2011 F150 5.0 With 200k Miles
 

Hi everyone, never written on a forum before so sorry if this is not the right section.. Just looking for opinions on a truck I'm looking to buy.
It's a 2011 F150 Ext Cab 4x4 with long bed auto with the 5.0 motor.
The truck is a one owner, seems to have been well and regularly maintained at local Ford dealer here and it has 204,000 miles on it. It's very reasonably priced in my opinion at $4500 runs and drives spot on, has no leaks knocks or bad stuff going on... Just wanted some opinions on whether this would be a decent buy, or how long it would probably last considering mileage? No check engine lights, very minimal rust etc. Needs a good clean and a set of tires but no biggy there. I have an 05 Suburban 5.3 that's still going on like new with 260k miles so this would technically be an upgrade from that... Just.. But it will be a daily driver and $4500 for me is a pretty significant chunk of change since I sold my house, quit my job last year and am living off grid in the woods of Northern US/Canadian border.
Any opinions would be greatly received thanks

You just never know with something like that, could crater tomorrow. But sounds as if you've checked it out well, and the price is good. It could go 400,000 with no problems. I would do it if it were me.

I'd take it to a good shop or a Ford dealer and get it inspected thoroughly. You may have to throw some significant cash at it soon, not necessarily the engine.

I would suspect this may be the case - I ran the private party book value for that truck in "fair" condition in XL (lowest) trim level and came up with $6000.

If you can afford to repair what might need to be repaired and buy with your eyes wide open, go for it. If you have no resources to repair it, don't do it.

Back in the day I bought and sold a lot of cars. It was almost a disease, fun disease. I bought many Mustangs, Chevelles and the like with V8 engines and 4 speed transmissions. I bought them knowing that I may need to rebuild the engines which I could do myself. It was fun. There was that one 1969 SS396 4 speed Chevelle that I kinda got burned on.

I would look closely at the front end. [balljoints, tierods] If its never been repaired at 200k miles its way past its service life, to the point its probably very dangerous.


I think for 4500 it would be worth the gamble. If something catastrophic happened, the rest of the truck could be parted out and make some decent money back

Thanks for the replies
 

Appreciate the replies. It seems like a deal to me. I looked over it pretty carefully and it seems pretty straight and tight still, balljoints, tie rods, and steering joints look solid and has had some front end work at some point fairly recently.
It has no seeping or leaking on engine, trans or diffs which seems a pretty good sign to me. No rattles from the motor either, but I'm not familiar with this newer 5.0 lump at all, never even heard of it until I saw this truck. I expected it to be a 4.6 or 5.4 honestly.

Am I right in saying this is a fairly new motor and not a derivative of the older 5.0's they used in the 80's vehicles? I have an 87 F150 I picked up for next to nothing that I run at my camp for hauling firewood and even though the body is shot, the motor is really good and coupled with a 4 speed granny box it does me real well. I also have a 1999 F250 with a 5.4 that was a Canadian government plow truck. It has 288k kilometers and still bulletproof apart from the customary bad exhaust manifolds...

I may well take on the 2011 and see how it goes.
Thanks again,

The current 5.0 "Coyote" is based off the 4.6/5.4 "Triton". It is the latest "Modular" engine built with the same tooling in the Essex plant. It has nothing in common with the pushrod 5.0 "Windsor".

It's a 4 valve DOHC engine with twin-independent variable cam timing. It was introduced in 2011 in the Mustang and F-150.

The transmission is a 6 speed 6R80.

I loved the 4.6 DOHC 4V engine in my 95 Mark VIII Lincoln.

So being such a new engine do we know if they're any good yet? Are there any pros and cons that have come up from 6 years of use do you know? Or anything to watch out for?
I took some of your advice and went over the truck really well today and found that almost all of the front end components have been replaced somewhat recently. All 4 shocks are aftermarket, so have also been replaced and there is no oil or fluid leaking from anything at all.

The only 2 issues I've found with the truck that I'd appreciate your thoughts on are: the rear diff has a fairly noticeable whine when the truck is going up a hill or accelerating, but only when it's pulling, not when you're just freewheeling with foot off gas.. And there's quite a bit of engine oil leaking from the oil filler cap and spilling down the valve cover and onto the front wishbone. It's obviously been doing this a long time, as it's all gunked up and dirty around that part of the valve cover.
I'm wondering if that could be caused by blow by maybe? Or worn rings? But surely it would smoke? Or maybe a blocked PCV?
Other than that, the thing is tight, smooth, responsive and sounds great!

I think you are correct about blowby probably causing the oil to blow out the fill cap. The engine probably has a fixed oirifice instead of a pcv. I think the new 5.0 V8s are solid engines but it is a high miles unit. Most modern day engines have low tension rings. Many of the Dodge Hemi owners put catch cans on the engine vent line to prevent oil from getting into the intake when they drive them hard. I haven't bothered to do that on my 05 Magnum Hemi and it uses less than a quart of oil in 5k miles when I change it. 108k miles on the car.

Does that mean the engine is on its way out then you think? Or will it run ok like that for a good while yet? I've not encountered blow by on a vehicle before, I just know about it from other people's experiences.

The Rock Auto catalog does show a PCV valve for a 2011 5.0.

The only engine I've seen with a fixed orifice is the 5.4 3 valve.

If it's blowby, the engine probably has seen better days, but it might just be sludged up. If that's the case, perhaps an AutoRX treatment may help.

If it is sludged up, the most likely cause is not changing the oil. Modern oils will keep an engine clean if it is changed on shedule. Then there are those engines like a V6 that Toyota sold for a few years that had too small cooling water passages in the heads so they would be hotter for emissions reasons but they were so hot that the oil turned into sludge and the engines blew. Toyota denied warranty claims for a good while before they finally owned up to their mistake.

Thanks. I've actually got cash in hand finally, so I'm going down there today and give it a final going over. I'm going to check to see if there's much air being pushed out of the oil fill when running, and I'm going to check out the breather lines and pcv and see if it's just that that's gummed up. The guy selling the truck says he's pretty sure it's had regular oil changes and there is a fairly recent sticker on the windshield, so hopefully it's just a clogged PCV and an easy fix.
What do you all think of using Seafoam in the crank case right before an oil change as a de gunker? I've done this before in older cars but never on one this new... Is there anything on the market that works well for de gunking?

I'm really in a fight between heart and head at the moment.. The heart says I really like it and should go for it, but the head is saying it's probably too big a gamble...

One other thing.. What would you guys use for oil in something with this high mileage? Full synthetic you think?
I may throw some Lucas oil stabiliser in there for extra protection too.

I would be afraid to put any kind of cleaner in the oil. If it is sludged up, it could break up big chunks of sludge and plug oil passages. I've seen this happen on an old 59 Chevy I bought for $100 back in 71. The oil drain holes in the heads were plugged and the oil level in the valve covers was above the valve guides causing oil to drain into the cylinders through the valve guides. It smoked like a coal burning train. I bought it like that to have something to tinker on and removed the valve covers and intake manifold, cleaned out the sludge and it didn't smoke afterwards. Every owners manual I've ever read does not recommend oil additives and I agree.

I would go for 5w30, something with a little higher viscosity or maybe even a 10w40.

This is the only safe desludging treatment, follow the directions:

https://www.auto-rx.com/

I would use the recommended grade of oil, not a full synthetic but Motorcraft synthetic blend without additives.

Ok thanks that's good to know. I've used seafoam in a crank case once on my Suburban and it helped with a stuck lifter noise, but I'll not bother with this and just go get some fresh oil.
I bought the truck this morning. I took the oil filler cap off and there was absolutely no air coming from the engine at all, no blow by basically, so it looks like it justs needs an oil cap which I just got at Napa for $5... Drove the thing aroundfor an hour and it's totally fine.
so again, appreciate the replies and advice and I'll keep this thread open and update on how many more miles I get out of it before it blows up!
I ended up getting it for $4200 out the door, taxes, title and fees included. So I feel like I scored a pretty fair deal there even if something big does happen.
Thanks

I think you did great! Good luck with it. Just additional caution, Seafoam can cause the catalytic converters to stop up.

Looks like you got a good deal. Hope you get another 200k out of it!

10w40 is NOT the recommended grade of oil! Also, don't use Lucas in it.

Well Parttime, you did the exact opposite of what you should have done. Here's the issue. A worn engine like the one you bought may be just fine but the internal heat goes up with mileage. The internal heat is something you won't see on the temp gauge as the radiator takes care of it. But the internal parts are running hotter. Using a broad viscosity oil makes things even worse not to mention makes the engine run hotter internally. If you remember anything from your high school physic or chemistry class, any thin fluid will absorb and release heat faster than a thick fluid. The oil is not just a lube in the engine but also a coolant. Using the 40 oil will raise the oil temps as well as internal temps. The broad viscosity range in the heat makes for more sludge. The problem is the oil naturally can't make the spread from 10w to a 40 at temp. The blenders will use polymers to make the spread. These polymers are notorious for condensing out of formulation and making sludge. To add to that, you put Lucas in the oil. Care to guess what Lucas is? If you guessed polymers, you would be correct. That's what Lucas makes- polymers. You just added a bottle full of sludge to the already oil that's going to sludge over time. So here's what I would suggest. Run this oil no more than 2000 miles. Consider it a flush, kinda. Change it to a 10w-30 Pennzoil yellow bottle. NO additives. Use a quality filter. The Pennzoil yellow bottle has the absolute lowest NOACK which means it can tolerate more heat than any synthetic on the market and not cook off. It will go down to -25C during the winter so cold startup shouldn't be an issue unless you live in Alaska. I'd change the oil again with the same oil at 3000 miles. Most likely, with the cleaning agents in the Pennzoil yellow bottle, the engine will be reasonably clean after that. I'd suggest to continue using it until you get rid of the truck. Remember, no oil additives. Use ONLY Techron for the injection system. No other gas additives are approved by Ford and some are nothing but kerosene in the bottle. If the bottle reads "petroleum distillates" know that means kerosene. Seafoam is nothing more than a 20 viscosity light oil with some kerosene and some rubbing alcohol in it. Alcohol, better known as IPA, has ZERO business in the oil unless you just like replacing seals. Alcohols strip lubrication. The gas already has more than enough alcohol in it in the form of methanol.
Hope the truck turns out to be a winner for you. From the looks of it you can't tell it has that many miles on it. Looks like ya done good!

I was always under the impression that a thicker oil in the summer in a high mileage engine was better due to the hot temperatures of the day time making the oil run thinner in the engine and not coating components properly? , then put a thinner oil in right before winter for the opposite effect. Or is that not right?
The Lucas was an afterthought really. I've been using it in my high mileage Suburban for years and it makes a noticeable difference with making the engine more quiet, taking away the tappet rattles and valve noise, so I threw it in there. But I can see your point about sludging, I've not heard that before.
I will say though, it's running so much smoother now with the oil change, pretty much no engine noises at all now.
I change oil every 3000 anyway so it won't be in there long.
I'm not going to use any fuel additives either, I'll just fill up with decent petrol with the additives already inside.
Is there a good oil additive that doesn't cause sludging thatis beneficial?

The good oils made today already have additives. Putting additional additives in can over do a good thing. As stated before, the only additive that you should consider is Techron in the gas to help the fuel system and valves.

Adding Chevron Techron occasionally is a good thing. It helps keep the injectors and intake ports clean up to behind the intake valve.

I'd follow Labnerd's oil recommendation. He's in the business.

Ford recommends 5w20 that's what I've used in all my vehicles. The Motorcraft synthetic blend is a good bang for the buck. I usually go about 5k on my truck and about 6k-7k on the wife's Escape. The Escape tale 6 quarts, and wants oil changes every 7500. The truck takes 8 quarts and when I usually change it at 5k it says I have around 50% life left (not that I really trust the computer)


Your Suburban has a 5.3 I assume? The build tolerances on the 20 year old "LS" series engine is very sloppy compared to the tighter tolerances of most modern engines. That's why your Suburban seems to like the thicker oil, it helps fill the gaps in the tolerances.

I always look at the recommended viscosity and you can get an idea of build quality. Lexus/Toyota uses 0w20 on a lot of their modern engines, and they are one of the best engines in the business.

As stated earlier the Ford 5.0L "Coyote" is a very sophisticated engine. DOHC, independent variable camshaft timing etc. The passages in the Camshaft Phasers are very tiny. Neglected maintenance or wrong maintenance can cause issues because the oil passages get blocked up. Hell even the timing chain tensioner has oil pressure on it for tension strength.



Good luck! We're only trying to help you out ;)

Part time, many years ago our grandfathers used a thicker oil mostly when towing. The heat that the engine would build was the novices reason for doing it. Truth is, the engines with their slop pots called carburetors were dumping gas into the engine so bad that a lot of the gas ended up in the oil. So the thinning effect was from the gas, not due to the heat. Then like all things, one guy says he used heavier oil for heat while towing and the next thing you have people using heavier oil just due to it being summer. Some of the old cars did have separate oil specs for summer and winter. Ford had a dual spec. You were supposed to use 30wt oil in the summer and 20wt in the winter. The issue was cold startup. The 6 volt batteries of the day were at task just to start the engine in the summer. Let it get cold and the starter wouldn't hardly turn the engine at all. Obviously the 5.0 has fuel injection and gas build up in the oil isn't an issue.
I imagine that 5.0 is quiet and you would be too if you had oil out of the bottle that one viscosity too thick and then had a bottle of oil thickener dumped in on top of it. That's what Lucas polymers do, they thicken the oil as the oil warms up. The hotter the oil, the thicker it becomes. I wouldn't doubt that the current oil in your engine at full temp wouldn't register as 60wt on a viscometer.

Ok good info thanks. I honestly never knew that, I always thought thicker oil in summer and thinner in winter. And thicker oil in high mileage engines, that's what I've always done.. So good to know and change my practices before I cause harm. Will it cause any trouble leaving the oil in for the next 2500 miles, or should I go dump it now and put it the recommended stuff?
Another issue that's popped up that you guys may be able to help with.. In very low speed, around 2-10 mph when you're driving forward, the rear end (diff I'm guessing) has a really pronounced whine or dull grind noise. It also happens when going up inclines at about 50-60 mph. I checked the diff fluid and it was full and like new, no metal filings and not dark.
Only happens when the gas pedal is pushed and you're driving, not when freewheeling, so it's not a bearing I don't think.. Any ideas?

My guess would be a pinion bearing.

Motorcraft is a quality filter, Walmart should have them. Stay away from Fram.

Ok so I'm just going to drop and switch the oil today.. What's the best I can put in it considering mileage and engine etc? 10W-30? I live on the Northern US/ Canadian border so it gets -20c and lower sometimes in winter, so I need to keep that in mind too. Thanks

Use the EXACT OIL that Labnerd recommended and what I quoted.........

In the winter, I'd probably use the same oil but in 5W30.

Id look at U joints first, pinion second

I dropped the oil and put in the 10W 30 Pennzoil in the yellow bottle. I also had the differential checked out and it's the pinion bearing apparently and maybe the main bearing, so got to save up to get that fixed now.
Does anyone else have an extended cab like this? Have you noticed on the inside of the body by the frame just above the rockers, there are 6 large factory made holes in the outer skin of the bodywork that are covered up by little pieces of black tape? Looks like it was tape put on at the factory..
well, all my tape has peeled off and gone bad, and now all the mud, salt and road crap has gone inside the holes and is now sitting in a void inside the bodywork and there's absolutelyno way to wash it out of there.. What a stupid idea of Ford. My rockers are now rotting out from the inside. Has this happened to anyone else?

I just found out that all Pennzoil is in a yellow bottle now. Waiting on Labnerd to specify exactly which oil, there are 6 different ones.

Whichever one you used should be fine for now, just plan on 3000 mile changes to keep it clean.

Yeah, it slipped thru what little mind I have left that they have changed the packaging. The old yellow bottle is a conventional as labelled. The specs on it says it's a blended base oil.
https://i5.walmartimages.com/asr/524...0&odnBg=FFFFFF

I bought my 2013 FX4 with 122000 on it. and it runs like a scalded dog. The maintenance wasnt exactly on point by the previous owner. so far just drive belts and radiator hoses had to be replaced

I run motorcraft synthetic blend with MC filter. Does it matter? Wich is better?