OK i just got a 500/1. I'm going to be adding it to my 300/4. I bought a JL 2 Guage wiring kit for two amps and it comes with a 250A fuse. The 500/1 Recommends a 50A and the 300/4 recommends a 40A would a 100A fuse work good and give me good protection? Also i'm hooking it up to a 12" type-r. I need help tuning the 500/1 i have no idea where to start. The Q and all those adjustments are confusing.

Also i know this thing signal senses. I have a Pioneer AVIC-D3. Should i run the front pre-amp from the headunit to the 500/1 and use the 500/1 for the bass tuning and then use the 500/1 preamp to give the 300/4 the front signal. I could also use signal senseing to turn the 500/1 on and then run a remote wire from the 500/1 to the 300/4 and i wouldn't need a remote wire from the D3.

Is all of this correct??
Thanks Alot!
Trent Kammerer

 

I think you would find it much more convenient to run a 100 amp circuit breaker (the marine style, or reputable brand like stinger) to a non-fused power block and then run separate runs to each amp, adding a capacitor in between the block and the mono amp. This allows two things, one you can disable the entire system from the battery if needed without having to remove the fuse, and two if it trips for some reason (which it will) you're not running around in the middle of the night looking for maxi-fuses. Circuit breakers are also more forgiving than fuses when the initial spike of 12 volts hits it. Fuses (especially the glass ones) elements inside tend to flex and eventually break, hence the midnight run to walmart to try and find a fuse that just sold out 5 minutes before you got there. Good luck.
I believe if you read JL's recommendation, they say only use the signal sense if a remote turn on lead is not available. A remote turn on lead is as simple as running a fuse tap ( the kind that actually gives you an accessory fuse slot and plugs into the oem fuse slot) and running the output from that to the remote turn on slot at the amp.