Great job there Steve. Ill hopefully never have to do this on my 150 since it will take me 25 years to get 45k on my truck. but if I do, ill enlist the help of you
Great job there Steve. Ill hopefully never have to do this on my 150 since it will take me 25 years to get 45k on my truck. but if I do, ill enlist the help of you
Hopefully whenever your truck needs it, they'll still be making replacement parts for it
This is the best write up Ive seen yet about the Phasers. Thank you, in fact I love you in a very hetero way...LOL. Im doing plugs and Phasers as we speak.
Currently: Drivers side valve cover off. 6 plugs total out at the moment with no problems, giving the passenger side rear 2 plugs some extra soak time since the broken plug removal tool I ordered in on back order. FINGERS CROSSED.
WOW this is a pain though, the wiring harness's stretch tight across the covers. So in order to remove them you have to disconnect about 50 plugs. Using blue masking tape and a sharpie to phase them for reinstall.
Honestly im not to happy with Ford about this problem. My last car was a Porsche Boxster S 3.2 H6 mid engine and it seemed to be more mechanic friendly. Of coarse i did have to remove the convertible top and seats to work on the engine, not to mention a ton of bracing cross members, exhaust and transmission to do repairs. But after all that the car didnt seem this bad to access. A full size truck should not be this hard to access anything on the engine. But what do I know.... I work on sportbike and tugboat engines.
Anyways thanks for the awesome writeup.
Ps: Ill also have a timing wedge for discount sale or loan after this. Its way overpriced new.
One more ting that may help others. When removing the power steering res bracket there is 1 very hard to reach bolt that holds the bottom of the bracket to the head. You only need loosen this bolt slightly, not completely remove. The bracket is notched at the bottom and will slide out once the bolt is loose.
FYI, you can leave out the rear most valve cover bolt on each valve cover (center, closest to the firewall) when putting it back together. Total PITA to put back in, and apparently the later model (06+) valve covers use half as many bolts.
I got the drivers side done, working on the pass side now. What did you do about the trans oil level tube, it's in the way? Bolts on the pass side easier to remove except for one bottom back. Also air conditioning lines any problem, looks like there is clearance.
Found out if you remove the plastic fender well linner its easy to remove cover bolts and the bolt that holds the trany dip tube in place. Also found out the pass phasser has already been changed once and that the chain guide is broken, removing the timing cover now. Going to remove the plastic linner on the drivers side before reinstalling the valve cover.
Just a tip if you are at home (with an air compressor) and going to be doing the work standing bending over the fenders and front end, you can let the air out of the front tires and loose 2-3" of height and gain that clearance over the top of the core support and fenders.
nice writeup man, just did this in my asset engine repair class the other day, but we were fortunate to have a engine on a stand, and we also had to remove the actual camshaft and observe it and learn how to take the rockers off and inspect the retainers.
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