First of all hello and thanks in advance to anyone who reads this post. I am a current owner of a 1997 f-150 4.2L. As most would call it a mechanics special. Its been a pain in my butt most of my ownership of it,but i love my Truck. I am a drive way mechanic who learns as i go and ive learned alot from my explorer with almost 320,000 miles that im proud of,but im darn stumped right now. About 2 months ago The f-150 started to run fine for about 30 minutes plus then after shutting off it wouldnt start again for quite a time normally 40 minutes later, So i started replacing parts with really not knowing the issue. I started with the coil pack with no luck, then i replaced the fuel filter and Fuel pump last night thought i had the issue nipped in the butt,but it did it again on me late last night, i had it running prolly 30 minutes, Then i shut it off and restarted. I did this prolly 7 times in a row with no issues. I knew i was running low on gas and with my happiness that i actually fixed the issue i was going to take it to the gas station....untill i turned the key and it would start. When i say wont start i mean its cranking,but its not firing up. I thought maybe i ran it out of gas,but it fired right up this morning. I really an a hard headed Italian and i cant convince myself on taking it to the shop. If anyone has had this issue before or might be able to help me out on this i will truly be in you debt. Thanks again Ryan

 

CEL on? Codes? Checked the fuel pressure at the rails?

 

Nope on the CEL, only code was ever thrown was a EGK?? maybe thats what it was called. I replaced that first, but i havent gotten a tool to Check fuel pressure on rail. I figured if i replace Fuel filter and pump i could bypass that step.

 

Ryan, respectfully, if you can't come up with any leads, we can't either.
There are to many sources for a no start problem.
You have to do some testing rather than just try to get lucky by changing parts and racking up expense.
First thing you need is to know what happens during a hot restart if cold start is ok.
Find out if you have spark and fuel at cranking to pin it one one or the other.
Have you looked for codes?
Good luck.

 

Starter solenoid switch - the one on the firewall near the battery ??

 

Your totally right Blue grass and i can handle criticism, i should have done more research with this issue before i started replacing parts, but working a mostly seasonal job things at work started to pick up and i just started replacing parts hoping i would hit the right one, i have talked to many people about this issue and it seems everyone has a different thought and with no codes i havent had much to go on. I was hoping a current owner might have had this issue before or someone out there would be nice enough to help steer me in the right direction.

 

Heck at least you thought to ask, and described the symptoms, but we need more tips man. It's like csi, gotta have clues.

 

I would be happy to steer you but in what direction do you want to go?
Make some basic tests to get a direction. please*
Get under and pull the crank sensor plug and reseat it to be sure it's not loose and temp sensitive.
Everything begins at that point for PCM operation, fuel and ignition, once the motor begins to crank over.

Good luck.

 

More to add, -

Hard to say, -I'd check pressure at the rail as well, -confirm the regulator isn't over pressurizing the rail. When that occurs or is marginal, she won't fire until the pressure bleeds off a bit.

Put your hand on the relay when it's giving you trouble. A warm or hot pump relay usually = defective.

 

Bump. Lotta smart minds in this thread. Is there by chance you can see if there is a pattern to its cut-off point? IE time or coolant temp or anything.

 

You can borrow/rent a fuel pressure gauge at a parts store. It connects to the Schrader valve on the fuel rail. When you turn on the key, it should prime to (I believe) at least 28 psi. I believe normal operating pressure is around 40 psi.

Important question - is it using coolant? The 97 and early 98 4.2's have defective lower intake and front cover gaskets, this actually causes coolant to get into the cylinders which can lead to a hydrolock.

 

Just a bit of a update. Today i went out to start the truck and take it for a short stroll to get the engine hot and i noticed that it was dripping fuel. Great another issue, So i jack it up and get under and see that it is leaking from the nylon line going into the fuel filter i purchase a new line repair kit,but it isn't working.Has anyone ever replaced the short fuel line from the metal line that is coming from the (its the line that runs with the frame)motor to the fuel pump? I went to the auto parts store and talked to a few people that worked there and they kept pointing me to the same nylon line that i already owned. The original nylon line is old and when i try to add the adapter into it it just cracks.

 

Yea, nylon lines have been discontinued on our trucks. Thanks Ford! But, Rock Auto had the good kits. Well, they use to. 3/8's and 5/16". I believe you shove the ends into boiling water, - then cram either a hose barb or the new and much improved filter connection fitting. Which ever you need.

Also, if there's enough of the existing nylon hose left and it's in half way decent shape. You can use a heat gun on that to install a barb fitting and go from there.

I know where that broke and if there's nothing left of that nylon line, - it's going to be a PITA. There's a lot of hard-line bends that follow that little fairy line.

There's about 3 ways to go right to the hardline. Flange, Compression or shove some rubber 5/16 over the HL and double clamp. That works well as long as it doesn't kink.

Anyway, see what Rock Has.


BTW-Not just any old rubber if you go that route.- FI hose(Goodyear J30R9)and FI clamps.