any info would be great for me. My pickup transmission seams to slip when it is under load, such as going up a hill down the highway. was just wondering if that would be the clutch

 

Yep. Clutch time. It's not adjustable.

 

Well it is adjustable... but not in that sense. What I mean by that is the fact that the clutch adjusts according to the pad wear.

You are well beyond what it's threshold is, thus you need new friction material.

I would highly recommend CenterForce, and get HD friction material and get a new flywheel while you are at it.

As far as cost, you are look at about $1,000 as a ball park... and about a day without your truck - depending on where you take it. If you take it to a regular transmission/converter shop, they might have you in and out within a 1/2 a day since it's a fairly common practice. That is if they have the parts... like if you were to buy the exact parts needed to do the job, and told them, "Here, you install this stuff..." But if you rely on them to do it, I'd call them ahead of time and have them get you what you need and then drive your truck over there... as it's not going to do much more than wear down whatever you got left.

If that's one thing I like about manual transmissions is that they hardly ever leave you totally stranded or without a vehicle. Not to mention it's helped me out when my starter went out one day, just turn the key, push the truck, drop in 1st, pop the clutch, starts right up.

 

you can put your own clutch in, ive done them on other cars before, cant be too hard on the F150.

also easiest way to see if your clutch is bad, start the truck, put it in 5th, and let off the brake, if the engine doesnt die then the clutch is bad. If it does die do it in 4th, and it will give you an idea of how close you are to needing the new clutch.

 

I'd recommend an OEM clutch, not aftermarket heavy duty, unless you normally haul big loads and tow a lot. I have one in mine and it chatters big time unless I have a big load.

New flywheel not required, just get yours pulled and resurfaced on a bench grinder.

The hardest part of doing a clutch job on a 150 is getting the trans in and out - it has to be rotated 90 degrees. Drain the tranny fluid first. Get a complete kit, on our trucks the slave cylinder is integral with the throwout bearing.

 

But the friction material on the OEM to me feels sort of slippery... but it's just my opinion.

Well... about the flywheel... wouldn't the heat from the constant slipping cause heat warp to the flywheel? (Hence why I said buy a new one...)

 

That's why you use a bench grinder - those tables let you get it completely true.

I dunno about you, but I'd rather have a soft clutch engagement than getting my teeth rattled every time. When I'm done moving and take the trailer back to my friend, I'm seriously considering replacing the Brute Power that's in there with a new OEM kit.

 

I see where you are coming from.

As far as the clutch engagement, I don't care whether it chatters or not... it my own personal preference. I mean if it will last 50k longer, I'll take it... even if it is bothersome.

 

Make sure to replace the internal slave cylinder while your at it. An oem clutch with a reconditioned flywheel will last over 100k miles so thats the way I'd go. I've done it before on a 90 F150 4x4 I had. I would not do it again especially on a 4x4 its worth paying a shop $500 to do it. Those tranny/transfer case's are huge. Not a job for the average backyard mechanic..

 

I'm getting concerned about beating the tranny and motor mounts to death.