Finding timing
If you 'broke' a timing chain - you can't simply just time one side. You are going to have to do a lot of stuff like removing valve covers and front cover -including determining if there was any valve damage on the bank with the broken chain.
So, having cleared all those hurdles, if you put the Crank Pulley keyway at 11:00 o'clock - (crank gear timing DOT at 6:00 o'clock) you will be close enough to TDC on number 1. Whether it is compression or exhaust stroke is determined by position of Cam LOBES which you will have to observe before putting timing chains back on.
So, having cleared all those hurdles, if you put the Crank Pulley keyway at 11:00 o'clock - (crank gear timing DOT at 6:00 o'clock) you will be close enough to TDC on number 1. Whether it is compression or exhaust stroke is determined by position of Cam LOBES which you will have to observe before putting timing chains back on.
It is time to remove cam caps and cam. The Phaser is keyed to cam, so from phaser timing mark you can determine its orientation. But you gotta make sure there aren't bent valves (which I can't imagine there not being).
Yes I have removed and inspected all components replaced as needed but I'm still not sure how to know what stroke I'm on with no previous reference before removing chain and cams now that I'm going back together I'm concerned I have a 50% chance of not setting it on compression stroke. I also have all special tools needed for job but thinking that the sensors won't be in sequence if I get it wrong from factory
Last edited by Jon White; Sep 9, 2019 at 11:54 AM.
so no answer to my question ..guess I will have to roll the dice and if on wrong stroke I will switch it
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I don't see where it would make a difference if you are replacing BOTH timing chains, which you should, along with the guides and tensioners, oil pump, and phasers. The CAMS determine whether it's TDC compression or exhaust.
@glc Is correct. Phaser's are 'keyed' to cams and will only go on one way. As long as you have cams on correct head ------ >then:
If you place crank sprocket with timing dot at 6:00 o'clock, cylinder #1 is at, or at least near, top of travel. (That's correct for both Exhaust and Compression Stroke).
Then if Phaser gears are aligned with colored chain links straddling the phaser timing marks ("R" and "L") on _OPPOSITE SIDES_ (doesn't matter which), it is in time. I AM NOT RECOMMENDING THIS, BUT Literally - If you align passenger side colored links straddling the "L" and drivers side straddling the "R" - you will have set it up on Exhaust stroke.Sometimes referred to as 180 degrees out of phase. Conversely, in you time the "L" on drivers side and "R" on passenger side you will have timed the thing on compression stroke. IN EITHER CASE when you crank her up - the PCM detects the missing tooth on the crankshaft tone ring to know WHEN Cyl #1 is at top of stroke, and detects the 5th phaser finger on Bank 1 (passenger's side) Phaser to know proper valve position for combustion and establish the 'beginning' of the firing order. She'll crank up and run just fine.
AFTER THOUGHT. None of this is to suggest the Cams can be rotated with chains OFF. In order to re-position cams with chains OFF, one must either remove rollers/followers - or lift cam caps and place cams back down in proper orientation. (I have heard the 5.4 is an interference engine - meaning pistons will hit valves - and I have heard NOT. I do not know, but wouldn't chance it.)
If you place crank sprocket with timing dot at 6:00 o'clock, cylinder #1 is at, or at least near, top of travel. (That's correct for both Exhaust and Compression Stroke).
Then if Phaser gears are aligned with colored chain links straddling the phaser timing marks ("R" and "L") on _OPPOSITE SIDES_ (doesn't matter which), it is in time. I AM NOT RECOMMENDING THIS, BUT Literally - If you align passenger side colored links straddling the "L" and drivers side straddling the "R" - you will have set it up on Exhaust stroke.Sometimes referred to as 180 degrees out of phase. Conversely, in you time the "L" on drivers side and "R" on passenger side you will have timed the thing on compression stroke. IN EITHER CASE when you crank her up - the PCM detects the missing tooth on the crankshaft tone ring to know WHEN Cyl #1 is at top of stroke, and detects the 5th phaser finger on Bank 1 (passenger's side) Phaser to know proper valve position for combustion and establish the 'beginning' of the firing order. She'll crank up and run just fine.
AFTER THOUGHT. None of this is to suggest the Cams can be rotated with chains OFF. In order to re-position cams with chains OFF, one must either remove rollers/followers - or lift cam caps and place cams back down in proper orientation. (I have heard the 5.4 is an interference engine - meaning pistons will hit valves - and I have heard NOT. I do not know, but wouldn't chance it.)
Last edited by F150Torqued; Sep 10, 2019 at 09:52 AM. Reason: AFTER THOUGHT
@glc Is correct. Phaser's are 'keyed' to cams and will only go on one way. As long as you have cams on correct head ------ >then:
If you place crank sprocket with timing dot at 6:00 o'clock, cylinder #1 is at, or at least near, top of travel. (That's correct for both Exhaust and Compression Stroke).
Then if Phaser gears are aligned with colored chain links straddling the phaser timing marks ("R" and "L") on _OPPOSITE SIDES_ (doesn't matter which), it is in time. I AM NOT RECOMMENDING THIS, BUT Literally - If you align passenger side colored links straddling the "L" and drivers side straddling the "R" - you will have set it up on Exhaust stroke.Sometimes referred to as 180 degrees out of phase. Conversely, in you time the "L" on drivers side and "R" on passenger side you will have timed the thing on compression stroke. IN EITHER CASE when you crank her up - the PCM detects the missing tooth on the crankshaft tone ring to know WHEN Cyl #1 is at top of stroke, and detects the 5th phaser finger on Bank 1 (passenger's side) Phaser to know proper valve position for combustion and establish the 'beginning' of the firing order. She'll crank up and run just fine.
AFTER THOUGHT. None of this is to suggest the Cams can be rotated with chains OFF. In order to re-position cams with chains OFF, one must either remove rollers/followers - or lift cam caps and place cams back down in proper orientation. (I have heard the 5.4 is an interference engine - meaning pistons will hit valves - and I have heard NOT. I do not know, but wouldn't chance it.)
If you place crank sprocket with timing dot at 6:00 o'clock, cylinder #1 is at, or at least near, top of travel. (That's correct for both Exhaust and Compression Stroke).
Then if Phaser gears are aligned with colored chain links straddling the phaser timing marks ("R" and "L") on _OPPOSITE SIDES_ (doesn't matter which), it is in time. I AM NOT RECOMMENDING THIS, BUT Literally - If you align passenger side colored links straddling the "L" and drivers side straddling the "R" - you will have set it up on Exhaust stroke.Sometimes referred to as 180 degrees out of phase. Conversely, in you time the "L" on drivers side and "R" on passenger side you will have timed the thing on compression stroke. IN EITHER CASE when you crank her up - the PCM detects the missing tooth on the crankshaft tone ring to know WHEN Cyl #1 is at top of stroke, and detects the 5th phaser finger on Bank 1 (passenger's side) Phaser to know proper valve position for combustion and establish the 'beginning' of the firing order. She'll crank up and run just fine.
AFTER THOUGHT. None of this is to suggest the Cams can be rotated with chains OFF. In order to re-position cams with chains OFF, one must either remove rollers/followers - or lift cam caps and place cams back down in proper orientation. (I have heard the 5.4 is an interference engine - meaning pistons will hit valves - and I have heard NOT. I do not know, but wouldn't chance it.)
Sounds like you are good to go. If you are not past that point, take the VCT valve bodies off and clean all the little passageways out and check/clean the little fine screen inside them. Oil flow is SO critical in these engines.
And of course check / replace any roller/follows that have rough or lose rollers. I don't know HOW to check/test lash adjusters - so just replaced all of mine along with all roller/followers. Glad I did. It's quiet as a mouse.
And of course check / replace any roller/follows that have rough or lose rollers. I don't know HOW to check/test lash adjusters - so just replaced all of mine along with all roller/followers. Glad I did. It's quiet as a mouse.





