed because I had good flow when I flushed the system out with new brake fluid.
Any ideas?
I could really use some help. I am stationed (US ARMY) in Germany where Ford trucks are not very common and they rape you for parts and labor. Thanks!
#2
04-18-2005, 11:27 AM
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#3
04-18-2005, 11:38 AM
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Guten tag!
If the front of your brake system is holding pressure, you may have flexible brake hoses that are checking internally (which obviously would require replacement). By that, I mean that the hoses may be acting as a check valve-letting fluid pass to the caliper, but not letting it return.
You could check the pressure in the system at the caliper if you have access to a pressure tester setup for the brakes.
It is possible, although not as likely, that the master cylinder is causing the problem.
If you can't figure it out fairly soon, just take it in and have a shop diagnose it. You don't want to wait until your rotors are wasted.
SL
P.S. Send some putinschnitzel and veizen this way!
If the front of your brake system is holding pressure, you may have flexible brake hoses that are checking internally (which obviously would require replacement). By that, I mean that the hoses may be acting as a check valve-letting fluid pass to the caliper, but not letting it return.
You could check the pressure in the system at the caliper if you have access to a pressure tester setup for the brakes.
It is possible, although not as likely, that the master cylinder is causing the problem.
If you can't figure it out fairly soon, just take it in and have a shop diagnose it. You don't want to wait until your rotors are wasted.
SL
P.S. Send some putinschnitzel and veizen this way!
Last edited by snappylips; 04-18-2005 at 11:42 AM.
#4
04-19-2005, 04:52 AM
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#5
04-19-2005, 02:31 PM
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Royal,
If the fluid is under pressure to the front only try diagnosing it this way.
with the truck up on stands and the brakes dragging release fluid pressure at the master cylinder. If they both release the problem is in your master cylinder.
If they don't release move from the master cylinder to the next junction towards the front brakes. Should be the prop. valve. Crack the line there. If they release the problem is in the prop. valve.
If they don't move down once more. ABS unit or a T (the brake line split to go to both side) and crack the line again.If they release the problem is in the ABS unit or the T junction.
If they still don't move to the hose connection and crack the connection. If it release it is in the steel lines before the hoses.
If it doesn't go to the bleeders and crack them. If it release it is the hoses. If not the calipers are all that is left.
Crack them open as quickly as possible. Just enough to release the pressure but not any longer than needed or you let air in.
Reapply the brakes after each attempt to duplicate thr dragging.
If the rears are also dragging you should check the brake booster. Let me know it is real simple also.
Hydraulic pressure is amazing stuff. The leverage pushing the brake fluid to the calipers is all on the master cylinder side. The small pistons in the master cylinder are easier to depress than the large ones at the calipers. Just because you have good flow of fluid while bleeding does not rule out a crushed steel line. The extra "leverage" on the master cylinder side will litteraly open up the restiction and flow fluid. However it will close and not let fluid thru the other way as there is nothing pushing it back except for the rubber dust boot around the caliper piston.
Sorry for the long post but I would hate to see one of america's finest waste money on uneeded parts.
Good luck and if you have any question let us know.
Stay safe and God be with you.
Ach to lieber mine a hairy. Three years of German and thats all I remeber.
If the fluid is under pressure to the front only try diagnosing it this way.
with the truck up on stands and the brakes dragging release fluid pressure at the master cylinder. If they both release the problem is in your master cylinder.
If they don't release move from the master cylinder to the next junction towards the front brakes. Should be the prop. valve. Crack the line there. If they release the problem is in the prop. valve.
If they don't move down once more. ABS unit or a T (the brake line split to go to both side) and crack the line again.If they release the problem is in the ABS unit or the T junction.
If they still don't move to the hose connection and crack the connection. If it release it is in the steel lines before the hoses.
If it doesn't go to the bleeders and crack them. If it release it is the hoses. If not the calipers are all that is left.
Crack them open as quickly as possible. Just enough to release the pressure but not any longer than needed or you let air in.
Reapply the brakes after each attempt to duplicate thr dragging.
If the rears are also dragging you should check the brake booster. Let me know it is real simple also.
I know the brake lines are good or not crushed because I had good flow when I flushed the system out with new brake fluid
Sorry for the long post but I would hate to see one of america's finest waste money on uneeded parts.
Good luck and if you have any question let us know.
Stay safe and God be with you.
Ach to lieber mine a hairy. Three years of German and thats all I remeber.