Synthetic Myth or Fact?
They use an Impact lol ? Or was that a figure of speech ? Yea, I know their a PITA first time around.
They only time going Fully Synthetic can be dangerous is when upgrading in higher mileage engines.
Engines brought up on Mineral and Semi-synthetic grades can have a certain amount of sludge build up in crankcase and elsewhere. Full Synthetic has a higher cleaning attribute which may break to much free at one time compromising other internal areas.
You can still switch,- if you feel the need, but you should flush the crank-case first.
It's allot easier and cheaper sticking with the recommended Motorcraft oil IMO. She's plenty protected
Engines brought up on Mineral and Semi-synthetic grades can have a certain amount of sludge build up in crankcase and elsewhere. Full Synthetic has a higher cleaning attribute which may break to much free at one time compromising other internal areas.
You can still switch,- if you feel the need, but you should flush the crank-case first.
It's allot easier and cheaper sticking with the recommended Motorcraft oil IMO. She's plenty protected
i find it easy to get the first filter off, take a 3/8" ratchet, about a 12" extension, and a oil filter tool called a spider http://ultralightsparkplugs.com/prod.../11/2507-1.jpg
Good luck with that, -To much bologna and controversy from the past for that manufacturer, -that would make Mobil 1 the worst possible choice IMO. Their oil has tested bad, that might not be the oil your purchasing, but it's a the simple fact that some of their oil has. I wouldn't chance a $30,000 (or so) investment on it, - specially when there's no reason for it.
You going to run Fram filters as well?
You going to run Fram filters as well?
The Mobil 1 EP is a quality oil - the only Mobil 1 that's under question is the standard grade 5W30.
The GP 3 synthetics don't cause problems in high mileage engines - its the PAO's. Those you have to be careful with.
The GP 3 synthetics don't cause problems in high mileage engines - its the PAO's. Those you have to be careful with.
BS. You can use full synthetic as long as it meets Ford specs. 5W20 is the correct grade. However, don't switch to it till your SECOND oil change. Have the DEALER do the first change with standard Motorcraft 5W20 semi-synthetic, then after that, do what you want. Reason for having the dealer do the first change? Ford uses some gorilla named Bubba with an impact wrench to screw the oil filters on at the factory. It's very difficult to remove.
That's not the reason I suggested to wait till the 2nd change - the reason is that you should use the dealer for the first change due to the filter issue. No reason to try to get the dealer to use anything but their standard oil.
They only time going Fully Synthetic can be dangerous is when upgrading in higher mileage engines.
Engines brought up on Mineral and Semi-synthetic grades can have a certain amount of sludge build up in crankcase and elsewhere. Full Synthetic has a higher cleaning attribute which may break to much free at one time compromising other internal areas.
You can still switch,- if you feel the need, but you should flush the crank-case first.
It's allot easier and cheaper sticking with the recommended Motorcraft oil IMO. She's plenty protected
Engines brought up on Mineral and Semi-synthetic grades can have a certain amount of sludge build up in crankcase and elsewhere. Full Synthetic has a higher cleaning attribute which may break to much free at one time compromising other internal areas.
You can still switch,- if you feel the need, but you should flush the crank-case first.
It's allot easier and cheaper sticking with the recommended Motorcraft oil IMO. She's plenty protected
Ah ok, my mistake. I bet they don't put oil on the filter gasket, its not that they crank it down-its just on there dry.






