Green coolant life and Plugs on '01
#1
09-15-2002, 06:45 PM
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Green coolant life and Plugs on '01
Hey all- I'm sittin' on about 37,000 miles now, and am curious when all y'all change your coolant. The book says 45K if it's green. Well, green it is. Has anybody changed it earlier, or gone a lot longer? I've got the middle sized radiator, about 1 and a half inches thick. Also, when is a good time to change plugs- the truck has been ridden hard and put to bed wet, but well maintained (new tranny fluid, always Mobil 1 5W30 with good filters and good gas) Thanks
Noel
Noel
#3
09-15-2002, 06:53 PM
When it comes to coolant, I'm in the change it every two years group, unless you get it tested. The big problem with coolant is it turns acidic as it breaks down. The change in pH causes all kinds of problems. The first problem to show up is the heater core starts leaking.
Our engines have a mix of aluminum, iron, and steel. When the pH lowers, electrolysis starts. The first to eat through is aluminum with the most susceptible being the heater core.
Our engines have a mix of aluminum, iron, and steel. When the pH lowers, electrolysis starts. The first to eat through is aluminum with the most susceptible being the heater core.
#5
09-15-2002, 07:05 PM
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I'm with, Dennis on this. Particularly the point about coolant behaving acidic. Ford has as TSB for your truck related to repeated heater core failure that is directly related to the coolant eating through it.
Flush and fill every 2 years.
You can check for "Electrolysis" with a digital volt meter.
Flush and fill every 2 years.
You can check for "Electrolysis" with a digital volt meter.
ISSUE
Some vehicles may exhibit (repeat) heater core leaks. This may be caused by a chemical reaction called electrolysis. Electrolysis involves an ion exchange between the heater core and engine coolant which can result in a breakdown of the heater core material. This is similar to the operation of a battery.
ACTION
Check for electrolysis on any vehicle with a heater core failure. If electrolysis is verified, flush the coolant and follow additional steps as required. Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
Electrolysis Inspection
If there is a condition of a heater core leaking or repeal heater core leak, check for electrolysis using the following procedure:
1. To check for electrolysis use a DVOM set on DC volts. Place the positive probe of the meter in the engine coolant and the negative probe on the negative battery post.
2. Adjust engine throttle to 2000 RPM to properly get coolant flow and true electrolysis voltages.
3. If more than .4V is recorded, flush the coolant and recheck (follow guidelines in TSB 98-23-16 for Cougar). See Coolant Fill Procedure below to remove trapped air on 4.6/5.4/6.8L modular engines.
NOTE EXPORT MARKETS, BE SURE THE WATER IS DESALINATED.
4. If there is still excessive voltage present in the coolant, check the engine to body/battery grounds. Also, verify proper grounding of any aftermarket electrical/electronic equipment which has been installed into the vehicle. Improperly grounded electrical devices can cause electrolysis to occur.
5. If the condition is still present after the grounds have been checked, it may be necessary to add extra grounds to the heater core and engine. A hose clamp can be used to secure a 16 AWG stranded copper wire to the heater core inlet tube. The other end should be secured to an EXISTING FASTENER on the body sheet metal. Extra grounds to the engine should be attached between EXISTING FASTENERS on the engine and body sheet metal. Verify continuity of any added grounds to the negative battery terminal.
6. If the condition is still present, add a restrictor (part F1UZ-18D406-A) on the inlet hose with the arrow facing the direction of coolant flow (toward heater core). Cut the line and install with 2 hose clamps. It is important that the restrictor be installed in the right direction of flow and as close to the engine block as possible (not near the heater core itself).
Some vehicles may exhibit (repeat) heater core leaks. This may be caused by a chemical reaction called electrolysis. Electrolysis involves an ion exchange between the heater core and engine coolant which can result in a breakdown of the heater core material. This is similar to the operation of a battery.
ACTION
Check for electrolysis on any vehicle with a heater core failure. If electrolysis is verified, flush the coolant and follow additional steps as required. Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
Electrolysis Inspection
If there is a condition of a heater core leaking or repeal heater core leak, check for electrolysis using the following procedure:
1. To check for electrolysis use a DVOM set on DC volts. Place the positive probe of the meter in the engine coolant and the negative probe on the negative battery post.
2. Adjust engine throttle to 2000 RPM to properly get coolant flow and true electrolysis voltages.
3. If more than .4V is recorded, flush the coolant and recheck (follow guidelines in TSB 98-23-16 for Cougar). See Coolant Fill Procedure below to remove trapped air on 4.6/5.4/6.8L modular engines.
NOTE EXPORT MARKETS, BE SURE THE WATER IS DESALINATED.
4. If there is still excessive voltage present in the coolant, check the engine to body/battery grounds. Also, verify proper grounding of any aftermarket electrical/electronic equipment which has been installed into the vehicle. Improperly grounded electrical devices can cause electrolysis to occur.
5. If the condition is still present after the grounds have been checked, it may be necessary to add extra grounds to the heater core and engine. A hose clamp can be used to secure a 16 AWG stranded copper wire to the heater core inlet tube. The other end should be secured to an EXISTING FASTENER on the body sheet metal. Extra grounds to the engine should be attached between EXISTING FASTENERS on the engine and body sheet metal. Verify continuity of any added grounds to the negative battery terminal.
6. If the condition is still present, add a restrictor (part F1UZ-18D406-A) on the inlet hose with the arrow facing the direction of coolant flow (toward heater core). Cut the line and install with 2 hose clamps. It is important that the restrictor be installed in the right direction of flow and as close to the engine block as possible (not near the heater core itself).
#6
09-17-2002, 02:07 AM
Originally posted by palerider
Anything weird as far as changing it, like an odd bleeding process or something? Or just straightforward drain and hose flush?
Noel
Anything weird as far as changing it, like an odd bleeding process or something? Or just straightforward drain and hose flush?
Noel
I let the shop do it. They have a machine that flushes and changes the fluid. Also don't have to worry about disposal of the fluid or the potential of poisoning animals and children. It's illegal to just let it run into the ground, at least it is in many places. If you have smog, you definitely don't want to let the stuff evaporate because it adds to the smog.