Please help! Help timing a 5.4 3 valve!!!
#1
Please help! Help timing a 5.4 3 valve!!!
Hey guys I am in need of immediate help! I am working on my dad's ford f150. It has the 5.4 liter motor with the 3 valve heads. So far we have completely torn down the motor due to a melted piston, we had it bored .030 over, acid bathed & prepped, and have since completely assembled it again with quality OE parts. That being done we moved to the heads and we freshened them up in our garage by disassembling them and washing all the individual parts in our parts washed, lapping the valves, and those are now reassembled.
what we are needing now are instructions on how to time the damn thing from scratch!
Please all input is appreciated I absolutely need to get this thing running right the first time. tearing it down again because of a bent valve IS NOT an option
Thanks in advance!
what we are needing now are instructions on how to time the damn thing from scratch!
Please all input is appreciated I absolutely need to get this thing running right the first time. tearing it down again because of a bent valve IS NOT an option
Thanks in advance!
#2
The stock 5.4 3V is a non-interference motor so you can't bend a valve by having it out of time.
As far as timing it goes it's pretty easy. Get it to TDC on the crank. There are timing marks on the crank sprocket and on the phasers and also a dark link on each timing chain. If you install the chains with all the marks aligned with the dark links you got it. It's that simple. The chiltons or haynes also has a reasonable diagram in it as well if you feel the need to have a picture. There will be some pressure on the cams from the valve springs. I used a pair of vice grips behind the phasers to turn the cam to align with the chain mark with the cam sprocket mark. You will want to install the tensioners and guides prior to putting the chains on but don't remove the retainer clips on tensioners until you have the timing marks all aligned for the crank, cams, and chains.
As far as timing it goes it's pretty easy. Get it to TDC on the crank. There are timing marks on the crank sprocket and on the phasers and also a dark link on each timing chain. If you install the chains with all the marks aligned with the dark links you got it. It's that simple. The chiltons or haynes also has a reasonable diagram in it as well if you feel the need to have a picture. There will be some pressure on the cams from the valve springs. I used a pair of vice grips behind the phasers to turn the cam to align with the chain mark with the cam sprocket mark. You will want to install the tensioners and guides prior to putting the chains on but don't remove the retainer clips on tensioners until you have the timing marks all aligned for the crank, cams, and chains.
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ok, great I did some homework and viewed a link that was PM'ed to me (https://www.f150online.com/forums/v8...-hit-head.html) and I'm guessing it would have to be off by a few teeth to cause damage? Well that doesn't matter I'm going to get it right the first time hopefully. The bad news is that when I went to work on it today I was torque-ing down the head bolts and I stupidly forgot to get new ones... so now I went to Oreilly's and forked over $100 for some fel pro bolts I guess I'll be on it tomorrow morning
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alright guys sorry I havent updated yall in a few days. I've been really sick. but I finally got back to work on the truck and guess what? FINALLY PICTURES! this would be good news but I have a feeling I screwed up big time with the timing or something along those lines. I got the crankshaft to where the dot was pointing downwards and then installed the chains with the single marked link on the dot of the crankshaft and with the double marked links right between the arrows on the cams. I thought this was right but when I finally started the truck today it ran like *****!! and i have the following codes: P0345 P0349 P0355 P0356 P0357 P0356 P0357 P0358 P2197
I realize some of these codes might be because of a misfire because i started pulling COP wires to check for a bad sparkplug, but get this, on the driver side bank it makes no difference if I remove the COP wires or if i leave them in....
I realize some of these codes might be because of a misfire because i started pulling COP wires to check for a bad sparkplug, but get this, on the driver side bank it makes no difference if I remove the COP wires or if i leave them in....
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