2004 F150 5.4L 3V Project
 

Hi all,

I just got a project truck needing some engine work and I'm looking for advice from those more experienced than myself (which I expect is pretty much everyone here). I have the 5.4L 3V engine and this is my first time dealing with this particular engine. I haven't yet gone into the engine itself but I have done some reading since I want to be prepared before I start the actual work.

My symptoms are:
- small rattle on startup which goes away after 2-3 seconds
- rough/inconsistent idle
- intermittent knocking sound once the engine is hot

Codes:
P0022 ("A" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Retarded (Bank 2))
P0174 (System Too Lean (Bank 2))
P0300 (Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected)
P0316 (Engine Misfire Detected on Startup (First 1000 Revolutions))
P0345 (Camshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2))

So far my thinking is the timing system needs to be replaced. From what I read the VCT system should be inactive under 800rpm, so it seems like one of the VCT solenoids is malfunctioning or stuck open, throwing the timing off while idling. The phasers themselves could also be malfunctioning.

I'm also thinking that the slight rattle on startup is the timing chain itself which to me suggests that the tensioners and/or guides are malfunctioning, so those should be replaced also.

I could replace the cam phasers, vct solenoids, timing chain, guides, tensioners, oil pump (upgrading to a melling m360), roller followers, and lifters, doing all the work myself. But first I want to make a positive identification of the failure(s) so I can be sure about what I'm doing. I want to fix it right and fix it once.

What do you all think? What other diagnostic steps should I perform at this stage?

That's what I'd do. I'd also replace all the spark plugs and coils as long as you are doing this much work on the engine. Use Motorcraft plugs and coils, be aware of the 2 piece plug breakage issue.

Startup rattle is very frequently caused by use of Fram oil filters, which do not have an adequate anti-drainback valve.

Sure wouldn't hurt to replace both cam position sensors and the crank position sensor.

The previous filter was a fram. The first thing I did was an oil change, it now has a motorcraft filter on it. I also noticed that only 3 quarts or so of the old oil came out, instead of the expected 7 qts.

It must have been extremely low on oil if only 3 qts came out.

If it was that low, that indicates poor maintenance, it's probably all sludged up and burning oil. I'd consider a full rebuild. How many miles are allegedly on it?

The odometer reads 236k miles. I bought the truck for 1100, and apparently the engine hasn't had any serious issues until now. When the symptoms first started appearing the previous owner parked it immediately and didn't want to deal with it

With that little in it, I'd consider putting a good used or reman engine in it. If you pull the cam covers and see sludge, replace the engine or do a complete rebuild.

I'll be pulling the covers on friday. In the meantime what price range should I be looking for on a reman? What about for a decent used engine? I read on another thread somewhere of someone buying a truck that rolled just for the engine and having it swapped in at a shop. I'd like to consider all options and choose the most cost effective path. I think I can do all the work myself on rebuilding this current engine but I don't think I have the means to swap in a reman or used engine so I would need to do that at a shop.

You need to pull the engine to rebuild it properly. It needs to be thoroughly cleaned and parts machined to get everything in spec. You've got a project on your hands.

Ah I misunderstood the *complete* part of complete rebuild.

Let me correct myself, I can do a full timing job + oil pump on my own but anything that requires pulling the engine is outside of my capabilities without the proper tools and facilities. If I had to do a total *complete* rebuild I think it would be more cost effective at that point to find a decent used or reman engine and have it swapped at a shop, or by someone with the tools to do such a job.

In any event I'm going to be pulling the valve covers today to get a visual inspection on the valve train. I'll check for excessive sludge as well as the condition of the cams, roller followers, phasers, and timing chain.

It wouldn't hurt to use a borescope or camera to look inside the cylinders.