Starter stuck
#1
04-13-2004, 11:15 PM
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Starter stuck
I had a problem a couple of weeks ago not starting. So I got the starter checked and it was done. So I replaced it and it still would not work so I found out that the soilnod was not working, replaced it and it worked prefectly.
Now today when I started it the starter stuck so I turned the truck off but it was still cracking over. I discontected the battery lucky I had the right size of wrench in the truck so it only cranked over for about two minutes. How would I find out what is causing the starter to stick?
Now today when I started it the starter stuck so I turned the truck off but it was still cracking over. I discontected the battery lucky I had the right size of wrench in the truck so it only cranked over for about two minutes. How would I find out what is causing the starter to stick?
#2
04-13-2004, 11:34 PM
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Location: Sugar Land, TX
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Did you say that the starter has or has NOT been rebuilt? It sounds like you need to take it in and have it rebuilt from scratch. Mine was sticking but it had 105k on it too. 75 bucks rebuild, 'lifetime' warranty. There is some kind of spring that is supposed to retract that gear after the flywheel starts to go from the engine. Sounds like something is either weak or is broken altogether.
#4
04-14-2004, 07:38 AM
Senior Member
Jeremy,
When you replaced the starter, was the solenoid also replaced? I am assuming so, because it cured your no start condition.
The pinion disengagement from the ring gear after cycling off the starter is pulled back by a couple of actions. One is by a return spring, attached to the plunger, attached to the fork lever, attached to the pinion. The second is the reversal of current back through the pull-in and hold-in coils of the solenoid. The solenoid coils do most of the work to pull the plunger back. The return spring is there to help prevent bouncing while engaging and returning.
Regarding your continuous cranking condition. There are only two things that can cause this -
1. The ignition system is still energizing the starter. You could either have a faulty ignition switch, bad fender relay, shorted ignition wiring, etc.
2. A welded contact within the solenoid. On brand new starters, the solenoid contacts are not broken in at all. They will have high spots on them. During the contact mating, there is enough energy to weld the contacts together. I believe this is your problem since this is a brand new starter and appears you haven't had ignition problems in the past.
If it is a welded contact. the starter will stay engaged and continuously crank the engine. You did the only thing you can do which is remove the B+ cable. A welded contact is easy to break through enough vibration such as a vehicle turning off. It doesn't take much. The good news is that this is only a premature condition. As rare as this occurance happens, it is even rarer that it will happen again. The more the starter is used, the more the contacts are broken-in and should have no problems.
Regarding damage to your starter while continuously cranking, it should be okay. Did you see any smoke, smell, fumes coming out of the starter? Is there any signs of varnish and/or grease being cooked out of the seams? The newer starters are very well suited to run a 5 min continuous crank. Older starters are good, but have shown not making a 5 min continuous crank.
What year is the truck? What replacement starter did you use? If you have any further questions, we are here to help.
When you replaced the starter, was the solenoid also replaced? I am assuming so, because it cured your no start condition.
The pinion disengagement from the ring gear after cycling off the starter is pulled back by a couple of actions. One is by a return spring, attached to the plunger, attached to the fork lever, attached to the pinion. The second is the reversal of current back through the pull-in and hold-in coils of the solenoid. The solenoid coils do most of the work to pull the plunger back. The return spring is there to help prevent bouncing while engaging and returning.
Regarding your continuous cranking condition. There are only two things that can cause this -
1. The ignition system is still energizing the starter. You could either have a faulty ignition switch, bad fender relay, shorted ignition wiring, etc.
2. A welded contact within the solenoid. On brand new starters, the solenoid contacts are not broken in at all. They will have high spots on them. During the contact mating, there is enough energy to weld the contacts together. I believe this is your problem since this is a brand new starter and appears you haven't had ignition problems in the past.
If it is a welded contact. the starter will stay engaged and continuously crank the engine. You did the only thing you can do which is remove the B+ cable. A welded contact is easy to break through enough vibration such as a vehicle turning off. It doesn't take much. The good news is that this is only a premature condition. As rare as this occurance happens, it is even rarer that it will happen again. The more the starter is used, the more the contacts are broken-in and should have no problems.
Regarding damage to your starter while continuously cranking, it should be okay. Did you see any smoke, smell, fumes coming out of the starter? Is there any signs of varnish and/or grease being cooked out of the seams? The newer starters are very well suited to run a 5 min continuous crank. Older starters are good, but have shown not making a 5 min continuous crank.
What year is the truck? What replacement starter did you use? If you have any further questions, we are here to help.