How To: 2005 5.4 3v Oil Pan & Pump
 

Well, having been around here for over 10 years, and not contributing much of anything useful, here is my attempt at a How-To for Oil Pan & Pump.

Something most of us here at F150online.com may have to do is replace timing chains, tensioners and guides. If any of those components break, you would be foolish not to drop the pan and clean out the debris. Not doing so is foolish, IMO. Having been in this exact situation, I decided to drop the pan and replace the Oil Pump. I followed the Ford Service Information Manual. If you open your timing cover and see this, you should drop the pan. You must take off the timing cover, chains, crank sprocket, etc, to replace the oil pump. Tools I used: 3/8" pneumatic impact, assorted sockets and ratchets, 13 mm wobble socket for oil pan, torque wrench, Permatex black RTV, brake clean, floor creeper, zip ties, scissor jack, floor jack, wood blocks or jack stands, razor blade, shop towels. Time for this job is difficult to estimate. I would approximate it at 3 hours.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.f15...1e88297e29.jpg


Here is my "How To".

1 Jacked up front of vehicle and rested it on wood blocks so that the front tires were about 2" off the ground. This gave me adequate clearance to move around under the truck. Of course, a lift would be preferred.

2 Drain engine oil (should have already drained if timing cover is off)

3 Remove skid plate (if installed)

4 Remove 4 bolts and the frame crossmember. Soak these a day or two before hand with Kroil or equivalent to aid in removal. Mine were not a problem. I think the skid plate kept them from getting too bad.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.f15...eaf80fd84b.jpg

5 Detach the starter wiring harness support bracket ( Either I don't have one or I couldn't find it.)

6 Position a jack under the front axle. I used a floor jack under the differential and the F150's scissor jack under the axle housing passenger side. I had just enough room for my crawler to fit between the two jacks.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.f15...015dbaafcb.jpg

7 With the Axle supported by the jacks remove the upper front axel carrier mounting bushing bolt. The manual calls for rotating the steering column for access. I did not have a problem here. Note: power steering pump has been removed

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.f15...05a7c6cf0c.jpg

8 Remove the passenger side axle carrier housing bolt. ( The manual calls for removing a third bolt, I did not need to do this.)

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.f15...791b37fc66.jpg

9 Lower Axle on passenger side first. If you can, use the scissor jack here. I found it very easy to lower the axle using only my hand on the jacks worm gear. Lower it about 2" as shown below.







https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.f15...40e214fbb2.jpg

10 Drop the drivers side an inch or so. I have read where some have lowered only the passenger side. I had enough room dropping the drivers side as described.


11 Disconnect the oil sending harness from the passenger side of oil pan.

12 Using wire zip ties or equivalent, pull this mess aside as shown. (I did not realize this when removing the pan.)

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.f15...ba00e64e85.jpg





I didn't realize this initially.

13 Remove the 12 bolts. (there are 16, but this is assuming you have the timing cover already off)


14 The oil pan should come right out. Drop and slide to rear. The gasket has a white silicone "insert" that will seperate from the black plastic. Be careful not to damage the gasket. It may stick to the silicone bead. Work it loose easily as the Gasket is re-usable. Inspect gasket for damage. Clean out oil pan. Note what debris you find and decide where it came from. I let my pan drain overnight. Aside from Chain Guide pieces, there was just about zero fine debris within, ie: metal shavings, etc.

15 Remove the pick up tube bolt just above the screen. You can remove the 2 bolts holding the pick up tube to the pump, but I removed it together. You can't see the bolt here but it is just above the screen.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.f15...34a9806cf9.jpg

16 Remove the 3 bolts on front of oil pump. Note how the old pump is seated on the crankshaft, make sure the new one gets seated the same way.

17 Gently pull straight out, as you encounter some resistance, rotate the pump clockwise about 90 degrees and gently work and pull forward. It should come right out in one assembly.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.f15...7f70d1643a.jpg


https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.f15...cd11f40089.jpg

18 On the new pump and pick up tube, Take a new O-Ring, lubricate with clean engine oil and place on pick up tube that mates to pump and bolt up (89in lbs) the pick up tube to the pump. ***(If you are using the old pick-up tube or a new one, replace the O-ring between the pick-up tube and the pump) Position the new oil pump. Slide it in with pick up screen at the 9 O clock and rotate it counter clock wise when you feel resistance. Just the reverse of how it was removed. You will most likely have to cajole the 'keyway' of the pump impeller to the crankshaft. This took me a while, but I got it. If you took out the pump and pick up tube together, put it back the same way. If you put the whole assembly in, you will know if it is seated properly because the pick up tube to spacer bolt will line up with the crankcase threads. Torque the three pump bolts to 89 in lbs. (The 4th bolt will be installed & torqued with LH Timing Chain Guide) Bolt up the pick up screen end, 18 ft lbs.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.f15...ae7df02714.jpg

19 Clean all surfaces where oil pan mates to block. Ensure gasket is clean and free of blemishes and defects. Remove old silicone at the crankshaft rear seal retainer plate to cylinder block sealing surface and up front where the timing cover, block, and oil pan meet.

20 Apply sealant at the 'four corners'
21 place gasket over the pan, tabs down, and bolt up 'hand tight'. Working from the mid point of oil pan out, torque the pan in three stages.
stage 1 tighten to 18 in lbs
stage 2 tighten to 15 ft lbs
stage 3 tighten an additional 60 degrees (I could only get about 20 degrees, the bolts were bottomed out)

Getting the pan back up was difficult as space is tight with those 2 jacks under there with you.

22 Remove the zip ties
23 Slowly jack up the drivers side, if needed to align for the bolt. Insert bolt, start the bolt to hold the axle.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.f15...5bf82e39aa.jpg

24 Jack up the passenger side until the housing aligns with the bracket, insert bolt. Torque both bolts to 66 ft lbs. You may need to assist back into place with a pry bar.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.f15...afb7e23926.jpg


25 Position the frame cross-member and the 4 bolts, torque to 75 ft lbs. Reinstall skid plate if applicable.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.f15...9f2d2d2ff6.jpg

26 After installing a new oil filter and filling crankcase with oil, Prime the oil pump by cranking the engine, no more than 15 seconds at a time. You can disconnect the Crank sensor for this or hold the accelerator to the floor ( I am told).

Cheers.

Good Write-up! Thanks for the effort! I hope I don't have to dig into mine!

How is that high pressure oil pump working? I'm thinking of going this route too when I do my timing chains.

This truck has never ran/ sounded this good and I am still running stock tune. I would like to think this pump has something to do with it as it was not cheap.

Thanks for the reply. Yeah at a 150 bucks I would hope it helps this motor out. Sounds like I'll be doing the same to mine and upgrading to this high pressure pump.

Thanks again.

I ended up getting the FRPP oil pump as it was high pressure and high volume and was cheaper... time to do all my timing and oil pump change when my parts come in..

Good luck!

Nice writeup.

Thanks!

If you remove the pickup tube from the pump it should have a replacement Oring installed.


Nice write up!

@nu-supercrew , just wondering if you have an aftermarket oil pressure gauge and have an idea of difference in before / after pressures under various operating conditions?
I'm collecting parts for the job also (including Melling 10340). I have jotted pressure readings down and will post my before and after readings when I'm done. While I don't consider mine really slouchy, just taking the extra precaution and am very curious.

Well, you know, oil pressure is kinda a fluid thing. (no pun intended). lol Sorta depends on multiple things, so here goes. The truck has 212,000 miles - has been well maintained and no major repairs (yet - but Timing job is coming).


Right now, I'm running 5w30 Full Syn Mobil 1. Temp around here (San Antonio, TX) is sorta a cool 40-43 degrees. When I crank her up cold - it idles in neutral way up around 73 to 75 lbs till it idles down (30 secs) to around normal 600-625 R's then holds at 65-68. In gear or using 5w20 don't make any difference under these conditions. @ 2000 rpms - its pegged at 75 to 80 lbs.


Now FULL ENGINE OPERATING temperature on a warm winter day (70-80 deg, like later this week!), with 5w30, in gear, w A/C running, it will idle (590 - 610 R's) at 21 lbs pressure +/- 1. with 5w20 - about 17-18 lbs. On 100 degree summer days, both will be 1 lb less. BUT It JUMPS smartly with any rpm increase - to 45lb range by 800-900 rpms. @ 2000 it is running a solid 65 lbs. Cruising 55 mph it's running 17-1800 rpms and about 55 lbs.


I'm going to see what the Melling 10340 does (for curiosity sake). They "claim" it is high volume. Without changing anything else - fluid dynamics dictates that moving more fluid through the same restriction should result in increased pressure. HOWEVER - I am not advocating that more pressure is a life or death matter for these motors. Actually, what I have now is probably just fine. But I hope to drive this thing another 200,000 miles and hope the 10340 helps achieve that.

Suggested **CAUTION**
 

@nu-supercrew

I now have a suggested **CAUTION** for your HOW TO item #18, based on (painfully expensive) personal experience.


http://www.devoll.com/public/F150_Ph...ling_10340.JPG

You correctly state:

The pickup tube with "O"-ring can be attached to the pump before (as you suggest), or after installing the pump (As I did). You have to go underneath to attach the pickup tube support to crankcase either way. But in either case, the pickup tube bolt into the crankcase should be "started" finger tight BEFORE TORQUING the four oil pump bolts to avoid what happened to me. The pump looked aligned fine from the top side. I torqued bolts to spec - then went underneath and mounted the pickup tube only to find it would not align with crankcase bolt. Loosened pump bolts and discovered THIS! I said bad words that my mommy said I should never say. :(

Oh NO! I know you posted this awhile back, but how did it turn out? Did you get another Melling or go with Ford High Performance?

Bit the bullet and got another MELLING
 

I found another Melling 10340 at a local O'Riley Auto Parts for $168 plus tax. OUCH! An expensive screw up. And THAT wasn't my only one :mad:. I removed the four bolts from the front of the A/C compressor before noticing it bolts to the block underneath from the side! Broke the seal on the compressor clam shell. A Respectable A/C guy recommended that with 212,000 miles on it and the compressor seal broken I would be wise to just replace it with a new one compressor and dryer or I could expect problems. ANOTHER $330.00 in parts & evacuation/recharge!!


http://www.devoll.com\Public\F150_Ph...g_Oil_Pump.JPG


But after going high dollar first class on EVERYTHING else - including ALL new lash adjusters, roller followers, plugs, and new injectors!, I wasn't going to let this "STUPID MISTAKES" compromise the job.

http://www.devoll.com\Public\F150_Ph...uide Bank2.JPG

She cranks with cold oil pressure 94 lbs, idles in gear hot at 25 lbs, and cruises 60 mph at 75 lbs on 5w30 full syn Mobile 1, sounds like a Swiss watch and you can stand a nickel on edge on the air cleaner while its idling - and blows COLD air. Has noticable increase in power and appears mpg is going to be up maybe 3 mpg to around 15 city/urban driving.

Any reason why you aren't running the recommended 5w20?

@glc, I was running 0w40 before the Phaser job and observed some improvement in the lash adjuster ticking and hot idle oil pressure (low was around 19 instead of 16 with 5w20). After the timing job I just felt the lower end would benefit from the 5w30 212,000 miles on it. I can observe with my scanner that the cam retard / advance action responds to PCM commands 'slightly' more sluggish on 0w40 or 5w30 than it did with 5w20. But it is not slow enough to trip a DTC (I understand >5 Cksº for >5 Sec's = over advance/retard DTC as appropriate). Nothing real scientific. Just sorta' a gut feeling of mine with that many miles.


Actually, with the dramatic improvement in Oil Pressure with the Melling 10340, I may try 5w20 next change. I have found from my after market OP gauge that idle oil pressure declines with mileage on the oil. So I'll watch that and factor it into that decision.


Thanks for asking.

You said 10w30 before you edited your post after I posted - 5w30 is fine. You need the better cold flow characteristics of a 0w or 5w oil.

You're right. I didn't notice I had fickle-fingered the weight till I read your post. I didn't (or don't) see in this thread where you said 5w30 is fine, but I do agree about cold flow characteristics. I would actually use 0w30 if I could find it. My reasoning for that is - the OP gauge indicated cold oil pressure was fine even before the oil pump change. Cold pressure with 0w40 was around 63 lbs - about 3 lbs less than with the recommended 5w.


And of course the other factor that plays into the equation is, the south Texas climate.

Originally, I only asked why you weren't using 5w20 - I didn't say anything about 5w30 until after you replied. There really isn't much difference between 5w20 and 5w30 anyway.

That's great!

Hey @nu-supercrew , what happened to your great, helpful photos in your original post of this thread?

They are still there. Clear your browser cache and reload the page.

You're right @glc - it is a cache related issue - but with an interesting caveat that might help someone else down the road.


I didn't initially consider your suggestion because I very recently upgraded this computer to latest version of Explorer 11. But I cleared browser cache anyway, reloaded Explorer and browsed to the page - to no avail.


Further curious, I went to another workstation - and BINGO - all photos are there like you said. So ????? - I cleared that computer's browser cache and I'll be damned, THEY ARE GONE, only the place holders appear.


So, the Forum server is "caching" larger files served (probably by size and a specified time since last modification) to more efficiently serve up pages without sending those large files each time. I have seen that setting in my web server before, but have never played around with it. I had tried using "F5" to refresh the page, but that didn't work. So I guess - after a period of time - set by a parameter in the Forum server - , those pictures will "re-appear" on the browser of this computer?? INTERESTING.

I never have that issue with Firefox.

Nice chain guides!

I see you did not get the oil pump far enough on the crankshaft spindle. Did you try to let some one tig weld it to see if would could be welded together? Thanks for walk through on dropping the oil pan. Quite helpful when changing the timing chain/cam phaser project.