Old Symptoms:
P0172, P0175
About a year ago I bought a 2001 F-250 that was sitting for 6 years and now has 110,000 miles on it. I need it for work at my small business daily. About four months ago, it started lightly surging at idle and major loss of power when under load and warm. There is even more of a loss of power under heavy load and when engine is warm. It used to take 1+ hour for problem to easily reveal itself. Brought it to the mechanic and they hooked up a mode 6 scanner to it and could not detect anything wrong with it except a coil pack and what they described as a vacuum line that was disconnected. This vacuum line could actually have been the DPFE hose described in the issue below. So I drove it around after engine was hot and it did it. Engine has major lack of power. When you get it up to cruising speed it is even more noticeable.

It almost feels like the transmission is slipping but it’s not. It’s the motor because when you put the motor in neutral and rev it up while cruising, or even at idle if engine is warm enough, it just sputters and falls on its face. It has no power at all. Even with the mode 6 scanner connected the mechanic said all the o2 sensors are looking good along with the other values the mode 6 scanner can see. They were not seeing anything wrong, even though we could feel the problem occurring. The problem happens mostly when it is warm, but I can notice a significant power loss even when the engine is cold.

The problem has gotten worse in the last two months since it was at the mechanic. The major loss of power and inability to accelerate occurs much earlier in the engines running time. It happens sometimes when I just start it up. I feel something must be clogged because the other day when I was giving it a heavy acceleration out of frustration, the DPFE hose to EGR Tube popped off. This may be the hose the mechanic described as having to reattach. In this case there was an extremely loud air rushing noise and when inspecting the hose, it was completely missing. BOTH connections of the hose popped off and the hose was gone.

Parts My Friends and I Have Changed Since I’ve Owned the Truck
Replaced fuel pump with OEM model
Replaced fuel filter
Replaced battery
Replaced alternator
Replaced all spark plugs and the coil on plug that was bad
Replaced air filter
Replaced oil and filter

Codes and Parts Changed for Recent Issue Described Above
Codes Thrown: P0172, P0175
Replaced Mass Air Flow Sensor
Replaced Air Filter

Codes and Parts Changed After New Loud Air Rushing Noise
Codes Thrown: P0172, P0175, P1405
Replaced Mass Air Flow Sensor Again to verify part was non-defective
Tested EGR Valve and it appears to be working same as a brand new one while sucking on it with a hose.
Replaced Fuel pressure valve
Replaced missing DPFE hose with a new hose and it blew off again while under heavy load on a test drive
Cleared Codes

Symptoms After Performing Above Tasks
Extremely rough, surging idle. Sounds like the truck wants to die and not stay running.
Took truck for test drive and within a mile of heavy acceleration the hose popped off again.
Maybe something is clogged. Tomorrow we are going to try and stick a piece of wire, or blow air into where the hose keeps popping off.

Another post suggested that it could be the DPFE sensor. We could try changing that tomorrow and see what happens. Anyone have any ideas on what to do? I am really in need of the truck for Monday morning.

Please help, this is important and I will answer ASAP. I really appreciate anything you guys can do.

I found a thread about the DPFE hoses popping off and they thought it could be the clogged cat or mufflers, but changing them didn't fix their issue.

DPFE Hose & Clogged Cats Problem

If my catalytic converters and mufflers are plugged up, do you guys have any sites you recommend getting them cheap?

Could it be possible the DPFE sensor is bad and causing the issue?

It is one of the hoses from the DFPE Sensor To The EGR Tube that keeps blowing off. The Mechanic used their code 6 scanner and determined that the catalytic converters are flowing fine and they are not clogged.





Thanks.

 

Yea, I don't think it's the DPFE, rather, the orifice is plugged IMO. The obstruction is there most likley, - otherwise, you would be blowing both upstream and downstream hoses. Well, there could be another senerio, but I'm going with that for now.

I wouldn't try to clamp that hose, - just in case you were thinking of it. It'll just burn off. Need some automotive draino lol.

If you want to try it without dismantling, -I'd try the wire thing you mentioned. Bend 3/8 of the wire tip about 10-15 degrees. Whatever you can so it's still easy to move thru the downstream pipe easily. Shove it thru the downstream, the bent part of the wire will work as a guide by twisting the wire. Once you get to the orifice, the bent part of the will assist in centering in the orifice as well.

Other than that, you can break it loose from the EGR valve and go that route. You'll probably need a wrench and a cheater pipe. Once it's loose, the nut will spin off freely by hand. Compressed air is okay as long as it's not routed or re-routed to the valve itself. It'll blow the diaphragm.

That's all I got.

Oh, once the O2's read rich, it's pretty well caked and cooked. You can try saving it by using a strong chemical, such as carb cleaner, BUT, you absolutely need compressed for that procedure. You hit it w/cleaner and then quickly blow it out... a few times until most of the crap is removed.

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Yea, the EGR manifold connects rust inside an out. Rust chips and moisture can get sucked up to the orifice every time the valve opens at cruising speeds. Overtime, it can plug. It can get really bad if you don't drive the truck often, but when you do, it's just for a short time, not totally burning the moisture off.

 

BTW- The EGR tube is a high grade of stainless. The orifice is not. Yea, brilliant ehh.

 

Suurrreeee you will.