Everything that has to do with ignition timing is brand new. What could cause the timing advance to drop below 0 degrees when I step on the gas pedal? It works fine when I go easy on the pedal. It advances timing correctly upto 40 degrees. And it has power doesn't hesitate at all. Only when I floor it it lacks power and at the same time, timing drops below zero then gratuately picks up and you can start feeling some power then.

 

But it strikes me that opening the throttle plates removes all vacuum from the intake. Anything vacuum related could be affected. Not sure what vacuum actuated system could be causing the timing problem though.

 

I checked and double checked all vacuum lines to make sure all is good. But timing advance is done by oil pressure via the vcts selinoides and the cam phasers. And both are brand new. I took it off road 4x4 to see how it would react today and it's crappy. I tried to go up a steep hill and all it did was start off strong. Then all power is lost, it just bogs down and nothing no power at all.

 

I was all day reading all the sites regarding this problem. I got a hint about a fuel something valve located in the back part of the truck somewhere next to the spare tire. I will take a look at it this week end and as my last resort, replace it and see how it goes. I will keep you posted if it fixed the bogging or not.

 

There are 2 different timings that I think you are mixing up - there's camshaft timing and there's ignition timing.

You are describing the FPDM.

 

Yes that's exactly what I was talking about. I don't know what it looks like but I'm hoping my local parts store has it big not I'll be going back to the Ford stealer.
So what exactly does this part play in the bogging part of the timing? I know it controls fuel. But it's my last resort.

 

Ok the local auto parts store does not carry FPDM or not listed. I will call the dealer in the AM.
So all I put in the truck is cam timing. Is there another timing a should replace or is it this FPDM?

 

^^^ It doesn't. FPDM's don't care aboot timing.

However, if it's failing due to corrosion or otherwise, fuel pressure is randomly affected. That in itself can cause load-based 'bogging'

Don't buy a Dorman FPDM - go for a Motorcraft unit. Try Rockauto, or a dealer.

Here is a bypass you can try to check if it's the FPDM or not.

--> https://www.f150online.com/forums/el...-no-start.html

MGD

 

If so, do you have a part number ? Thanks for the info. It's been three months of just parts labor, more parts more labor. Other parts and more labor. And still doing the same this it was doing from the beginning.

 

Motorcraft Part # in here: https://www.f150online.com/forums/ar...placement.html

Dorman P/N: 590-001 if you need it.

Try the bypass first - and inspect the unit for obvious trauma. Who knows - may not be the FPDM that's at fault.

MGD

 

Rock Auto doesn't have a Motorcraft FPDM listed, just Dorman and Airtex/Wells.

Motorcraft P/N: 4L3Z-9D370-A

It will be a lot cheaper from Tasca than your local dealer.

 

Thanks for you valuable info. If pressure should be 70 lbs. I'm only getting 40 max on the fuel rail according to my scanner tuner. On the drive cycle test the fuel pressure is 40 max. So that could be one of my problems. I'll work on this one tomorrow hopefully I can get it resolved. Thanks

 

Well I'm back and with the same problem as before. I managed to swap the FPDM from a known working truck with no symptoms as mine. Still lack of power, timing advance on scanner shows timing dropping below 0 degrees and lack of power. If I let go off the gas pedal a little bit. Timing advance starts to gain little by little and it's when the truck starts to rev up and pick up speed faster.
I'm lost and confused now. Don't know what to do now. I'm afraid to sell it after I know that everything is brand new. And who ever buys it will want to buy it cheap since the lack of power.
I'm open for any more ideas. Thanks for your patience with me.

 

This is why I'm getting rid of my 05 as soon as I get it back together and find an old dodge with 318 or 360 with a 727 or an old chevy with a 350.

 

I don't blame you. Had I known this before I did the heads, valves, timing chains, guides and tensioneres I would of just got rid of it then. But now I'm over $4k into it.
I just took it out for one week to work out of state over a 10 hour drive. All is well no problems what so ever. Gas mileage is lowere then before but not much. No over heating, no hesitation nothing. Just lacks the power it used to have upon acceleration. I'm thinking it has something to do with the 3 valves or the variable timing. In other words the term V Tech in Hondas which gives it the extra power to race.