2001 F150 Will Crank But Not Start
#17
Well I installed the new cam sensor & it would not start! I need to get a new battery, It doesn't seem to be great with all this starting, I have to keep charging it & it seems it should do better, so i'll spend the $ even if it's not the problem now. It wont hurt to have a new battery. I watch all the dash lights & none were on or flashing while I tried to start it. I can't locate the crank sensor does this year (2001) have both the cam & crank sensors? I'll keep you posted, I don't know which way to go if the battery dosn't make a difference. I'll have to get it to a ford garage I suppose!
#20
#21
You don't need to unhook the a/c lines or anything, it comes off pretty easily and the lines are flexible. There are 4 bolts holding it on with the heads all towards the tire, I think you can get at them from underneath but if you take the tire off and the fender liner out (4 or 5 screws and a couple push clips) they are easy to get at. The bolts thread in quite a ways, so you might even be able to just back them out far enough without taking it completely off.
#22
#23
It's faster and less of a PITA to drop the tank to change out the pump IMO. With a lift/hoist it may be easier removing the bed, -not many of us have one in the garage lol.
Iduno, I pulled my pump tp clean it and it went fairly quick.
You could price a pump @ Rock Auto. I think your estimate is a little high personally. I can check, -give me 3 minutes.
Never mind I have it right here. - From Ford Service ~
Fuel Pump $ 356.83
Labor ~
Test - 0.5 hrs
Replace - 2.2 hrs.
Call another Dealer!!! They are high!
Iduno, I pulled my pump tp clean it and it went fairly quick.
You could price a pump @ Rock Auto. I think your estimate is a little high personally. I can check, -give me 3 minutes.
Never mind I have it right here. - From Ford Service ~
Fuel Pump $ 356.83
Labor ~
Test - 0.5 hrs
Replace - 2.2 hrs.
Call another Dealer!!! They are high!
#24
To heck with that price, I bought a 190lph or 255lph (can't remember) from Troyer for I think $100 and put it in myself without a hoist. Its a big heavy tank to deal with, but doable. You just have be be aware of things that are hooked up on top of the tank (filler, vent hose, wiring) as you start to lower it.
#25
Right! Easy, - had half a tank a fuel in mine when I had it down last. Two floor jacks helps as well, but one will work.
Like I said , price a stocker or whatever at Rock Auto. Their pretty good to deal with, at least you can get a ballpark on a fair price from their site. Pick up a Haynes manual, they have a step by step I believe. You can do it yourself quite a bit cheaper.
Good Luck
Like I said , price a stocker or whatever at Rock Auto. Their pretty good to deal with, at least you can get a ballpark on a fair price from their site. Pick up a Haynes manual, they have a step by step I believe. You can do it yourself quite a bit cheaper.
Good Luck
#26
I'm going to do it myself (for a lot less $$$$), just have to decide to drop the tank or pull the bed, I have a motorcycle jack that might work pritty good & I also have a hydraulic floor jack so between the two I should be ok. I really don't have the room to pull the bed in my garage so I'll look at dropping the tank first! Thanks for all & I'll keep you posted.
#27
#28
IT'S RUNNING!!!!! It was the Fuel Pump (after paying the dealer $170 I figured I'd listen to them). I had changed the battery, & the Cam Sensor. So I dropped the tank, changed the Pump ($189 with new sending unit & strainer @ ORielly's) I broke off the Tank Pressure Sensor trying to get the wires off, it snapped like glass from age, called all around & everyone said Its a dealer part for $120!!! After getting the right part number from 1 of the dealers, I found it at silverstatefordparts.com online for $65 with shipping the only place I found a listing. & now she runs great!! Go Figure!! On a side note What a job to drop the tank!! Getting at the hoses was not fun at all! but I do think it was easier than pulling the bed!????
#29
Similar experience
My '01 5.4L wouldn't start when hot - if I let it sit for 90 minutes it would start after some cranking. Symptoms getting worse over time. 139,000 miles.
I thought it might be fuel pump (based on similar symptoms on a completely different vehicle long ago but one with an electric fuel pump in the tank) and dealer said yup, no fuel pressure at the fuel rail. $770 total, new pump and labor. Ford dealer claimed pump is new Ford OEM pump, not a rebuilt. Don't know how I'll ever know, I did ask for the old pump.
Now I've got a screaming air conditioning compressor bearing (I think), coming from lower passenger side front of engine.
It seems that at 10 years and ~150,000 miles these V8 power accessories all start going bad. I suspect alternator and power steering pump won't be far behind.
I have already had to replace radiator and heater core. Needs bushings on front suspension / steering as well - they squeak like heck.
I don't think there's anything special about these "built ford tough" trucks - they're no different from any other vehicle, time and wear means costly repairs.
I thought it might be fuel pump (based on similar symptoms on a completely different vehicle long ago but one with an electric fuel pump in the tank) and dealer said yup, no fuel pressure at the fuel rail. $770 total, new pump and labor. Ford dealer claimed pump is new Ford OEM pump, not a rebuilt. Don't know how I'll ever know, I did ask for the old pump.
Now I've got a screaming air conditioning compressor bearing (I think), coming from lower passenger side front of engine.
It seems that at 10 years and ~150,000 miles these V8 power accessories all start going bad. I suspect alternator and power steering pump won't be far behind.
I have already had to replace radiator and heater core. Needs bushings on front suspension / steering as well - they squeak like heck.
I don't think there's anything special about these "built ford tough" trucks - they're no different from any other vehicle, time and wear means costly repairs.