Dear WVtrucker read any Honda Auto, and Motorcycle Owners Manual, Honda says that you MUST use Honda Brand Anti Freeze, or ur warranty will be void, and Honda says the CRUSHED GLASS they use in anti freeze caused seal failure in their cooling systems, AND Cummings Diesel says the same thing, Honda Brand, and anti freeze approved for Cummings Diesel Engines contain NO CRUSHED GLASS. Yes the glass is crushed in very small micron size, but it still causes damage to shaft seals, and thermostat wiper seals, causing the thermostat to jam from opening. Ur a Trucker u drive a rig, you should know about Cummings Diesel Engine Anti Freeze Requirement.

 

Well, I will check on that. I find it quite interesting that glass would be a corrosion inhibitor. By the way what part of I am a chemist made you think I drive a truck? How many chemist-truck driver double threats do you know? Anyway could you site a specific source? I am just intrigued by this and am always interested in learning new things. Nothing more nothing less in this case.

 

Dear WVtrucker I didnt mean any disrespect, I own a Honda, and the specs in the owners manual says to only use Honda Brand Anti Freeze, then I have a friend that owns a newer Honda Motorcycle, and he was sent an official letter from Honda informing him about crushed glass contained in anti freeze is causing cooling system problems, and was told to only use Honda Brand Anti Freeze cause it don't contain crushed glass. When I went to my local Honda Dealer to purchace a gallon of Honda Anti Freeze, I flipped out cause they wanted $22 a gallon, then I was told I could also use the Cummings Diesel spec anti freeze, it don't contain crushed glass either. The only brand I could find with a Cummings Diesel Spec is the "Peak Brand" I talked to my Honda Dealer and thats what he told me, he said the crushed glass gets in the shaft seals, like a water pump and eats them out, and there is some type of a wiper seal on the thermostat shaft seal that the crushed glass causes it to stick. Excuse me, looking at ur name I thought you were a Trucker, I appoligize if you took me the wrong way, I didn't mean any disrespect. Thank You

 

No offense taken. I could see how you could make that assumption. Anyway, thanks for the info. Reading I will go.

 

So did I miss something? All this talk about CRUSHED GLASS in anti freeze and no one has mentioned what anti freeze has the glass in it. The MSDS sheets I have read do not show glass in them.

sctrt

 

i wonder if the crushed glass is a corrosion inhibitor because its like consantly porting and polishing the inside of the engine???? that wouldnt nessisarily stop the rust, but if thats what it did you may not be able to see it lol. dont know its just a guess

 

Just my .02 cents.

I am at work so I dont have time to post references yet.

From what I learned working for an oil manufacturer.

The antifreeze that is 100k with anticorosives in it will only work if it is put in a brand new engine because it will only "inbed" itself on new steel. So adding it or changing to it later is a waste.

Diesel Heavy Truck antifreeze is completely different than gas engine antifreeze for a multitude of reasons. (Not pick up truck)

I have never heard of crushed glass in an antifreeze.

The best self flush method is what was described above with 10 and 3

Pre-mix is the safest to use but cost the most and it is what most dealers use. (I used to sell 250 gallon totes of the stuff)

I don't think any manufacturer can make you use thier brand and if you dont they will void your warranty. They can only inforce a spec. As long as what you use meets their spec. Now if only thier brand meets spec then you have to use it.

Lastly you do not need to run your heat on high! That is a long gone proceedure. Modern cars use blend doors so the heater core is always hot regardless of what the heater is set on.

 

There is no crushed glass in Anti-Freeze. That was just someone getting their silicates mixed up.

 

Anybody have a right up on this? with pictures and such?

 

I ran a recycling business for 6 yrs. Have busted the tanks off many a radiator. 8 out of 10 are usually gummed and corroded with white crap. Don't know what the guys were using in the clean one's. Also just about every diesel engine rad we cleaned was clean as a whistle.

 

I have the Ford Service write up/procedure w/diagrams. That's all you really need.

I have the 2006 - should be the same.

 

This may or may not be right, but for a really gummed up cooling system i drain, fill and repeat a couple of times (recycle what I recover) In my 1998 150 the garden hose snugly fits on the drain for the radiator so I let it flush the radiator with the engine on. I stop flushing and drive around a bit with radiator flush for a few miles (this summer it was about 10-work and back) repeat the flush. I repeat this daily habit until the water is clean. I drain the system as completely as possible. Here is the real stunt. I take unmixed antifreeze, I measure out exactly half of the system capacity pour that in and fill the rest up with distilled water. I do a hydro test to make sure the proper ratio is met for coolant and then i don't worry about it.

WARNING water only can freeze and damage/completely destroy and engine.