I just read through this, it sounds like a cool build. I'm more of a street-truck person myself, so reading this is more for curiosity and enjoyment than practical info; but that being said it looks like you're doing a very profession job! Keep up the good work, and I can't wait to see how it comes out!

 

Just like a lot of my woodworking projects which you guys don't get to see here, I step through the process somewhat slowly when it is something that isn't well documented anywhere else. I like being able to help people avoid the bumps I find in projects...

 

Okay latest update here. I have finished up with making the clearance cuts, and it fits around everything as it should, pushed up into place it appears I am further forward / closer to the front bumper than the orignal / inspiration truck, and with some CAREFUL nudging, I should completely clear the tranny cooler lines.

The mounting holes have been drilled, although I might have utterly destroyed a $12.00 drill bit in the process, such is life... I need to dig up my sharpening jig for my bench grinder to see if I can bring this thing back from the dead...

I have glopped on enough epoxy primer, and paint to keep this thing from EVER rusting, which is a good thing...

At this point, the mount is in the shop with the paint drying and curing. the winch is on the bench, and I am ready to connect the two. I need to get my shop clear NOW because I have an electrician coming in next week to run a sub panel and circuits to my shop (finished garage) and I need to have the drywall ripped out before he shows up... I am going to bag up the loose parts, assemble the plate to the winch, and with some help, scoot it into the corner until I can mount it up.

 

The paint is now dry. I have bolted the winch to the mount, fed the cable through the fairlead slot in the mount, and am ready to slot the bumper for the fairlead. that, however, will likely have to wait.

At the point I am at, if I had help NOW to finish this up there is probably about 2 more hours of work on it. Measuring and marking the bumper for the cuts / drills, doing the actual cutting and drilling, using some brush on primer and paint to seal where the cuts are, and of course wait time, then bolting the fairlead into place. I need to buy a few washers. The bumper is curved, the fairlead is designed for a FLAT surface. I was planning on shimming it with 1 washer between the fairlead and the bumper. That should be sufficient. Once that is done, jack the winch into place, making "adjustments" as needed to the trans cooler lines. I am very tempted to get new ones made by the machine shop that would put the trans cooler line way out of the way, but want to try with the originals. Once it is in place, bolted down, and securely fastened with the tow hooks and brush guard mounts in place, I need to remove the bottom tube of the brush guard, get plugs welded into the uprights, and get a new tube welded on 2" below original location, and then bolt it back up. Due to some damage I didn't notice before I started the project, I need to replace at least 1 of my lights. I will probably just grab a pair so they match, and have a good go at it. Finish that up, get the cable through the fairlead, install the hook, make the wiring connections, and then find a tree to pull the truck to... Finally run the cable to the tow hook, and install the license plate bracket on the fairlead...

I have shop work that needs to happen NOW though. I have an electrician I am paying to be at my house next Friday, and my garage walls need to be down to the studs so that he can run the sub panel, and circuits. That means band saw, lathe, dust collector and sawhorses need to be moved... The remaining area is a mess. Will spend tomorrow night cleaning, Saturday is spent with my wife, Sunday we move the equipment and start ripping rock down. This shouldn't take long, but I want to do it cleanly. Once this project is done, I insulate, and re-rock that wall, move everything back to where it came from, and then start moving the crap from the other side over, so I can rip THAT sheetrock down... Somewhere in all of this I need to get the winch install finalized, and get new shocks, tires, and alignment on my truck...

 

I am at a BAD point in the build. I need to drill 1/2" holes in the bumper for the roller fairlead, but my only drill with a 1/2" chuck is my floor model drill press...

I either need to borrow a 1/2" drill, or go to Harbor Freight and buy one and pray it lasts through the job...

 

I wanna see this done already the wait is killing me ha, cant you just buy a 1/2" but for a smaller chuck it would be cheaper than buying a cheap drill just to do 2 holes.

 

I might have just solved my own problem. The DeWalt DW1332 Ti coated 1/2" drill bit appears at least in it's promotional photo, to have a reduced shank. With any luck this will chuck up to my 3/8" hand held power drill! I might just have something for you guys over the weekend! My local Lowes has that bit in stock! I am NOT looking forward to forcing this thing into place, but I figure I am on the right track....

 

I now know for a fact I have several people watching this thread as a couple have responded here, and even more have visited here, and PM'ed me on a forum I moderate (a woodworking forum), so I guess I keep up the level of detail best I can...

My electrical install has been postponed due to budget cuts. Not mine, but my electricians companies. They had some budget cuts which reduced available man hours and required some rescheduling, for a week, so I have naked walls and no electrician. On the plus side, the inspector is good to go when we need him, so I am happy there...

I am planning on a quick side trip to Lowes on the way home to pick up that DeWalt drill bit. I will take a 3/8" chuck drill off the shelf and see if the bit will chuck up before checking out... I glanced at the Milwaulkee bit I have thinking it would work... I was wrong.

I have ordered the license plate bracket for the roller fairlead from Quadratech. I had good results with them when I had my Jeep.... Amazon and other retailers were sold out, or double the price, so I guess Quadratech it is!

My plan of action to complete the project is thus...

#1. Pick up bit, and metal cutting jig saw blade.
#2. Remove clips holding rollers in place, remove rollers from fairlead and bag them and the clips together.
#3. Line up fairlead center, and level on bumper, using a sharpie, clearly mark the locations for the mounting holes, and the location for the cable slot.
#4. Using a center punch, a hammer, eye and hearing protection dimple the bumper in the center of where the holes are to be. I use the dimples to guide the drill bit, keep it from walking.
#5. Marking off 1/4"x1/4" in toward the centerfrom each corner of the cable slot repeat process as above.
#6. Chuck up the 1/2" bit, and drill away material for each hole, cutting slowly, and keeping the bit lubricated as I drill with some threading oil.
#7. Using angle grinder / cutoff wheel combo cut horizontal slots connecting the drilled fairlead slot holes.
#8. Using my rotary tool, and a fresh pack of cut off wheels, cut slots to connect the fairlead slot holes vertically.
#9. Using a mill file, clean up any and all rough edges from the drilling and slotting operation.
#10. Thoroughly clean the bumper.
#11. Using a small brush, apply epoxy primer to exposed, uncoated metal surfaces. Wait until cured.
#12. Using a small brush apply gloss black enamel paint to now primered surfaces. Wait until cured.
#13. Reassemble the rollers and clips onto the fairlead frame.
#14. Bolt the fairlead to the bumper.
#15. Using scrap 4x4 and 2x4 timber, create a riser for my floor jack.
#16. Using floor jack, riser, jack stands, and a helper (that is what is going to take a bunch of time to get), position the winch in place under the frame. Gently adjusting trans cooler and lines as needed.
#17. Position components from bottom to top, tow hook, brush guard mount bracket, winch plate in line and pass bolts through, threading bolts to thread inserts (CAREFULLY so as not to lose the thread insert into the frame rails again...).
#18. Once winch / winch plate assembly is fully in position, feed cable through fairlead and attach hook.
#19. route cables and make battery connections.
#20 double check bolt tightness.
#21. Attach strap to tree in front yard.
#22. pull truck out into street, verifying that no neighbors are out and about, pull truck down about 2 houses, pay out cable to connect to strap.
#23. Connect winch remote.
#24. Start truck, put in neutral, and pull the truck to the tree (almost), using the winch.
#25. Disconnect from tree, place hook in tow hook / look and pay cable in until just taut.
#26. Put up strap, park truck.
#27. Come onto forum and show off completed project.
#28. Proceed to probably not ever get stuck again now that I am prepared...

 

Update:

Have the fairlead mounted, and the winch on the plate, just need to jab the winch in, and wire it up now!



The hole is nothing pretty, but it works... Not thrilled about the plastic trim supports being back there. Had to cut them out. Might have plastic trim vibrate on me now... Oh well...



Please take notice that my fairlead is centered on the bumper, and level. The guy with the Dodge RAM that inspired me to cut the bumper, well... his install wasn't so level... Please ignore the onion skin bald tires. My next items are tires / shocks... I am actually considering dropping down to 33x12.50/17s instead of the 35x, I am concerned about the weight of the winch causing a rub. I will swap the rears in place and take for a drive, flex it up and see if I can make it rub...



I made sure to face the warning sticker on the fairlead UP to make sure folks can read it...



From a side view, the angle is slightly downward due to the shape of the bumper, but it IS within reason, and close enough to the output of the winch cable that I doubt there will ever be any issues even with the most drastic pull angles...

 

looks good man. i made one up for myself a few years ago as well. its a fun project but i just made my own custom plate instead of buying one. but i do like how yours turned out.

 

The Harbor Freight plate was on sale, with the 20% off coupon. I couldn't even get the raw steel for what I paid for this...

 

Okay the winch mount project has run into a couple of show stopper type problems.

Issue #1. Engage / disengage lever for clutch runs into the transmission cooler support.
Issue #2. Motor runs into the passenger side bumper mount (frame section).
Issue #3. The cross rods for the drum just barely contact the radiator center support.

This leaves me with a couple of options, some better than others.

Option #1. Relocate the transmission cooler, fabbing custom brackets, and hoses, provide custom bending on the center support for clearance, and carving away at that frame horn to clear the motor. I do NOT like this option. Yes I could relocate the mount holes, again, not a great option, and would pose problems on the other side. I can now clearly see why the body lift guys can get away with it, and I can't...

Option #2. Mile Marker or Go Rhino stainless steel brush guard / winch mount. Cost about $1,200.00 after S&H, looks pretty decent. Still keeps the Pro Comp lights exposed.

Option #3. Tactical Armor Group wincher bumper with shackle mounts, and light buckets for my Pro Comps... Add a set of 55 watt 5" floods as outers wired to the OEM harness if doable. At least reuse the OEM switch. Cost about $1,000.00 after lights, S&H, and supplies to PTM and clear the thing. The only drawback I see to this is the TAG bumper upper corners aren't cut to match the profile of the factory fenders, so they look a little funny. I can see if TAG can custom cut mine, or I can do it myself.

Like I mentioned, option #1. is just unattractive due to the cutting of the frame issue. I just am not willing to go there.

Option #2 is nice, but would require me to swap out my nerf bars for stianless ones to get the look right...

I am leaning HEAVILY toward option #3. This would give me an opportunity to use my HF HVLP, and try my hand and custom spraying in prep for my 2 tone job... Give me a good chance to learn if I stink at it or not... I know I can rattle can the job.

So for now, the DIY hidden mount is a scrapped idea. It might work with a different winch, but not the Engo...

 

I'm disappointed this project got scrapped. I have had it book marked because this was my planned project after my lariat conversion. Do you have pics showing the problem areas when trying to mount the winch?

Would that winch mount plate be able to mount along with a brushguard? If your scrapping project, what are you planning on doing with that winch mount youve already modified?

 

I'm tempted to just get a winch and then see how to custom fab it to the truck with all that I got going on in the front.

 

I think if I would have been able to drop the plate say 1/2" or so, I would have been able to squeeze the winch in there. Interference with the clutch wasn't a problem, it was the winch motor and spool itself, and literally, by 1/4"...

I gave up on this project, although I have a product / design idea from it. Like I said, drop the bottom a hair. Biggest problem would have been the solenoid on my winch... so relocating the solenoid..

I did get the winch installed using a Go Rhino brush guard / winch mount. It was every bit what I wanted, winch mount, and fresh brush guard that followed the lines of the truck well (very much unlike the Warn, which I know is renowned for quality, but is bug ugly... at least in my taste.)


I am thinking if a guy was good with welding, leave the HF winch channel plate intact, and weld some 1/4" plate steel across the tops where it would be attached to the frame, cut your holes, and voila! You would have the clearance you would need to run this style winch, at least assuming Solenoid relocation that is...

I think the plate I cut and drilled would work great, on a body lifted truck, but to me, the brush guard is pretty critical... So no body lift here...