upper A-arm relocation brackets (lowered)
#1
upper A-arm relocation brackets (lowered)
For those of you who are regulars to different f-150 forums may remember the upper control arm relocation brackets that the bagged trucks were using for negative camber problems. I believe a guy on FordTruckWorld.com was selling them. They moved the mounting points up like 2 inches to give the upper arms a better advantage to kick the top of the tire out.
I have DJM upper and lower arms with a Western Chassis 3 inch coil. Which has given me more than 5" in the front. I have pretty bad negative camber and am eating my tires up. The toe is OK with about 1/8"-1/4" toe in, which I believe is recommended. I, of course, already have the new cam bolts, which are adjusted all the way out. I am posting on FTW.com as well to find out if anyone is selling these anymore.
Blake
I have DJM upper and lower arms with a Western Chassis 3 inch coil. Which has given me more than 5" in the front. I have pretty bad negative camber and am eating my tires up. The toe is OK with about 1/8"-1/4" toe in, which I believe is recommended. I, of course, already have the new cam bolts, which are adjusted all the way out. I am posting on FTW.com as well to find out if anyone is selling these anymore.
Blake
#2
Your probably eating tires because.... YOU HAVE A 1/4" OF TOE!!!!
My truck is running about .8 degree of negative camber. It's got 2" drop springs, and 2" drop spindals (with an alignment kit from belltech), and I have no ill tire wear.
Your toe should be set as close to 0 (no negative, no positive) as possible, otherwise it will wear your tires.
And I thought DJM arms lowered the front like 4"???
And on the note of moving your upper arms, that's a really good way to screw up suspension geometry. Kind of like reverse 4-links.... Bad idea!
My truck is running about .8 degree of negative camber. It's got 2" drop springs, and 2" drop spindals (with an alignment kit from belltech), and I have no ill tire wear.
Your toe should be set as close to 0 (no negative, no positive) as possible, otherwise it will wear your tires.
And I thought DJM arms lowered the front like 4"???
And on the note of moving your upper arms, that's a really good way to screw up suspension geometry. Kind of like reverse 4-links.... Bad idea!
#3
I am not going to say you are incorrect about the toe. I just thought I remembered toe in has to do with back to center when you turn the wheel.
The DJM's are worth 4" if you use their 2" coils that come with the front kit, but instead I have the 3" coils I mentioned. The DJM arms by themselves are only 2". But the 3" coils + 2" arms has turned out to be more than 5" for me.
As far as suspension geometry goes, my DJM upper arms are already at a crazy angle. I am just hoping to get better wear out of my tires. These trucks were not made for more than a 4" drop and I might just get the 2" springs.
The DJM's are worth 4" if you use their 2" coils that come with the front kit, but instead I have the 3" coils I mentioned. The DJM arms by themselves are only 2". But the 3" coils + 2" arms has turned out to be more than 5" for me.
As far as suspension geometry goes, my DJM upper arms are already at a crazy angle. I am just hoping to get better wear out of my tires. These trucks were not made for more than a 4" drop and I might just get the 2" springs.
#4
http://www.justtires.com/services/wheelTerms.html
Caster is what returns the wheels back to center.
Do you have your fenders wells tubed out??? And if you don't, you must either rub everywere, or have tiny wheels!
I would suggest getting a set of drop spindals, and a 1" drop spring.....
Caster is what returns the wheels back to center.
Do you have your fenders wells tubed out??? And if you don't, you must either rub everywere, or have tiny wheels!
I would suggest getting a set of drop spindals, and a 1" drop spring.....
#6
Originally Posted by 99lowrider
http://www.justtires.com/services/wheelTerms.html
Do you have your fenders wells tubed out??? And if you don't, you must either rub everywere, or have tiny wheels!
I would suggest getting a set of drop spindals, and a 1" drop spring.....
Do you have your fenders wells tubed out??? And if you don't, you must either rub everywere, or have tiny wheels!
I would suggest getting a set of drop spindals, and a 1" drop spring.....
No tubs. Small tires yes. 255/50/17 stock wheels. Before I get spindles I will just go back to the Western Chassis 3" coil w/ stock arms. I will probably take some toe out and rotate the tires more often.
With the toe that I do have I am not getting any unusual tire wear just the inside edge from the camber.
Blake