my truck was showing a cam sensor and timing code so i replaced the cam sensors and still same code so i bought all the parts and replaced the entire timing chain system with all new parts.truck started right up but the cam sensor code is still there.so i cleared the computer of everything by taking battery ground off and connecting a jumper wire to ground cable and + battery and let set for 10 min or so and put it back together and followed the procedure to reprogram it and it was running perfect i mean perfect so i took it for a drive to reset transmission and it shifted fine.But after about 2 miles the check engine light came on and i felt the power just leave it and i thought i wasn't going to make it back home but i did and this is where I'm at.someone please tell me what the problem is please.im lost from this point.im thinking maybe the ecm may be bad and i checked the olms at the cam sensor and it shows fine

 

What are the specific codes that are currently being shown?

 

the code shows cam sensor A

 

Codes by number, please.......

 

if i remember correctly it was code 340 or 345

 

Little bit of a lame way to ask for specific help ----


But, one aspect of those two codes (whichever one doesn't matter), is that they are a very mis-diagnosed and mis-understood codes. Their OBDII descriptions are written in a very poor non specific way frequently sending (even seasoned) mechanics off chasing a rabbit trail. ie: Cam Position Sensor "A" (or "B"), circuit malfunction. Blah-Blah-Blah. Sounds like electrical wiring problem. SO ///BEWARE///.


Cam phaser's have 5 fingers on them that the CPS senses the passing presence of to determine ABSOLUTE position of cam lobes. This signal is not "interrupt driven" in the ECU computer. Instead, the ECU 'polls' the CPS sensor signal - during a "window of time" when the signal SHOULD be present - to see if one of the fingers is in proximity of the phaser finger as expected.


First, they are 'sticky' once set. The condition may go away right away, but the DTC will remain for multiple (I think two completed) drive cycles for this code before it is cleared.


Second, A jumped tooth on a timing chain creates the precious conditions that reports this code - even though it has nothing to do with circuit wiring or battery condition.


Third. Getting timing OFF on a timing job will produce the conditions that reports this code. (this one just about requires an oscilloscope to accurately diagnose without tear down again.)


Fourth: If the locking pin in a phaser fails to lock the phaser at base (0 degrees retard) at shutdown, this code is almost guaranteed to be set upon next startup before oil pressure builds up.

 

sorry about the lame way but i don't have the code reader a friend does and i can't be exact but I'm pretty dam sure that was the code.im 99.9% sure the timing chain is correct and hasn't jumped a tooth because i put everything new in it and made dam sure it was correct on the marks.like i said i drained the codes from computer and was in the process of it resetting all of the perimeters and the motor was running like a little kitten purring.it was when i drove it for theECM to set for the trans and i had drove it about 2 miles and the check engine code came on and thats when it started to run stupid.I just don't see how the phasers are causing the problem or it is out of time.Like i said when i reset the ECM it ran fine not a shake or a rattle anywhere until i drove it thats why i said i checked the cps olms to eliminate the wiring and it was fine.The only thing i can figure is the ECM is messing up but I'm not sure

 

I'm not specifically saying YOU did something wrong in timing.

Just be cautious of jumping to quick diagnosis of those specific codes. Primarily because of their LAME OBDII trouble descriptions. Understand exactly what they are telling you.

The ECU does not see the "Finger" on the phaser (which is mechanically linked to the Camshaft / thus lobes) during the 'time window' when the ECU expects it to appear by the CPS sensor. Don't "ASSUME" that that means wiring or a bad ECU.

The other things that I mentioned in the previous post are among things that will ALSO give the same codes. And this code is SET during the early stages of starting. (This is why people often suggest 'Battery' or 'Starter' causing noise on the CPS signal wire. All the code means is the ECU did not detect the phaser finger when it EXPECTED TO.

If the phaser does not return to base - AND - the locking pin inside the Phaser does NOT capture the phaser and lock into position at zero retard, the camshaft / valve spring drag forces on the Camshaft will cause the cam to retard to maximum during cranking and you will get this code - before oil pressure has a chance to build up and push the phaser back to advance (no retard) position.

That is why I note it is 'sticky'. If the above scenario occurs you will get trouble light. But next starting cycle, the problem may not even be there, but the light remains (at least for a couple more drive cycles before the ECU will clear the code).

Of course we hope yours 'heals'.

What brand of Phasers did you install?

 

the timing chains was from coyles and the phasers were from a company called CSN and supposed to made by them here in the states.I read several reviews on them and everybody said good things about them or i wouldn't have bought them but i couldn't justify 300 + for each phaser,and i knew i didn't want Dormans or the ones made in china.But who knows for sure all the reviews could have been bogus as far as i know.
All i know is when i reset the computer it was running fine and as i was driving it on interstate after about 2 miles the light came on and it started running like crap.I understand what you are saying about the pin in the phaser but i wouldn't think it would do it while i was driving it, only when it came back to an idolI. I may be wrong but thats what i understand how it works.I appreciate the help your trying to give me.But my common sense is telling me its not the phasers or the timing.

 

Did you clean/check the screens on the VCT's when you were in there? Or replace them?

 

i replaced the VCT,s also and put in a new oil pump from ford high volume
new plugs new coil pacs new battery The only things i haven't done is clean the throttle body I'm going to that also when it warms back up and i also replaced the cam sensors

 

Could you see if the old parts were damaged?

 

the only thing i could see was wrong was a tensor had lost its prime and was letting the chain make noise till the oil pressure got up.everything else looked fine.So i don't know if the phasers were bad or not but i replaced them thinking they were.Like i said when i reset the ECM it run and drove fine for about 2 miles and the engine light came on and it started to run like crap

 

That more of an indication of worn / stretched chains. But having replaced all the timing components - codes or some technical operational data from the ECU would be most helpful in providing direction. Without it- is akin to a game of pin the tail on the donkey.


With these modern vehicles, a mechanic without a code reader is like a cardiologist without a stethoscope.