Resurrecting an old thread.....

Has anyone had longterm success with this fix? I am having problems with my parking brake and don't want to pay to get the dealer to fix it, just wondering if lubing the part indicated at the start of this thread will help fix the issue.

 

A few members posted that here was actually a TSB for this problem if still under warranty anyone know what the TSB number is ?

 

It has been a permanent cure on my truck.

 

Tyson do you have the TSB number other talk about for this ?

 

Good to hear, as soon as my new parking brake shoes come in, I'll get it put back together with the lubed up cam. I got mine apart a couple days ago and the driver's side shoes were disintegrated, and the cam was frozen half open.

 

My parking brake is also shot. Haven't really had a use for it. I used to use it daily habit as I've mainly driven manual trans cars, trucks till this one.

But I am going to be doing brakes soon...

Is it best to fix replace the parking brakes or just leave them as they are?

 

I don't see why you wouldn't do it, the cam getting frozen is easy to fix.

Since most folks here are young, they probably don't have any experience working on drum brakes. The only snag with drum brakes is that you have to loosen or back off the adjuster in order to remove the drum, in this case the drum/rotor. If you aren't familiar with this just look it up. A couple of special tools will make it a lot easier.

 

Thanks I've got all that!

I'm 31 so in my mind still young! A 1968 Plymouth Barracuda taught me ALL about drum brakes seeing as it has them in the front and rear. No power assist either....

I guess while I'm in there I may as well replace everything then.

 

Bet you wish that you still had that Cuda. I had a 68 RoadRunner, 383, green and black, 4 speed, Cragars. Learned more than I wanted to know about drum brakes, they pull to one side no matter how carefully you adjust them. I have to admit I much prefer the 00 Mustang GT to that old RR as far as speed comfort and handling, but that old RR would be worth big money now. If I hadn't a wrecked it.

 

You need to change the rear diff fluid. Pull the diff cover and remove the center pin. The axle can be pushed into the housing and out of the brake rotor. This will not free the drum section from the shoes. If the adjuster just will not minimze enough to get by a rust lip/ridge, pry the rotor/drum out as far as possible. Cut the pins retaining the shoes to the backing plate. You will need a hack saw blabe, triangular file or a mighty grip on diagnal cutters to cleave the pin. This will free some space to tug, pull, pry, and a few other expletives to remove the rotor/drum. Obviously I have skipped steps, but I was not atempting to describe a brake change. Good luck and let the #$(*ing @#(^ hit the fan.

David

 

I have the same problem with the parking brake, anyone have a link to where I can buy the new levers on page 1. Thanks

 

hmm well my leveler broke apart on the passenger side, any idea how much damage I could be looking at? I bought the parking brake assembly kit as well as a leveler to fix that side for now and then do the otherside another day. Is there any chance anyone has a writeup on installing the parking brake assembly kit with all the springs and clamps?

 

I have a 2000 f150. My parking brake pedal only moves about 1 inch when pushed. It doesnt hold at all. I checked the cable (on the drivers side) and when I press the pedal it does take out the slack and it loosens slightly when I release. Im guessing the problem lies in the drum somewhere. Any thoughts?

 

Blowing the dust off in hopes of a quick answer.

My right rear brake was actually smoking tonight when I got home with that awful burnt metal smell to boot. I've pulled the rotor off and it barely shows any sign of wear as it should.. I never use my parking brake.

At this point I'm at a loss as to what the heck is going on but does anyone know if the shoes will move equally if the cam is worked by hand with the rotor off? The front shoe moves with no problem but the rear shoe just sits there.

The caliper/pads were a little tight but I see no excessive wear on the pads, so I don't think it is a stuck caliper either.

 

hello all, i have a problem with my ebrake cable. Is the right cable housing suppose to move free in the holder on the left side where it hooks up to the other two cables? My problem started when i backed up. It felt like I hit something. Then the truck wouldn't go backwards. I found the cables was froze. So i replaced both cables.Got everything freed up. The ebrake doesn't work. The right cable housing moves free. This don't seem right to me. any one tell me if i am missing something?