Any good tips on installing shocks
#1
02-16-2002, 09:01 PM
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Winston Salem, NC
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Any good tips on installing shocks
#3
02-17-2002, 10:12 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Corona, CA
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If you want to tackle it yourself, you'll need a 13/16" open-end wrench for the front factory shocks shaft nut (located about 3" below the top nut inside the little A-frame housing, or you can use an 8" Crescent to keep the shaft from spinning when you loosen and back off the top 13/16" top nut. You'll be able to use a 13/16" deep socket (spark plug socket) on the passenger front top nut, but on the driver's side there is limited clearance and I had to use a regular wrench (not a ratchet). The bottom nuts on the front come off easy. For access to the top nuts on the front, jack up the frame (not wheels) slightly to give yourself added clearance and work from above the of the tire in the wheel well. After the top is loose, remove the bottom nuts. You will have to jack up each A-arm to gain clearance to the ground to remove the old shock (think of this when you install the new shock too!).
If you have antilock brakes, there's a plastic electrical cable retainer that pops onto the top end of the threaded shock rod. Take a screwdriver and pry open the side facing you. This only pops off from one side...the other side is merely a hinge point so be careful which end you try to pry open. Once open, the cable is free. After removing the cable, don't try to pry the cable bracket housing...but unthread it from the top end of the shock rod. When reinstalling, you can push it back on. Once you see this little holder bracket removed, you'll know what I'm talking about.
The IAS's will have a plastic strap which retains the shock in a compressed position. If you remove the strap, the shock will self extend....so don't remove the strap until after you get the top and bottom nuts started (not tightened). Once you get the nuts started, then you can cut the plastic strap.
For the rears, the only problem I had was on the driver's side. The top nut is a bear to get to...my deep socket was too long to use so I reverted to an open end wrench and put a pipe wrench on the top part of the factory shock dust housing and unscrewed it that way. To line up your new "pressure loaded" IAS's, place a jack under the tow hitch or somewhere on the frame in the back and adjust your height to line up the lower hole of the shocks to the bottom frame brackets. Be careful about your jacking points and use jack stands for safety sake...these will help keep your cranium from getting deformed.
Oh, never mind...take it to a shop like JimmyLee said and pay the $50 to get them put on!!!! It's a pain in the **** the first time you do it.
Good luck!
If you have antilock brakes, there's a plastic electrical cable retainer that pops onto the top end of the threaded shock rod. Take a screwdriver and pry open the side facing you. This only pops off from one side...the other side is merely a hinge point so be careful which end you try to pry open. Once open, the cable is free. After removing the cable, don't try to pry the cable bracket housing...but unthread it from the top end of the shock rod. When reinstalling, you can push it back on. Once you see this little holder bracket removed, you'll know what I'm talking about.
The IAS's will have a plastic strap which retains the shock in a compressed position. If you remove the strap, the shock will self extend....so don't remove the strap until after you get the top and bottom nuts started (not tightened). Once you get the nuts started, then you can cut the plastic strap.
For the rears, the only problem I had was on the driver's side. The top nut is a bear to get to...my deep socket was too long to use so I reverted to an open end wrench and put a pipe wrench on the top part of the factory shock dust housing and unscrewed it that way. To line up your new "pressure loaded" IAS's, place a jack under the tow hitch or somewhere on the frame in the back and adjust your height to line up the lower hole of the shocks to the bottom frame brackets. Be careful about your jacking points and use jack stands for safety sake...these will help keep your cranium from getting deformed.
Oh, never mind...take it to a shop like JimmyLee said and pay the $50 to get them put on!!!! It's a pain in the **** the first time you do it.
Good luck!
Last edited by Area 52; 02-17-2002 at 10:14 PM.