How-To: Big 3 Upgrade (Extremely Pic-Heavy)

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  #31  
Old 03-08-2010, 11:15 PM
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Originally Posted by mSaLL150
Nah I haven't touched my install since about a year ago. I still have the TBI tweeters/ID mids/Adire woofers with the Cadence/US AMPS amps all in my truck. All that equipment I posted like a month ago (old school Zed amps and Seas Lotus speakers) is going in along with the SI woofers. Also will be re-routing all the wires neatly under the carpet, heavily deadening the floor, and glass molding the tweeters into the pillars. I'm gonna whip up a quick box for the BMs tomorrow or thursday, still need to decide which will be staying in the truck: the SI's or the Adires.

Dont worry I'll take plenty of progress pictures.

My week off in 2 weeks will be the first time in forever Ive had no class or work for a whole week so I'll have lots of time to get this done finally.

Originally Posted by mblouir
Sweet!


I hear you about work and school. That was the first day I've had off in a while. Gotta take advantage of them.
Yeah man...spring break. Workin 40 hours....awesome.
 
  #32  
Old 03-09-2010, 08:30 PM
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Here's a link to Fusion connectors. Cable Terminal , -up to 1 gauge. Their not that bad on Price and they come with sized solder pellets.

Just found this site, -attempting to collect everything needed lol.

http://www.remybattery.com/Departmen...Terminals.aspx

Hey, where do you guys get your in-lines at ? This is all I have handy (40amp being max) and I'm not having much luck locally.



Most likley online somewhere or a stereo shop, Radio Shack? I've been using an old amp for many years without problems, so far. It's a 400 watt Kenwood 4 channel into 12" Technics woofers w/a SuperTuner driving it all. KW 6x9's in the doors as well. - Told you it was old lol, - but still sounds amazing IMO.
 

Last edited by jbrew; 03-09-2010 at 09:33 PM.
  #33  
Old 03-09-2010, 09:53 PM
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For installation accessories I use Darvex.com. they have lots of cool grommets, wire tie downs, fuses and connectors. I also use partsexpress.com for techflex sleeving and for adhesive mounts/zip ties for running wires on the floor. Cheap but very effective.
 
  #34  
Old 03-09-2010, 10:30 PM
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Originally Posted by mSaLL150
For installation accessories I use Darvex.com. they have lots of cool grommets, wire tie downs, fuses and connectors. I also use partsexpress.com for techflex sleeving and for adhesive mounts/zip ties for running wires on the floor. Cheap but very effective.
Holey craps! Have you seen their terminals ?

http://www.darvex.com/battery_terminal.html

NICE!

Thanks for the links Sal
 
  #35  
Old 03-09-2010, 11:13 PM
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Jbrew, weve got inlines at work...Rockford Fosgate. They can hold glass or maxi fuses.
 
  #36  
Old 03-10-2010, 10:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Sundevil2188
Jbrew, weve got inlines at work...Rockford Fosgate. They can hold glass or maxi fuses.
Thanks, but mann, I think I'm getting a little to crazy with it. I've never blown that little 40 amp fuse. I do hate that pink color tho, - yea yea, I'm a little prejudice I expect, -It looks fairy.

You guys use some heavy stuff. I guess all I need is a link to match wire gauge right ? So I think 40 is sufficiant since I'm not adding more power and most likley , I'm not pushing half of what you are or will be...-Yet! My amp runs with a 35 in the back. I believe it's 10 or 12 gauge running to the battery.

Am I good or should I go heavier their as well ? Will it make a difference ?
 
  #37  
Old 03-10-2010, 11:52 PM
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Do you have specs on what your running? I run minimum 8 gauge wire to low-power amps. The only thing I use 10 gauge power for is remote starts where the car has low amperage 12volt at the ignition harness and for power inverters. As for the fuse holders, i have simple glass fuses rated as low as 30 or 40 amps. Its not like you have to stick a 120 amp maxi fuse in there.
 
  #38  
Old 03-11-2010, 01:18 AM
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Originally Posted by jbrew
Thanks, but mann, I think I'm getting a little to crazy with it. I've never blown that little 40 amp fuse. I do hate that pink color tho, - yea yea, I'm a little prejudice I expect, -It looks fairy.

You guys use some heavy stuff. I guess all I need is a link to match wire gauge right ? So I think 40 is sufficiant since I'm not adding more power and most likley , I'm not pushing half of what you are or will be...-Yet! My amp runs with a 35 in the back. I believe it's 10 or 12 gauge running to the battery.

Am I good or should I go heavier their as well ? Will it make a difference ?
With a 40 amp fused amplifier 8awg should be the minimum you use, especially if your run from the battery is longer than 5 feet or so. The longer the run of wire from the battery, the less power the cable can handle safely for extended periods.

I use 10awg for speaker cable powering my subwoofers and 12awg for the mids and tweeters.
 
  #39  
Old 03-11-2010, 03:03 AM
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Originally Posted by mSaLL150
With a 40 amp fused amplifier 8awg should be the minimum you use, especially if your run from the battery is longer than 5 feet or so. The longer the run of wire from the battery, the less power the cable can handle safely for extended periods.

I use 10awg for speaker cable powering my subwoofers and 12awg for the mids and tweeters.
Yea, that's what it is then. I know I measured and went by a chart on install. It was quite awhile ago. 35 amp fused amplifier 40 amp fused line = 10 GA for 20 ft. 25 - 30 ft would be 8 GA, 40 ft jumps to 6 and so on. That's the way I understood it back then, maybe things changed up since that time. I multiplied my run x2 +gd (L). Since the ground is under the rear of the cab to the frame rail. Never gets hot and never blew any fuses, - Hope I did it right.

Ah Crap, I'll go see what it is real quick, -it's 8 or 10.

Well, I looked at it, what's funny is, it looks larger than the 40 amp fuse wire ? I can strip the insulation with 10 awgs so I guess it is 10. Iduno, I'm goin to bed lol.
 

Last edited by jbrew; 03-11-2010 at 03:27 AM.
  #40  
Old 03-11-2010, 02:46 PM
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Yea, it's 10. So now I guess I have to gut the cab for that wire and run a better in-line for it. Oh well, I want it done right! Thought I had the wire sized accordingly, it's not looking that way. Also, the in-line fuse wires have oxidation on one side and a little corrosion on the other, -soo.. Bartak, who use to frequent this site, not sure if he still comes around; -you guys most likley don't know him, but he gave me a hand on the install and amp settings, wiring -got it sounding killer. That was 3 or 4 years ago. I do have pictures of the install, but I probably shouldn't post them in mblouir's nice right up. I'll start a thread somewhere in audio or electrical once I get it all apart.

Thanks for all the info fellas, -Sundevil I'll PM you for more info on those in-lines before I order a new one. thumbsup:

Well, I can't find my wire gauge. 4 sets of insulation strippers. One set the wire will thread thru the 10 AWG slot, the others it doesn't, so now it may be 8 ? I'm going to pic up a new wire gauge tomorrow. Geezzz Wiring isn't marked and I have nothing to gauge larger than 10 at the moment...No laughing!
 

Last edited by jbrew; 03-11-2010 at 05:42 PM.
  #41  
Old 03-11-2010, 10:55 PM
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Heavy Wall Adhesive Lined Heat Shrink Tubing

3:1 Shrink Ratio with melt adhesive inner lining (shrinks to 1/3 its original diameter.)

http://www.buyheatshrink.com/heatshr...polyolefin.htm
 
  #42  
Old 03-12-2010, 12:30 AM
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Your alt to battery cable is 8 gauge from the factory i believe. compare it to that?
 
  #43  
Old 03-12-2010, 02:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Sundevil2188
Your alt to battery cable is 8 gauge from the factory i believe. compare it to that?
Thought about that, but it's 4 Ga/ 130 AMP Alt. Good Idea tho ( :

 

Last edited by jbrew; 03-12-2010 at 04:15 AM.
  #44  
Old 04-01-2010, 10:09 PM
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Originally Posted by jbrew
but I probably shouldn't post them in mblouir's nice right up.
Dude I'm really lax about stuff like that. I could care less---post whatever you want.
 
  #45  
Old 04-12-2010, 10:55 PM
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hi guys,

I recently did the big3 upgrade and i did mine as follows.

Green - Negative batt (-) to Chassis
Red - Positive batt (+) to Alt (Fused)
Blue - Negative batt (-) to Engine block



Is this a correct way of doing it? I have some wire left over, did i miss anything?

thanks guys!
 


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