Did my timing chain really jump??

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  #31  
Old 03-08-2012, 08:18 PM
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Wow this just got real hostile towards blackout for no apparent reason imo. I hope you get it figured out! You could try pulling off the driver side valve cover and put the motor at top dead center and see if the crank / cam align properly.

If you switched the sensors and it still is pulling a code on bank 2 then its either the wiring, PCM or it really did some how jump but then the only way I could see that is if the Tensioner failed and you would hear an audiable chain slap. One thing to check for is a loud alternator. The noise can actually throw off the CMP sensor.

I never had a CMP out of a F150 but I believe they are Hall effect sensors. If thats true then here is how to diagnose the harness with a DVOM.

This shows what pins the sensors are at the PCM. I believe its the middle connector of wires at the PCM.


This shows what the pins are at the CMP Sensor






 

Last edited by IR0NS1N; 03-08-2012 at 08:31 PM.
  #32  
Old 03-08-2012, 11:20 PM
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Originally Posted by IR0NS1N
Wow this just got real hostile towards blackout for no apparent reason imo.
Not hostile, just honest. I mean that's what we are all going for here , correct?

Post up one case of timing chain jump with a modular. If you were to loose everything keeping tension, you would hear the chain carving a hole into the cover before it would jump anywhere.

They have been put back together incorrectly, many times and ending with horseshoed valves. That's to common lol.

If you really want to know what's going on up top, pop the cam cover and crank the starter (with run systems canceled) or disconnect injectors and Crank Sensor. Crank and monitor cam, spring and valve movement. EVERY set up per cylinder (above) should move exactly the same w/cam movement (per lobe interaction). You'll probably see what's going on, - if the gaskets alright.

You can also crank by hand to inspect movement or use a Milwaukee Hole Shooter, -if you have the room.
 
  #33  
Old 03-09-2012, 12:09 PM
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Wow this thread is hurting my brain. I have fixed a 5.4 before where the chain skipped and a few where it would have, just a matter of time.

OHC engines have long chains and if the tensioner slacks and the chain has stretch, it will skip.

Sounds like this could be your problem.

Do you have chain noise when running? sounds like a ratle from the front of the engine?

look here for a write up

http://www.f150forum.com/f4/final-re...-sound-141266/

I have seen chains jump on hondas (accord 4 cyl) dodge V8, nissans.

it happens
 
  #34  
Old 03-09-2012, 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by s_vares
Wow this thread is hurting my brain. I have fixed a 5.4 before where the chain skipped and a few where it would have, just a matter of time.

OHC engines have long chains and if the tensioner slacks and the chain has stretch, it will skip.

Sounds like this could be your problem.

Do you have chain noise when running? sounds like a ratle from the front of the engine?

look here for a write up

http://www.f150forum.com/f4/final-re...-sound-141266/

I have seen chains jump on hondas (accord 4 cyl) dodge V8, nissans.

it happens
You should wait until your brain heels before posting IMO. This isn't a ricer engine. Comparing that fact to a modular doesn't hold much water. SOHC or DOHC.
 
  #35  
Old 03-09-2012, 12:29 PM
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BTW- Great write up, thanks for posting.
 
  #36  
Old 03-09-2012, 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by jbrew
You should wait until your brain heels before posting IMO. This isn't a ricer engine. Comparing that fact to a modular doesn't hold much water. SOHC or DOHC.
Sorry, you must have misread. There was no comparison
I repaired a 5.4 that jumped timing not 8 months ago. The chains are long and the tensioner and guides hold it tight. If they slack coupled with chain stretch they jump. It doesnt happen often im sure, but I dont think my customer went on a forum to tell the tale.
He brought it in, I pulled it down, fixed it, he gave me money, and drove away.

Because you have not read about it yet, does not make it impossible or even unlikey.

Maybe I fixed the only one it ever happend to? Im not sure, but right side timing was out teeth and the truck ran like a dog, check engine light saying cam timing out.

Glad you like the write up, I try to share what I have learned to help others.
 
  #37  
Old 03-09-2012, 03:06 PM
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Yea, That link is good as it points out exactly what I have. I like the diagrams as well. That saved me from possibly posting them up, IF this thread progressed in that direction. That model year is in my data base for reference. Your link points out the obvious things to look for. Remember, It's just one cylinder that's below normal, a good stretch below. This is why you look towards the mechanicals above THAT cylinder first, - using the others for comparison. Simple to do and you may catch the problem quickly without ripping into it to far.

Can only say that in so many ways. I am running short on them
 
  #38  
Old 03-09-2012, 09:46 PM
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All sensors and wiring checks out. I did some datalogging and happened to notice my spark at idle is all over the place, jumping between 5 and 35. Oil pressure is good, so it looks like my cam phaser is to blame. Jim at JDM said for the timing to jump around like that, it most likely has to be phaser jumping around, mechanical problem. Ive pulled the valve covers and everything looks good as far as valveteain components(tensioner, chain, cam, cam caps, rollers). So now im leaning toward a phaser issue i guess. Im going out of town for a week or so, but ill post back when i return after i have attempted solving the phaser issue.

Just an update without bumping this to the top, lockouts solved the problem so it was a phaser issue.
 

Last edited by BlackOut07; 03-27-2012 at 08:25 PM. Reason: update
  #39  
Old 03-10-2012, 05:55 PM
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Yea when I do cams I'm changing phasers too
 
  #40  
Old 04-18-2012, 01:41 AM
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how do I tell if my timing chain jumped on a 1997 ford 4.6 engine. It wont run now but was running very well before this event happened. Is there a way to check to see if timing jumped or should I just rip into it?
 
  #41  
Old 05-28-2012, 10:47 AM
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My 5.4L timing chain did jump with good tensioners

On my 99 expedition with the 5.4L out of the blue while driving it began running horrible. Pulled over and it stalled. I could restart it but it certainly wouldn't run well enough to drive.

I checked the cam sensor on the drivers side and still got a pulse when cranking. I had spark on all cylinders, checked every fuel injector with noid lights, excellent fuel pressure, excellent compression on the 4 plugs I could easily get to.

Pulled the valve covers and checked that the tensioners were ok. All still good. (I didn't check the timing marks, big mistake)

I proceeded to keep working with it checking electrical and starting it to see if it was better.

I started it for the last time, reved up to about 1500rpm, and it completely lost power. No longer cranking uniform. Checked compression, the driver side two plugs I could get to, no longer had any compression. &$@+

I pulled off the valve cover, now all the cam followers are laying in the bottom of the head.

I pull the timing cover and find that the drivers side timing chain is so stretched that it doesn't fully seat going around the cam sprocket. How I didnt notice this before I will never know. I feel like a moron for not looking closer when I had the cover off, not to mention why I didnt rotate the engine to check that the chain and sprocket alignment marks were right.

Valves bent on every cylinder.

The keyway on the crank sheared off on the sprocket for the drivers side

New timing chain kit has both crank sprockets as one assembly (much better)

New chains, tensioners, and guides.

New head and getting ready to fire it up for the first time later tonight. Hope that this helps someone else keep from destroying part of their engine like I did.
 

Last edited by Cswett; 05-28-2012 at 10:49 AM.
  #42  
Old 05-28-2012, 10:53 AM
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OP has a 3V. Good post tho. Well , not good... You know what I mean.
 

Last edited by jbrew; 05-28-2012 at 10:56 AM. Reason: OP 3V



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