I am going to replace my rotors soon because the factory ones are warped pretty bad, I had them cut once and it did not last. I do tow and I am looking for some rotors that will not warp or at least last a long time!

 

i bought some off ebay for roughly $250 (front & rear). They were slotted & x-drilled. I also used Hawk FPS? pads front & rear. They do need a little heat to work. you'll notice it the first couple of minutes of driving. i occasionally drive my 2000 Lightning like i stole it. i haven't had problems with fade or warppage from these ebay items. they were made in china too.

get some brembos if you got the cash...perhaps you can even upgrade to lightning discs in the front.

check out ebay here

just make sure they have good feedback (97% or better)
don't go too cheap on yer brakes

 

I put put PowerSlots on my truck and my Dad's. I went w/ the Hawk HPS pads on mine ('00 F150 4x4 ORP 5.4L Scab) and EBC pads on his (02 F350 4x4 V10 Scab). I was warping rotos abd about every 16k miles, I've got about about 40k on my PowerSlots w/ out any problems, and Dad has about 30k on his setup w/ out any problems - and we both tow trailer pretty often.

I like the EBC pads better becasue they put out A LOT less dust.

 

Is it the EBC green? pads everyone is starting to use?

 

Yes.

I should also mention that PowerSlots are Brembos that have been slotted.

 

Do they perform as well as advertised? I am due for some, and I am going to get some drilled rotors, but I am stuck in brake pad pergatory trying to figure out which ones I want.....The EBC, the kevlar, the hawk, etc

 

I changed to the EBC rotors which are slotted and dimpled and the green EBC 7000 series pads. Seem to work great. Most noticable difference is no fade in the mountains. I have aluminum wheels and they produce no noticable dust.

 

I have the powerslots and SBS pads. Noticed a big difference right away. They were pretty cheap also. It seems that all the good pads today are made by the companies that have been making them for dirt bikes. Hawk, EBC and SBS. When researching for new rotors I had read that some of the drilled ones were getting cracks from hole to hole. The slotteds do their job by letting the built up gasses between the rotor and pads escape. I wish the manufacturers would install heavy duty oversized rotors on all heavy vehicles as standard equipment. I don't like the stopping capabilities of my 97. I hope the standard 4 wheel discs are alot better than what I have.

 

The most noticeable difference is the brake fade is gone - and they haven't warped. I wouldn't say it stops better, but I would say it stops better repeatedly, and while hauling/trailering.

 

i have a 02 supercrew and i'm wanting to upgrade the rotors more for the look than anything and the i like the drilled look. factory ones don't look to good behind my new wheels. however, i don't want to put a rotor on that i'm likely to have problems with. thanks for any help

 

Get the Baer Decelereroters, They look and work awesome.

 

I have a 204 Ford F-150 Supercrew. I've had rotors turned twice due to shudder when I would apply the brakes. I decided to change the front pads to see if that made a difference as all the dealer did was turn rotors. WHen you go to the Ford dealer they have two different sets of pads.First is the Ford pad which is always more and then they have a Motorcraft line of pads which is usually about $40.00 dollars cheaper. I decided to get the Motorcraft pads . I noticed the Motorcraft pads have a groove down the center of the pad and the Ford factory pads do not. All I know is that I noticed immediately that the Motorcraft pads brake very smoothly and to date the rotors are not warped. I think that the Ford factory pads have a compound that is hard on the rotors. Start with a rotor that is not warped and put on a set of the Motorcraft pads and I believe your brake problems will disappear.

 

My '05 F-150 supercab had the disease! When I applied the brakes the steering wheel shook, and the brakes were rough as hell. I only had 4000 miles on it!!! I read all the posts and forums, and one thing caught my eye, a guy had written and said he had "measured" very few rotors that were actually "warped". Got me to thinkin' about how my warp problem seemed to go away one time after I had to make a panic stop from high speed a couple of times (So Cal Freeways!) afterward the shake and roughness were less than before. I read another article that called this "Re-bedding" the pads. Could it be the pad material adhereing to the rotors caused the roughness?? So I ordered a set of Akebono Ceramic pads from Tire Rack, and at 6000 miles on the odo, I went out and made several panic stops from high speed to "clean" up the rotors (which by now were rough and steering shake was back) I first put an indicator on the front wheels and spun them to see if they were bent. They weren't! So I removed them and put the indicator on the rotor surface, and spun them..........they were straight also. I cleaned the rotor surfaces with brake cleaner, and installed the ceramic pads (My rotors are very, very, slightly striated, barely grooved) and put everything back together. Guess what, after installing the new pads, my brakes were almost perfectly smooth, and only a minimum of vibration in the steering wheel..................an hour earlier it was shaking my hands. I have been driving on them for about 300 miles now, and they continued to get smoother as the miles added up, and seem very normal now. I can feel a very slight roughness which I am going to attribute to the Ford rear brakes. I have ordered a set of the same ceramic rear pads, which I will install next week. As far as I'm concerned....problem solved. By the way, the surface of the stock Ford pads I removed seemed sort of galled.

I forgot to mention how clean my wheels have stayed!! No more black dust!

 

I don't recommend getting x-drilled rotors due to them cracking from the drilled hole out to the edge. this happened on my stang within 3K miles. I now have the slotted and dimpled rotors and they work great. they stop the stang from 116mph to 0 in a very short time. the reason rotors were drilled was to allow the gasses to escape from the pads. with new technology there is no gasses and the need for drilling has gone. do some online research and it will explain this.

 

But the dimpled version still doesn't dissipate heat as well. And one of the main reasons I ever investigated crossdrilled, is because Mercedes (the undisputed king of brakes) and Porsche have been using crossdrilled for years. I don't think anyone would disagree with me when I say they make some hellatious cars, and need mondo brakes to stop them. If crossdrilled is the way they go, then there was some serious research done into this. There may be some studies out there about what they do and don't do, but I bet Benz spent more on more controlled enviorments and extreme condition. I had them on my 350HP naturally aspirated stang, and never once had an issue