cross drilled and slotted rotors or slotted?

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Old 09-03-2013, 02:15 PM
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Exclamation cross drilled and slotted rotors or slotted?

Like the title says. I'm redoing my entire brake system I've already replaced the master cylinder etc. I bought stainless steel hoses pads and new calipers. Which rotors are better for daily driving and occasionally spirited driving. Slotted amd crossed drilled or just slotted I hear slotted and drilled rotors crack and warp easy.
 
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Old 09-03-2013, 02:23 PM
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Unless you are racing and need the drilled and slotted rotors to dissipate heat, stock rotors are more than adequate. The slotted and drilled eat up pads quicker and do noting for normal use.

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Old 09-03-2013, 03:20 PM
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Tons and tons and tons of info on here on this very subject…do a search and you'll be reading until Christmas. Subject has literally been beat to death. A warning though…don't do a search unless you are prepared to for the cold hard truth. If you like slotted/drilled rotors cause you think they look cool or any other reason (I did), then get them. No true, measurable, "anything you'll be able to feel" performance gains to be found here. This debate will rage on like which oil is best.
 
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Old 09-03-2013, 03:33 PM
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Wow I think I made up my mind lol
 
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Old 09-03-2013, 04:08 PM
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You are going to get a wide variety of opinions on the issue, and I can only offer anecdotal evidence here, but here goes nothing...

I had discussed the issue with several mechanical and aerospace engineer friends of mine, and researched it prior to my decision to purchase drilled / slotted rotors. There are positives and negatives to each type of rotor. The particular rotors I selected, the Powerslots, appear to have a failure rate similar to the rest of the industry. The slots and drilled holes allow for greatly improved heat dissipation, and retaining a clean pad surface. Both of which are critical to braking performance. The disadvantages are reduced surface / friction area, and reduced mass. Which of course is a double edged sword. Lower mass = easier to stop, lower mass = less mass to absorb heat to dissipate.

Overall, after my research I decided, for my needs, the drilled / slotted rotors benefits outweigh the costs. In real world driving, carrying a load, in a hot climate, I have experienced absolutely zero brake fade with the slotted / drilled rotors. I could NOT say the same with solid rotors. Actual stopping distances of the Powerstop rotor / powerstop pad equipped truck as compared to OEM rotor / Wagner ThermoQuiet pad equipped truck are distinctly reduced.

The issue of longer term durability of such a radical rotor design in my usage has yet to be seen, however at least so far, they are dead on perfect.

A known issue with the braking system on 2004-up F150 at least, is the OEM solid rotors are notorious for warping. While reports of drilled / slotted rotors warping are out there, they are the exception, where with the solids they are the rule...

As always your mileage may vary, obey all traffic laws and ordinances... blah blah blah...
 
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Old 09-03-2013, 04:15 PM
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I completely agree with all that has been posted.....May I suggest...
Cryo treated rotors...

I run OEM replacement rotors that are cryogenically treated at Diversified Cryogenics, making them almost as hard as stainless steel- Applied Rotor Technology in California provides the same product- but I would not rely on their delivery as it is essentially a 1 person shop owned/run by a Boeing engineer who works back east, travels alot and works at ART on weekends the last of my phone conversations with him).
Both companies purchase the highest grade rotors made, laser mic them for quality, scrap the ones that are out of spec and cryogenically treat the good ones which are now almost as strong as stainless. DC's service, price and quality are excellent as well.
 
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Old 09-03-2013, 07:46 PM
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I want slotted rotors myself because, supposedly, they would help me keep the rotors cleaner when I am mudding. I would only get drilled and slotted if they had an excellent warranty and a great price. If not for my mudding hobby, I would probably just get OEM style rotors.
 
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Old 09-03-2013, 08:37 PM
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Thanks for the help guys. I get more help here than the pre 97 area. This will help me make my decision soon I am in meed of rotors bad. I'm hard on brakes my most recent padsonly lasted 13,000 miles amd the rotors.maybe40,000.
 
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Old 09-03-2013, 09:15 PM
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I'm thinking about getting these....http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pw...-150/year/1993 from summit.. I did some searching on here seems like people like the slotted rotors so still not sure what I'm going to get
 
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Old 09-03-2013, 10:39 PM
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I haven't had my Powerslots very long, but do some reading here, guys that are running them seem to be having really good results with them.
 
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Old 09-03-2013, 11:21 PM
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http://brakeperformance.com/brake-ro...ake-Rotors.php... these guys have a LIFETIME WARRANTY on their rotors
 
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Old 09-08-2013, 04:14 PM
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I'm about to replace my front rotors, Power Slot Cryo I, my experience is this: the life of the first pads was approximately 9000 km, the slots acted as a "brush" and before I knew it, was metal metal, I had to grind the rotors. I came back with new pads but with the previous rectification, the depth of the slots became less deep and the rose life.more about 13000 Km. Today must have traveled about 40,000 km in total, almost no slots, and pads can last about 18-20000 km, single use HAWK LTS pads. What has been said here is true, slots and drilled the pads wear very fast. I draw much attention these products ROTOR TECHNOLOGY, I will study them, alternatively, what I have so far almost decided is "Centric High Carbon Brake Rotors" rotors high carbon content, with vane curve which amplifies the cooling of the rotors, metallurgically with GS3500 grain for better and more quickly dissipate heat, cryogenically treated, and there are not slots or drilled. In my opinion, this is the best for us, and my truck is supercharged and tires 35 ", rough handling and I like that my truck quick stops. Also I have braided stainless steel lines and adjusted the actuator rod in the booster....
 
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Old 09-08-2013, 05:23 PM
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There are so many opinions on this matter all based on personal experiences. I have powerstop drilled and slotted with ZR16 ceramic pads. This is my second set. The first set lasted 65,000 miles. I still had pad left but I had a bearing race issue so I replaced both to be safe. My experience with them has been nothing but positive. Brake dust is minimal, Stopping distance while towing is greatly improved and brake fade left with the O.E. brakes. In aggressive driving such as a road course they are a must have as O.E. rotors will warp. Mountain driving is awesome for warping rotors as well. If you drive aggressive or tow my personal experiences says you should get the drilled and slotted. If you drive like an old fart or like your lost all the time O.E. should be fine. If you shop around, Ebay has a few sellers that will set you up for cheaper than the O.E. replacement. brakemotive (call them before you buy) and R1 concepts. I purchased mine from brakemotive both times. Great customer service and product. Just remember if you buy them they MUST be broken in correctly of they will give minimal improvement.
 
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Old 09-08-2013, 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by 01 gt f150
There are so many opinions on this matter all based on personal experiences. I have powerstop drilled and slotted with ZR16 ceramic pads. This is my second set. The first set lasted 65,000 miles. I still had pad left but I had a bearing race issue so I replaced both to be safe. My experience with them has been nothing but positive. Brake dust is minimal, Stopping distance while towing is greatly improved and brake fade left with the O.E. brakes. In aggressive driving such as a road course they are a must have as O.E. rotors will warp. Mountain driving is awesome for warping rotors as well. If you drive aggressive or tow my personal experiences says you should get the drilled and slotted. If you drive like an old fart or like your lost all the time O.E. should be fine. If you shop around, Ebay has a few sellers that will set you up for cheaper than the O.E. replacement. brakemotive (call them before you buy) and R1 concepts. I purchased mine from brakemotive both times. Great customer service and product. Just remember if you buy them they MUST be broken in correctly of they will give minimal improvement.


Thanks for the info
 
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Old 09-08-2013, 08:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Leonardo Agueci
I'm about to replace my front rotors, Power Slot Cryo I, my experience is this: the life of the first pads was approximately 9000 km, the slots acted as a "brush" and before I knew it, was metal metal, I had to grind the rotors. I came back with new pads but with the previous rectification, the depth of the slots became less deep and the rose life.more about 13000 Km. Today must have traveled about 40,000 km in total, almost no slots, and pads can last about 18-20000 km, single use HAWK LTS pads. What has been said here is true, slots and drilled the pads wear very fast. I draw much attention these products ROTOR TECHNOLOGY, I will study them, alternatively, what I have so far almost decided is "Centric High Carbon Brake Rotors" rotors high carbon content, with vane curve which amplifies the cooling of the rotors, metallurgically with GS3500 grain for better and more quickly dissipate heat, cryogenically treated, and there are not slots or drilled. In my opinion, this is the best for us, and my truck is supercharged and tires 35 ", rough handling and I like that my truck quick stops. Also I have braided stainless steel lines and adjusted the actuator rod in the booster....
Thanks for the info
 

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