So I just discovered Mishimoto makes a healthy 2 row, direct replacement radiator for '97-'03 F-150's!!! I am familiar with Mishimoto from the Ford Focus scene and if you are not familiar, it's goooooooood stuff. It's $600 from Summit.

Here's the problem...I currently, and for quite a while now, suffer from electrolysis. This is radiator number two it's chewed up. The problem is, I have not in the past installed any type of sacrificial electrode. I will be doing that the next time I replace the radiator...which it need right now...which is why I'm asking this question...

I don't mind spending the money on quality kit, but with knowing I have electrolysis, am I pretty stupid to spend that kind of cabbage on a top shelf radiator? Or just continue to buy sacrificial, RockAuto, $130 radiators? Would the sacrificial electrode save the radiator for the unforeseeable future, or is there just no way to know that for sure??

 

If you want a larger radiator, the one for the 7700 will bolt in and be much cheaper.

I bought a new 2000 F150 XLT Scab 4x4 with the 5.4 engine and tow package. In the Ford sales material, it stated that the tow package included additional engine cooling which was not true. Enough customers complained that Ford offered all purchasers of that package a new larger radiator, the one that came in the 7700 truck, $100, or $500 credit on a new truck. I chose the 7700 radiator for mine that I didn't really need I suppose.

 

Agreed, Ford sells a beefy dual core radiator works quite well and adds another Gallon capacity IIRC


As for electrolysis, I'd double up on engine and body ground wires/cables

 

Problem is, the Ford radiator is almost 500 bucks. Aftermarket heavy duty is a LOT cheaper.

 

I wouldn't spend the bucks until you have the issue corrected. I would add additional ground wires from the block to the frame, from the heads(both) to the frame, and one everybody seems to miss, the transmission lines to the frame. Since we're going into summer weather and hopefully where you live the threat of freezing is over, I wouldn't even use anti-freeze at this point. Use DISTILLED water only. Then check it for stray voltage. If it's gone, then go back with a good radiator and I would suggest, since yer a fan, to use Amsoils Propylene Glycol anti-freeze. But until you have the stray voltage under control. I wouldn't fix anything yet. I assume you know that the reason the radiator is being eaten is because the aluminum in it is the softest of the metals involved. Using an anode that comes on the radiator cap buys you nothing if that was the plan. An anode only works when there is a complete circuit- electrons going in and electrons coming out. If the cap is on a plastic bottle, it's even more worthless. Unless you just want to see the new radiator go away a lot faster, never ground the radiator directly. If you do, you just made it an anode.
Hopefully you've never mixed anti-freeze brands and have flushed between brand changes. If not, there's the chemistry that's causing the issue. A alkaline type flush will be needed and make sure to rinse until you think the flush water is clean enough to drink.....only don't drink it. If adding water-DISTILLED only.

 

Thanks Jim...and guys. I know all about the radiator options out there. If I were gonna spend $500 for a Ford radiator, I'd certainly spend $600 for the Mishimoto. RockAuto (common brands) LD radiators are $130 or less and that's what I've been doing. They work great, but I like spending money on my stuff, LOL. I've been running the bigger, 2 row, F250LD radiator for SEVERAL years now. In fact, this is number two the electrolysis has eaten through. I've been chasing this problem on this truck for many many years, including everything you recommended Jim. I've flushed the crap out of it two or three times. It's never had any antifreeze in it but Amsoil, thus zero threat of mixing brands. Have always used distilled water, but now Amsoil antifreeze comes premixed 50/50. Have not tried the additional grounding wires yet.

Yes, the anode hanging from the cap on the expansion tank was the plan...thank alot, LOL :-P. Someone also makes one that screws into the drain plug on the radiator; was going to use that one also.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fld-fhp32004

Thoughts on this one??

It's an annoying problem that I can't seem to run to ground (no pun intended), but oh well. It's an amazing truck that I'm never going to sell and if the worst that ever comes of this problem is a new $130 radiator every 5-8 years, I can live with that.

I do plan to pull the water pump this time as I have heard and seen photos of electrolysis eating the fins off the impeller in a water pump. I haven't checked the stray voltage in a long time, but I'm certain it's still there. Oh well.

 

If the radiator is corroding because it is constructed of aluminum and has the highest chemical potential in the cooling system, shouldn't the aluminum heads and water pump be corroding too?