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How To: Replace rear window surround/fix leaking rear window

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  #16  
Old 02-17-2010, 10:14 AM
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Any idea how different, if at all, this process would be on a supercrew with the manual sliding window in the center? My surround has cracked and need to replace it. Thanks.
 
  #17  
Old 02-17-2010, 10:28 AM
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As far as I know, it should be pretty much the same in a supercrew. If you end up swapping it out for an uncracked one, I'd make sure to get a surround off a supercrew, just to avoid any mismatching in the surrounds. But I would think the process would be the same.
 
  #18  
Old 02-17-2010, 10:46 AM
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Thanks so much! I'll start looking into it. Appreciate your help.
 
  #19  
Old 02-18-2010, 09:39 AM
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Nice job! I'm wondering what kind of adheasive you used since the factory uses a butyl tape seal. Not a bad idea to use urethane though, thats what the windshield is installed with. Only problem is if the window ever needs to come out or be replaced it may be a pain depending on how strong that urethane is. Also a tech note urethane requires special prep and primers to adhear to different surfaces. Since these windows have studs and nuts to hold it in there should be no problem with leaking or bonding.
(8 years in auto glass)
 
  #20  
Old 02-18-2010, 09:42 AM
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Supercrew is easier, the back seat folds down to give easy access to rear trim. The rest is very similar.
 
  #21  
Old 02-18-2010, 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by 1clean42

Sealant:

Here's the sealant I used. I just went down and asked the local auto glass place what they recommended and they said the urethane was what they would use. So I just went and got some from Autozone and used it myself. Thanks for the input on the special primers though! So far, what I've done is working...
 
  #22  
Old 02-18-2010, 11:04 AM
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We only do what the factory does for liability reasons. I personaly would use urethane. like i said withe nuts and studs you should be fine. the urethane will seal it and the bolts will hold it in.
 
  #23  
Old 03-13-2010, 03:53 PM
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Awesome right up and pics. Changed my rear window seal a few days ago, not leakin anymore. Took about 3 hours
 
  #24  
Old 03-19-2010, 02:21 PM
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Well, thanks to this thread as well as some others, I have fixed the problem, or so I think. It was pretty obvious where the seepage was coming through, so when it came time to use the adhesive, I globbed it on pretty good and thick. Did so around the screws too- good tip for prospective DIY'rs. It was simple and only took maybe 2.5 hours including washing the tools and my hands as well as cleaning the trucks inside again. Did it myself too, althaugh an extra set of hands is always a plus. Hopefully no more raining on the inside.
 
  #25  
Old 03-19-2010, 05:05 PM
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Just followed this guide to switch from a sliding rear window to a solid one piece, and the whole process was quick and easy. My dumbass managed to snap the head off one of the bolts when tightening everything back down. I doubt it'll leak any though.
 
  #26  
Old 03-20-2010, 01:52 AM
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Glad to see some people using the writeup!
It stopped mine for awhile and now the third brake light is leaking
But that should be an easier fix.
 
  #27  
Old 03-21-2010, 11:15 PM
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hope to get this knocked out soon, tired of seeing water on the inside of my truck.
 
  #28  
Old 03-23-2010, 05:31 PM
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i need to do mine too..tired of that horrible smell after it rains!
 
  #29  
Old 08-05-2010, 11:04 PM
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Small detail, but I've been informed that in order to remove the rear seat from a '98 model, you must remove two 10mm bolts from the bottom of the seat back. Not sure what other years this covers, but I would think at least '97-'98.
 
  #30  
Old 08-05-2010, 11:10 PM
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yeah, on my 01 i just had to lift straight up
 


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