5.4l Short block interchangeability
 

Hello everyone, New F150 owner here.

I've been searching a lot, but I couldn't seem to get a clear answer, so I apologize if my searching wasn't adequate.

I have a 2005 ford F150 with the 3v 5.4l engine in it. I bought it really cheap because the engine is seized up (I believe it had a faulty injector the hydrolocked it over night and bent a rod).

Now I'm in the process of getting the engine out for inspection, but I also want to be prepared incase there is damage to the block.

My question is would a block from an earlier 5.4l engine (2v) fit the heads from my current 5.4l (3v) without modification?

The reason I ask is because I can't seem to find a reasonably priced 3v 5.4 short or long block anywhere. the high milage used ones only cost a few hundred less than remans, and the remans tend to run right around $3000. but I could get a reman'd 2 valve for under $2000 and just swap over the heads if the need be.

any help would be greatly appreciated!:beers:

If you can get a reman 3V with a warranty for 3 grand, I'd jump on it.

That seems like the going rate, on eBay there's even one that is $2500 with $300 shipping and a 3 year warranty, I'm just looking to bring the cost down a little cheaper than that

Naturally the more you spend the better engine you will get. 2005 have a faulty injector issue. There is a letter at the top of the page that year has an extended warrenty on injector failure if the engine has under 120k on it you might be able to still get a whole new engine from ford. I'd hurry because the program ends this year. Any 3-v 5.4 engine will swap. Used good engines are getting kind of pricy. If it were me I would find an 08+ because they have many updates. Heres the extended letter http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/sd...229_r07m08.pdf

I bought one from Power train products they have a great no fault warranty check them out.

I wouldn't go cheap on a reman engine.

I had a cheap genuine NEW Goodwrench 350 V8 (Made in Mexico) ($1200) installed in my 86 Monte Carlo SS that had a 3 yr. 36k mile warranty. At 5k miles the first was replaced (burning oil). 10k more miles and the second one was replaced (burning oil). I had another car by this time and I rarely drove it. But after sitting for a while and starting it produced a big cloud of smoke telling me that the valve seals were not working or most likely the valve guides were too large. So, the third engine was a POS too. I finally sold the car to someone who wanted to refurb it.

Jethat: Yup, I've read that Customer satisfaction letter, but unfortunately my truck has 200,000 miles on it :/

CW974x4: yup I got a quote from them, but it was still over $3000

Roadie: oh jeez that's quite a horror story:/ sorry to hear that happened to you. I'm actually starting to think I might just end up rebuilding my old engine myself, that way I know it's done right and its significantly cheaper, just no warranty

I'd find some one with experience because of the engines complexity or I'd go used. I probably would chose the used option and I'd find an engine out of an 08-11 with all the updates. DO NOT reuse the injectors.

Rebuilding the engine yourself is a good thing if you know enough about what you are doing and are meticulous. It doesn't take much of a mistake to ruin the whole job.

I've rebuilt 3 engines in my day. The first one at 19 yrs of age. 56 chevy V8 It lasted until I traded the car about 7k miles later. The second one was when I was 24 my 65 327 Chevelle. I got the rear main seal in backwards based on the military craft shop mechanic's advice and didn't get the valve seals in properly also following the dumbaxx mechanic's advice. It was easily corrected on an old simple car so no big deal. The 3rd was a 455 Pontiac when I was 36. I screwed up the rear rope seal and the cam was too tight after the machine shop installed new bearings. That engine didn't last long I think. I traded it because I didn't have confidence in the result. I think at age 71 I could rebuild one properly but I don't have the desire to do tackle a job that big in these modern complicated vehicles. The second time I pulled the engine in my 65 Chevelle, it took only one hour. 45 minutes later I had a new rear main bearing seal installed correctly. It took me many hours just to change the plugs in my truck.

yeah, we'll see, I plan on checking for run out in the cylinders, and if they look ok and it is just a bent rod ill probably just do: Rods, Pistons, Rings, and bearings and call it good.

also out of curiosity what exactly were the updates that came in 2008?

The main one I can think of is midyear they redesigned the heads to use a standard one piece spark plug.

well here's an update to my situation:

I've got the old engine pulled, and got the valve covers off today before I ran out of time. I found one of the Rocker arms sitting in the galleys under there, missing its roller. It appears the engine ran like that for a while because the cam lobe that rocker came off of was brown with oil impregnation while the rest were shiney clean metal where the rollers touch the lobes.

I'm planning on pulling the heads tomorrow to see what the cylinders look like.