If there are no 'specific' fault codes, some of the PIDs are just not test complete.
Most 'readers' will not show a code 1000 as this code does not light the CEL.
PCM testing of the EVAP system is quite long and involved.
The testing is for small leaks, large leaks, sensor operations, hoses, solenoids, fuel cap and is fuel level sensitive.
With age these tests take longer.
All this involves drive cycles and many test conditions to be present so the time gets long because you can't control much of it.
Most emmisions testing will excuse the EVAP due to the test time issue that nothing can be done about unless there is a specific fault code causing the long test time.
At this point I don't know if you have a fault or just the EVAP test is taking a long time to complete.
I know mine does take a long time once triggered but it eventually clears and does not come back unless the PCM gets rebooted by power down or a code clear action.
Good luck..

 

Bluegrass, sounds like you understand what I am trying to do, pass emissions. I totally understand that these systems can take a long time to run and that the vehicle has to be driven in certain parameters to get them to run. I do have the drive cycle requirements and have tried to drive the vehicle under these parameters, but obviously to no avail. I also understand that the EVAP system can take a long time to run. I have talked to people that have drove there vehicle anywhere from 300 to 1,500 miles waiting for EVAP to be ready.

My main problem right now is that it won't pass emissions in Utah w/two systems being not ready and I am already into a registration temporary extension which will expire soon. So with that, I am being pressed for time to get one of these systems to become ready.

If I was to scan the vehicle only to see two systems not ready with no additional information, I might feel better about just driving it and letting them become ready in time. But in my case I get the following information displayed under the system test information:

OBDMID $11 Fail
Test ID $01
0000 NOT>=0200
0000 <=FFFF
HO2S11 - Voltage Amplitude - Bank 1 - Sensor 1

So with not knowing exactly what this means except that it deals with the O2sensor along with the fact that the catalyst system isn't ready, it makes me think there is something else wrong with the vehicle than just driving it will fix.

Many of the replies to my original post reference the EVAP system, but what about the catalyst system? How long does that usually take to become ready? Other than taking it to Ford and having it ran across there diagnostic machine, I really am at a loss for troubleshooting and don't know what more I can do.

Additionally, I really don't care which system becomes ready, just as long as one of them does so I can get it reinspected soon.

Thanks in advance - Jeff

 

He understands, I understand now. Confused that you didn't just ask or say that right off.

Your monitors have to run and clear as I explained earlier. For some reason, your ignoring or not bothering to question what you truly do not understand.

Now if you would have went to the Ford Company Drive Cycle Link that was posted to help you, you might understand. The EVAP and Cataylst monitors are the last to complete. You can speed that up by going to the link that's been posted for your benefit.

Just listen and tell it like it is, - you'll get help here. So, - if you want to pass emissions in a hurry, go to the link and complete the drive cycle to ready/complete the slower monitors.

 

BTW- I would still opt for a cheap scanner if I were you. They all show the readyness monitors. What has ran and what has not. You just hit the little arrow button on the right.

 

Why do you keep reposting things I already know? I stated that I already knew that the EVAP and Catalyst monitors were the last to complete and that I already performed the drive cycle and it did nothing for me. Obviously something else is preventing the EVAP and Catalyst from becoming ready and I tend to believe it stems from the information that I posted. BTW, I am not ignoring anything and why would I buy a cheap scanner when I already have a good one?

 

An answer to your questions. Not that it's going to help now. But who knows.

1. You have a scanner that's obviously to advanced for you to set up or read.
2. You don't know a number of things about your specific problem and that hasn't changed, unfortunately.
3. Recent development. Apparently, you can't even perform the Drive cycle procedure correctly. There is another one you can try, but you just burned that bridge.
4. Your in the same boat you were in when you started this thread.
5. I could go on, but I'm sure you know the rest.

What you really know? You won't pass emissions? I agree, you got that right.

Alright buddy, I give up.

Good Luck all the same.

 

Sorry, did I hurt your feelings?

 

First, a standard scanner should show you the code for the upstream OX sender on the passenger side according to your diagnostic readout.
I can't tell if it's a signal voltage indication, or a heater voltage indication.
A good scanner can look at the live data from that sensor and tell what is going on reguardless of the code. The scanner also tells the same info the inspection station sees so you know which systems to look at the live data from.
That is the trouble to fix so you can get your inspection.
Could be the sensor or the harness.
Or could be telling about a fault in another part of the system that it has reacted to and set a code.
Again, the drive cycles to pass all the tests is too complex for you to drive and control. A dealer tech can't even do it.
For example suppose you lived in NYC, how would you meet all the driving test parameters of the drive cycle for speed vs time, accelleratons etc.
You can't, but to drive and let the system find the parameters.
I think your being a bit to firm about how your looking at the problem.
Get some one who has a scanner and knows how to use it to see what the story is. The test system you have is not helping you.
I can't help you more than this.
Good luck.

 

Feelings? Did you think I was writing you love letters? Yea, you have more problems than you know.

 

I attempting to pass smog in NV on a 30 day temp tag. I got a p0401 reading and I found broken wires on the egr pressure sensor. I repaired the wires cleared the PCM now I'm just waiting for the evap to be complete. It really sux!!! I know how you feel being on a limited amount of time waiting on a stupid evap to finish a cycle.....pain in the a$$ I know the elevation can get over 8000ft in UT. This is an old post but maybe it will help someone in the future.

 

It is unlikely you need all monitors to be complete. Check your emissions testing standards for the specifics for your particular vehicle.

 

They funny thing is I agree with the OP. I have the exact issue as far as the Evap and Catalyst showing INC on my Actron OBDII Reader.

I've followed the Ford Drive Cycles to the T and they still wont clear the INC. I live in Calif and can only have 1 INC. My smog guys says, it doesn't matter which one, but I can't have 2 INC's.

My Expy runs smooth with no missing. The only thing is that my Temp Gauge stays around 1/4. I've pulled my Toy hauler and it never gets past 1/4. I heard someone replace the Thermostat on a Tacoma and their INC's finally cleared. I just went to the Ford Dealer and got an OEM Thermo and gasket and replaced them. I did a quick run about 5 miles to see if the temp would get higher, but it never does.

Gonna drive it to work and back and see if this makes a diff with the new Thermo. Slightly frustrating, so I get exactly how the OP feels.

 

I am having the same issue with my 1997 f150.. I have no check engine lights and the smog station said everything was ready except the evap and cat. What should I do or check.

 

You just have to keep driving it till they achieve readiness.

 

I've been driving for a month and miles and miles.