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Front hubs and brakes 2001 7700 RWD 7 lug

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Front hubs and brakes 2001 7700 RWD 7 lug

 
  #1  
Old 12-05-2018, 09:14 PM
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Front hubs and brakes 2001 7700 RWD 7 lug

Ok so just to preface, this is my first post on this forum. I also have experience with other Ford breaks, hubs, and bearings. However, this is my dad's truck and I didn't realize it was an anomaly and he bought it used without any kind of manual.

So the context is it won't pass inspection due to front breaks and driver side front bearing. Everything seemed fine when I took it to the shop but sure enough I immediately noticed the noises on the way home. A month later a few hundred miles later and it's getting to the point where it really is a safety issue (constant whirling noise and really bad grinding coming to a stop). The shop quoted something like $700 for 1 bearing (he mentioned it was an assembly), both rotors, 2 sets of pads. I did this very same job on my 2004 F-250 4x4 last year and kept it around the $200-250 range so I figured I would save my dad a chunk of change and do it on his truck.

The issue is I can't figure out which parts I actually need on this thing. Specifically, is this 7 lug hub (on the rear wheel drive model) a sealed hub assembly like on my F250? I can't seem to find a bearing/hub assembly to fit the front end of a rear wheel drive model (plenty of options for the 4x4 though). I see that you can buy the bearings separately but that doesn't mean much since I saw the same for my other truck. I have also seen rotor hub assemblies that fit the front end of this truck. Is that what I'm looking for? Do those have the bearings already pressed in or do I need to do that on this setup?

So to clarify, I want to do the bearings, rotors, and pads on the front end of a 2001 F150 7700 RWD with 7 lug wheels. What parts do I actually need to accomplish this? Can anyone point me to a guide for this specific truck?

Thanks in advance.
 
  #2  
Old 12-05-2018, 09:56 PM
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2 or 4 wheel ABS?
 
  #3  
Old 12-05-2018, 10:46 PM
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glc
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Rotor and hub is an assembly. Bearings are separate. Races should already be pressed into the hubs.

Look here for rotor/hub assemblies, you need to know if it has 4 wheel ABS or rear wheel only ABS, and the build date, that's on the door jamb sticker.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...hub,rotor,1896

Pads are here:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...brake+pad,1684

Bearings are here:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...l+bearing,1672
 
  #4  
Old 12-06-2018, 09:10 AM
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Thanks for the replies.

I believe this truck is 4 wheel abs but I will check on that today.

The manufactured date on the door says 05/01 in Canada.

​If it helps (and if it's allowed) here's the VIN: 2FTPX17Z81CA80257​​​​​​

And here's a picture of the sticker:


The only other thing to note is this truck did have dual fuel LPG as indicated on the second sticker. That system was disconnected before my dad purchased it. I doubt that helps with the wheel info but figured I'd share.
 
  #5  
Old 12-06-2018, 10:59 AM
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I don't see that my response was posted or maybe it got removed for posting the VIN.

Anyways, thanks for your help glc. According to the VIN decoder on this site, it has 4 wheel ABS but I will double check the vehicle itself.
 
  #6  
Old 01-03-2019, 10:20 PM
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I've just started replacing the front brake pads on my 2000 7700# F150 RWD. The first thing I noted different that the online videos was two Torx bolts that appear to hold the caliper to the bracket. And, there are two rubber boots for the Torx bolts, one between the head and the caliper, and another between the caliper and the bracket. I removed the Torx bolts but the caliper didn't seem to want to move. Is there anything else that holds it in position? And, once the caliper is removed, will the pad removal/replacement be straight forward?
 
  #7  
Old 01-04-2019, 09:08 AM
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It was easier for me to take off the entire caliper bracket and then remove the caliper itself. The Torx head got me too but they were easy enough to back off with some vice grips. They weren't that tight.

Also, the inner and outer boots are one long boot that goes through the bracket. I went ahead and replaced mine.

My brake pads were a little harder to get in place than normal. I'm not sure what I was doing wrong. The old ones fell out on me so I didn't see the best way to get them in and out. What was stopping me from getting mine seated was the noise indicator thing that warns you when the pads get low. For whatever reason they were getting caught on either the caliper or the lip of the hole where the guide pin threaded in (if I remember correctly) depending which way I was trying to put them in. I simply just broke the noise indicator off and it fit much easier. I wasted a good 30 minutes trying to find a way around breaking them off.

Only other thing I can think to mention is the ends of the pads are different and use different clips so pay attention to how they were before you pull them out.

I can go check the Torx size if you need. I ended up buying new pins and the right size Torx bit for my ratchet so I didn't have to use the grips on the new pins.
 
  #8  
Old 01-04-2019, 12:07 PM
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Thanks for the information. I believe the Torx is a 47 since a 45 was a bit loose (but got it off) and a 50 was too big. I'll try the caliper bracket first. Is it necessary to then separate the caliper from the bracket to do the pads?
 
  #9  
Old 01-05-2019, 10:40 AM
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It would probably be too difficult to get the pads in place with the caliper still in the bracket. It just seems easier to me to take it all apart. But then again maybe that caused some of my difficulty. I put the bracket back on first, then pads, then caliper. And the pads were so thick there was not any wiggle room at all even with the caliper completely collapsed. I also replaced the guide pins and boots so I had to take it apart anyways. I've only done a couple brake jobs on my own vehicle and find that those guide pin boots are always cracked or need to be cleaned and have fresh grease applied. And half of my pins seem to be a little rusty. So for an extra $10 I go ahead and swap them all out while I'm in there.
 
  #10  
Old 01-05-2019, 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by SneakyDuck View Post
It would probably be too difficult to get the pads in place with the caliper still in the bracket. It just seems easier to me to take it all apart. But then again maybe that caused some of my difficulty. I put the bracket back on first, then pads, then caliper. And the pads were so thick there was not any wiggle room at all even with the caliper completely collapsed. I also replaced the guide pins and boots so I had to take it apart anyways. I've only done a couple brake jobs on my own vehicle and find that those guide pin boots are always cracked or need to be cleaned and have fresh grease applied. And half of my pins seem to be a little rusty. So for an extra $10 I go ahead and swap them all out while I'm in there.
I wound up taking the entire assembly off and then separated the caliper from the bracket. Fortunately my pins moved freely and the boots were intact so they didn't need replacing. Thanks for your input.
 
 


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