Is this bickering back and forth really helping us out? We all want what's best for our trucks, and some of us can't afford a 500 dollar solution. Some of us like myself have a supercharger but don't race or have excessive amounts of boost. Between both of you, what is the best option for me? I've seen double oil catch set-ups, air breathers with the ball valve, just single oil catch pans, and now this oil pump solution which seems kind of excessive for my truck. Maybe you guys can collaborate and save this thread because you both have extensive knowledge with supercharged engines.

 

I run the expensive Krank Vents setup and have zero oil in my intake now

 

What does that consist of? Any photos or threads you can lead me to? Thanks

 

This is a very interesting subject and I hope that you guys that know this stuff continue. That said, maybe we need to break the discussion into categories. For example, with my little knowledge I would think that anyone who has a setup that evacuates the crankcase with a pump would also be in the same league with vehicles that use Blower straps. So how about some definitions on this stuff. Maybe "Street Legal" would be a category that includes mods to the Crankcase ventilation system that can be used on the street. "Street Ill Eagle" this would be a category that would include mods that would not meet Smog but could be changed easily before your next smog test. And "Race" This would be track only mods requiring you to trailer your vehicle to the track. I hope this discussion continues. I have learned a lot.

 

http://www.dynamicracing.com/index.p...&product_id=88

I honestly don't remember where I bought mine from. One goes in each vacuum lines coming going from the valve covers to intake tube / supercharger. They are a one way valve that only allows vacuum to the crank case and no oil or vapor pressure into the intake. If you let the truck idle for a minute and shut the engine off it's physically difficult to pull the oil dipstick or oil fill cap off because of the strong vacuum. I have noticed zero oil in my intake since installation.

I think I have a write up on here I'll have to search

 

Well I had a write up with hose part numbers and such of the install but it was years ago I think all that info got wiped off the site (probably only keep threads so many years)

Oh and as far as categories my truck is a daily driver that passes Arizona emissions but won't pass a tailpipe test due to no cats

 

I like the simple breather that replaces the oil cap. I was wondering though, do you also need a catch can? Do you need both?

 

LMAO. Only problem is Crash can't get that close to me. 14 sec turd verses 12 sec truck.

 

I didn't start anything Crash. You came on to this thread with your typical know it all attitude bashing a product you nothing about and claiming to have a $3 solution. Still waiting for the details on the $3 solution, cause as I stated it won't work on the positive displacement setups. You've bashed the product for not being street legal. Yes Mr I spent the majority of the 2000's behind bars. Tell us more about the law...You've bashed the setup for price. And you've attacked me for my exhaust changes??? You have proposed a $500 pump that's NOT STREET LEGAL and won't solve the oil mist on the intercooler??? Really? That's your best. Pathetic Oh and you stated you have solutions for all of this in the archives. Still waiting on those links. Now unlike you I will actually respond to your questions to me.

The vacuum pump. Yes it will work. Never said it wouldn't. In fact no where in this thread or any other have i addressed it. It would work but only half the job would be done. And it's not street legal which you seem to care so much about The pump would work beautifully for evacuating the crankcase and improving ring seal. However if routed to the intake it would give the inter cooler a bath in oil. So it would still need a catch can or some other type of trap assembly for the oil to settle in. Regardless of where you route it this would be needed. Plus it would need a regulator, plumbing, pulley, and other hardware. All said your looking at a $700+ setup. Unless you order the kit from www.rehermorrison.com/product/vacuum-pump-kit/ which is far more expensive.

You keep harping on metered air and measuring it once. What you don't get is this. The air was measured, entered the combustion chamber, mixed with fuel and as far as the computer is concerned was evacuated. The computer does not care if it went out the exhaust pipe or slid past the rings. It has no way of measuring or determining what air went where. As far as it's concerned it's gone. When under boost the PCV system doesn't even work so this again is a moot point on your part. If you had read how this part works you would have never brought this up as you would see it only functions to release pressure when the PCV system is not working which is under boost. It relives crankcase pressure. It does not allow unmetered air in to the system. Sooo NO TUNING IS REQUIRED. That's the beauty of this part.

For a while now guys who wanted or had to run a vent had to let there tuner know so they could build the logic in the tune for the un-metered air. Crash you should know this. It's right on JDM's tuning sheet. Remember the one you stole from their site and labeled as your own.

Now for the low down on my exhaust. When I purchased my truck new in 07 I added a Magnaflow Catback Lightning style exit for my ride to give it a little rumble. 2 years later I supercharged my truck and 1 year after that up'd the boost to 9-10psi. At that time I added LT headers and x-pipe and a true duals. The Magnflow muffler I used for this setup failed and became quite noisy 18 months later. My work sent to Ft. Lauderdale for 3 weeks in Nov of 2012. They wanted me to take the comapny van and I declined asking if I could use my truck. I had one thing in mind. Down in Ft. Lauderdale I had found a shop that could do Mandrel bends. So with my company footing the gas bill I was able to drive my truck down there and have an all Stainless Steel system complete with Manadrel bends installed for $550. I ask, who wouldn't take that deal?

 

Is the oil cap vent mod necessary? No. It's a nice option and works very well. Here's some more info on it. http://www.svtperformance.com/?p=5687
I run more boost then most on a stock motor and probably don't need it. I like the idea of having it though. The Whipple, Roush, and Saleen set ups for the 04-10 trucks all route the PCV back to the inlet tube and the driver side valve cover is vented to the intake behind the throttle body. This allows for venting when under boost and promotes ring seal under normal driving using intake vacuum. However that oily air that is sucked in coats the inter cooler which reduces it's efficiency. This is where the catch can comes in. Or as Irons1in has done using the Krankvents. There's also McMaster Carr vents. Irons1in hasn't had any issues with his Krankvents and they seem to work well. However results have been different for different individuals. Some have found they need the oil catch can behind the Krankvents and some have found they needed to regulate vacuum to them as they pulled to much.

 

Whats with the "6 exhaust systems" ?? You keep bringing that up when he already explained what he did. I had the "6" systems. I changed mufflers, single exhaust to dual to single in dual out for the Saleen skirts back to dual and a few other setups. I was changing it for different sounds and whatever I felt like at the time. We change our exhaust as often as you get a DUI.

LOL yes god forbid he has brains and can do math.

WTF does this even mean?

 

I have crawled under my truck and screwed with that exhaust more times that I want to admit. But, I think it sounds pretty good now.

Just a side note, you want to Walk the walk and not just talk the talk.... is how it goes.

 

Amen to that! Plenty of talking up here. All those post and not one showing I'm wrong. I love it!!

 

All of these solutions seem to depend on vacuum, When you have blow by and boost, what then? Oh, and the breather noted by the OP has a check valve.

That plastic check valve isn't going to work, it not shinny or anodized, what were you thinking?

 

I keep wondering what the OEM's do? They make all kinds of vehicles that have forced induction. They must make some changes to the PCV systems to handle the WFO conditions. I know the Ford Factory produced 5.4 F150's with a blower, what changes were made to its PCV system?

Stirring the pot....