Problems diagnosing misfire. Mode $06 data included

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Old 04-25-2017, 11:07 PM
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Problems diagnosing misfire. Mode $06 data included

Hello fine folks.

Been on at this misfire for months now. Had it into the mechanic a few times and to be honest they didn't have a clue and kept chargingetting me.

Here it goes

06 f150 5.4 triton 125k. 7 Original spark plugs one new.

I misfire around 70-80kmph when the car is trying to gently come out of low revs cruise.

If I accelerate hard I can avoid that happening. No trouble at idle or anything like that.

I got one engine code once saying cylinder 1. So I swapped the crappy original spark plug (it broke of course) I also swapped the coils over from cylinder 2 to see if that changed anything. It did not.

I was having trouble reading the $06 data as no values are showing. Then finally today I got misfires showing in multiple cylinders. The results are screen shotted below.












 
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Old 04-26-2017, 01:21 AM
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06 f150 5.4 triton 125k. 7 Original spark plugs one new.
Replace all of them. Also replace the COP springs and boots.
 
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Old 05-01-2017, 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by James Roockley
Hello fine folks.
Been on at this misfire for months now. Had it into the mechanic a few times and to be honest they didn't have a clue and kept chargingetting me.
Here it goes
06 f150 5.4 triton 125k. 7 Original spark plugs one new.
I misfire around 70-80kmph when the car is trying to gently come out of low revs cruise.
If I accelerate hard I can avoid that happening. No trouble at idle or anything like that.
...
...

In addition to the good advice by @glc, you might benefit from reading the following post and responses.
https://www.f150online.com/forums/v8...ml#post5159499


Your experience sounds _exactly_ like mine. Since using this procedure - (now at 225,000 miles) I never any misfires and no more broken plugs on removal. Mode six reports zero misfires in the last ten drive cycles. I have become even a stronger believer. And I don't use anti-seize.


Good luck
 
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Old 05-01-2017, 10:59 AM
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Antiseize is mandatory on the 04-08 5.4 3 valve with the 2 piece plugs - not on the threads, but on the shank between the threads and tip.
 
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Old 05-01-2017, 05:28 PM
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Originally Posted by glc
Antiseize is mandatory on the 04-08 5.4 3 valve with the 2 piece plugs - not on the threads, but on the shank between the threads and tip.


It ain't mandatory on mine! I don't want anything in that gap between the shank and the head.
 
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Old 05-01-2017, 06:41 PM
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Have fun getting them back out.................
 
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Old 05-01-2017, 08:22 PM
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I have - and without problems. BUT, that is one other aspect of it I should have mentioned along with my no anti-seize opinion. I will NEVER run them more than 50K miles again. I know the tips might last longer but to avoid random misfire problems the cost of a plug job every 50k or so is no problem. (And I will never let the carbon build up enough to bind the plugs). It's working out real good for me.
 
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Old 05-04-2017, 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by F150Torqued
In addition to the good advice by @glc, you might benefit from reading the following post and responses.
https://www.f150online.com/forums/v8...ml#post5159499


Your experience sounds _exactly_ like mine. Since using this procedure - (now at 225,000 miles) I never any misfires and no more broken plugs on removal. Mode six reports zero misfires in the last ten drive cycles. I have become even a stronger believer. And I don't use anti-seize.


Good luck
Can you share the type of brushes you used? Maybe a photo or web link?

thanks
 
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Old 05-04-2017, 07:59 PM
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I bought a set like this - because I wasn't sure what would be the optimum size.
https://www.harborfreight.com/engine...-pc-69020.html


Remove ALL plugs so you can rotate the engine easily (I used a ratchet/socket on the front pulley). I rotated the engine to TDC on each cylinder in turn as I did them keep brush from going all the way inside the cylinder. Make SURE you do this, or at least make sure the brush can't come loose to avoid the problem this fellow got into.
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/13...lp-piease.html


Each time I have repeated this procedure (at each plug change), I have just used a piece of coat hanger wire with a small piece of shop rag crimped on the end. I put it in my drill, soak the rag with carb cleaner and go at it again and again until it comes out of the hole clean. I believe this would actually work a first time too without even buying the wire brushes. It's actually safer (avoiding the above fellows problem. And I do not mind my coat hanger wire going all the way inside the cylinder. It'll come back out pretty easily by just wiggling it around and I don't have to worry about loosing it in there.


Good Luck and I would like to hear how it turns out for you when done.
 


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