Need advice on stall converter
#1
10-14-2001, 06:16 PM
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Need advice on stall converter
A couple of months ago I put in a PI 2600 stall converter. My best time up to that point was a 1.89 60ft. on et streets. I changed from a 2# PSP to a 3# JL pulley at the same time as my converter. JL said he shaved .25 off the 1/4 by changing from a 2# to a 3# pulley. Since that time all I could get out of my 60ft. is a 1.84. That is only .05 quicker. I have shaved .26 off my 1/4. I have tried launching anywhere from 1600-2400rpms. The 1.84 came at 2000rpms. Can anyone give me some advice as to what is wrong with my truck?
#3
10-14-2001, 08:45 PM
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JD
I was talkin to an old mopar racer at work a while back and he has been following the progress of my truck. He offered a suggestion that seems to be worth over a tenth on my truck.
I also have the JDM/PI converter and I thought the truck should be doing better.
Anyway, he said just leave from an idol and flat foot the gas pedal. Don't bring the rpm up against the brakes or none of that, just leave a little earlier and stand on it when your ready to go.
The guy that told me this, learned it from a **** Landy drag race seminar that he went to in the early 70's. The chrysler "J" converter needs this type of treatment.
Anyway when I tried this, (its only been 2 runs now) it was like I was driving a whole different truck. Before when I would load it up against the converter to 12, 15, or 1800 rpm or whatever it would spin a little always.
Now, when I launch the new way it just picks the front end up a little, the truck rocks back on the rear tires and leaves - no tire spin - like I said it acts completely different. The hard part is learning when to leave on the tree again. Its gonna take a while.
One more thing, I was forced to go with a traction device, (I chose the PSP Cal-tracs and really like them.) The reason why I had to have them is because the drive line was just starting to hit the pinion drive flange and I needed to stop rearend wrap up.
Hope this helps
Dale
P.S. My 60' times went from mostly mid 1.8's, down to mid to low 1.7's with a low of 1.710 that is with a standard 2# PSP pulley. Soon to be a 4# PSP pulley.
I was talkin to an old mopar racer at work a while back and he has been following the progress of my truck. He offered a suggestion that seems to be worth over a tenth on my truck.
I also have the JDM/PI converter and I thought the truck should be doing better.
Anyway, he said just leave from an idol and flat foot the gas pedal. Don't bring the rpm up against the brakes or none of that, just leave a little earlier and stand on it when your ready to go.
The guy that told me this, learned it from a **** Landy drag race seminar that he went to in the early 70's. The chrysler "J" converter needs this type of treatment.
Anyway when I tried this, (its only been 2 runs now) it was like I was driving a whole different truck. Before when I would load it up against the converter to 12, 15, or 1800 rpm or whatever it would spin a little always.
Now, when I launch the new way it just picks the front end up a little, the truck rocks back on the rear tires and leaves - no tire spin - like I said it acts completely different. The hard part is learning when to leave on the tree again. Its gonna take a while.
One more thing, I was forced to go with a traction device, (I chose the PSP Cal-tracs and really like them.) The reason why I had to have them is because the drive line was just starting to hit the pinion drive flange and I needed to stop rearend wrap up.
Hope this helps
Dale
P.S. My 60' times went from mostly mid 1.8's, down to mid to low 1.7's with a low of 1.710 that is with a standard 2# PSP pulley. Soon to be a 4# PSP pulley.
#4
10-14-2001, 10:29 PM
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#5
10-14-2001, 11:50 PM
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Bad as L,
I will try that method then next time I go to the track.
rescoleman,
If you need some details, I had a Diablo PSP 2#, 90mm, 3.55's, JL Stage II ram air, line mod valve, and 26x11.50 et streets on 16x10 alum wheels with 17psi if air.
No sway bar, spare tire, and tailgate.
That was with the 1.89 60ft. 13.27 1/4 PERFECT HOOK UP.
The 1.84 came from a change from the 2# to 3# pulley, chip reburn, and the 2600 stall converter. 13.01 1/4 SPUN PRETTY BAD. Ended up letting air down to 12 psi for a half-way hook-up and I even had tailgate and spare tire for extra rear weight.
No sway bar only.
No traction bars, stock suspension.
Both times had an empty tank of gas, but they were on different tracks.
I will try that method then next time I go to the track.
rescoleman,
If you need some details, I had a Diablo PSP 2#, 90mm, 3.55's, JL Stage II ram air, line mod valve, and 26x11.50 et streets on 16x10 alum wheels with 17psi if air.
No sway bar, spare tire, and tailgate.
That was with the 1.89 60ft. 13.27 1/4 PERFECT HOOK UP.
The 1.84 came from a change from the 2# to 3# pulley, chip reburn, and the 2600 stall converter. 13.01 1/4 SPUN PRETTY BAD. Ended up letting air down to 12 psi for a half-way hook-up and I even had tailgate and spare tire for extra rear weight.
No sway bar only.
No traction bars, stock suspension.
Both times had an empty tank of gas, but they were on different tracks.