I have finally built up anough courage to tackle the spark plug change on my truck, I own a 2005 F150 with the 5.4. I have ordered the lisle tool and waiting for that to arrive. I was going to pick up the plugs this week and just need some clarifaction on which plug to get. I see several numbers floating around here some use Motorcraft SP-507 and others use SP-515 I know 507 is plantium and 515 is double plantium Which should I use for my truck? I called the dealer and they want $20 a piece and from researching online I think they must be the 515's So is that what I should get? I was going to get them off ebay for about half the cost. I just wanted to make sure I was getting the right ones.

Thanks for the help
Jeff

 

You haven't researched enough....you can get the MC sp515 from rockauto or oriellys for 8-10 each

You ll need to also run a bottle of techron through a tank of gas before changing the plugs....

 

Thanks 88

Techron is that something I get from ford? I was at an autoparts store today and the best they could come up with was injector cleaner


Jeff

 

You can buy it at Walmart.

 

Thanks BlueJay

One more question. Why to some people use the MC SP-507 and other use the SP-515?

 

When I decided it was time to change the plugs (2006 Mark LT 4x2, 5.4, 35,000 miles) with the Motorcraft SP 515’s. Although I knew about the carbon build-up/plug removal issue, I decided not to change the plugs until there was a replacement plug that I was comfortable with…meaning I knew it was a good quality plug in terms of component design and construction. Although I did following the most recent TSB, I also relied on my experience back in the 1970’s when aluminum heads & intake manifolds were just entering the street scene and never-seize did not exist. Here are the exceptions to the TSB that I did…
1. I ran Lucas fuel injection cleaner, mixed at 3 times their recommendation in 1 full tank of gasoline. Purpose…if I was lucky, it would dissolve or loosen any carbon buildup (although many do a real fuel injection cleaning also- and it is probably a best practice to do if you have more than 45-50,000 miles on the plugs)
2. Although I am a fan of PB Blaster, I used a product called ChemSearch “Yield”. The issue I have with using carb cleaner is the lack of lubrication…..in the old days of removing steel plugs from aluminum heads, we use to mix up acetone & ATF…or of we needed more lubrication, kerosene & ATF, “Yield” provides this lubrication- much better IMHO than even PB Blaster.
3. Yes, I put anti-seize on the plug threads (I know the TSB says not to)
4. Of course…a lot of patience, I really doubt if I ever put more than 20-25 lbs of force during removal (purposefully)
The end result, only one plug even “squeaked” coming out (but it basically unscrewed like a regular plug- literally). Plug #4 was initially a little stubborn, but after the second try, then waiting about 30 minutes, it came out with very little effort…just kept wiggling the plugs (tightening/loosening) by 1/8th or even less of a turn- and they all came out without a single one breaking or any issue really.
Actual working time: 2 hours…..including washing my hands, total time was 5 hours.
FYI- Why I choose Motorcraft.
In the 1970’s I ran (like many) Champion’s in just about everything (even had the gold palladiums), but stopped in the early 1980’s when they changed their copper-core design and the resulting quality problems that IMHO still exist today. Since then I have run Splitfire (non-platinum) in my old world (1960’s) cars, Bosch in my late 1990’s vehicles (both because the cylinder head design really prefers these types of plugs), but I really had hesitation because of the construction/component quality of the non-Motorcraft plugs and really questioned the durability in this application about the Motorcraft SP508 or SP 509’s which are single platinum. Given the types of loads and burn/flame promulgation rates in the chambers, I really had doubts about the style of the plug with single platinum having the ability to “survive” as long as they engineers said. What do ya know…the SP 515’s are double platinum.

 

The SP-507 predates the SP-515. The SP-507 is being phased out.

 

Chevron gas stations sell it on the shelf as well

 

You can buy the Techron fuel injector cleaner at most auto parts stores, I bought it at O'Reilly's Auto part's, I ran 2 tanks of gas thru mine with techron and they were still a PIA to break loose. I used the SP-515, got them from Rock Auto for $9 each. My truck only had 49000 miles on it. I used the removal method numerous others have mentioned, break the first plug loose 1/4 turn and spray carb cleaner in the plug well and move to the next plug. I did the drivers side like this, got to the back plug and moved back to the front plug and worked them back & forth a few times and all 8 came out without breaking. Something I did that I haven't seen mentioned, when each plug was almost out I covered it with a rag and blew the excess carb cleaner out of the plug well with my air compressor so that it didn't go into the cylinder.
I was amazed the truck was still running as good as it was, the gap was almost .100 and like I said before the truck only has 49000 miles on it.

 

Jeff, lot's of good removal advice here.

FYI, the plugs will come out hard no matter what. Don't be surprised if they screech as they come out also and that's normal as well. The issue is whether they break or not. If they don't screech and come out real easy (like spark plugs use to), that usually means the tip has broken off and you get to try the Lisle tool.

I second (or third) the notion that the Techron additive is a good idea. It's a combustion chamber cleaner and will loosen carbon. The same stuff is also marketed as "Shell V-Power." Run two full strength loads thru.

Using one of the high detergent Top Tier gasolines (Google Top Tier Gasoline to get all the current brands) does the same thing at the Techron additves but it will take a lot longer than two tankfuls to work on a lot of carbon. In the case of the Top Tier gas, Techron is the active ingredient anyway but the stuff in a bottle is a pretty heavy dose and works fast. I think it was the Top Tier that got all eight of mine out intact because that's all I use.

Good Luck!

 

Thanks for the great advise guys. I did find the techron at a parts store. I am waiting for the parts to come and hopefully in the next week or two I will get to tackle this job.

I was thinking of changing the COP's out as well. I think I might get them from uneeksupply from ebay. Would that be a smart thing to do?

Jeff

 

Hey guys I havent posted in forever I have a 05 F150 XLT with the 5.4 in it also I have already had one tune up done on it at 71k had the double plantium but back in it now i am at 145k and wondering why not the chapion spark plugs because I have already had two of the plantium brake when I replaced the coil pks just a question dont mean to jack your thread or anything

 

Service Procedure - Removal

Tools Necessary:

Thin wall 9/16” spark plug socket, various length extensions and ratchet. (Do not use a standard deep well socket) Beam or dial style torque wrench, (non clicking type). Carbon dissolving carburetor cleaner. Compressed air and blow gun. Shop Vacuum. Nickel Anti-Seize.

IMPORTANT: You MUST adhere to this procedure exactly to prevent breaking spark plugs during removal! Engine must be completely cold (room temperature) before beginning.

Spark Plug Removal

1. Remove coil on plug assemblies and set aside. Using compressed air and shop vac, clean spark plug wells of all dirt and debris. 2. Using a ratchet, back out each spark plug 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn. Fill the spark plug well with carburetor cleaner to just above the hex on the spark plug. (½ to 1 teaspoon) (see illustration #2). 3. Allow a minimum of 30 minutes soak time for the carb cleaner to wick down to the ground electrode shield and soften the carbon deposits at this time.

NOTES: Review the product label on the carburetor cleaner and adhere to all precautionary statements. Use at room temperature with appropriate PPE, (personal protective equipment). 4. Tighten and then loosen the spark plugs working them back and forth to remove. Use the beam style torque wrench and do not exceed 33ft. lbs. removal torque (see illustration #3). If more than 33ft. lbs. is required; place an additional ½ teaspoon of carb cleaner in the well and wait another 15-30 minutes for the carbon to dissolve. 5. Repeat the back and forth effort working the spark plug loose. Some screeching and high effort will be noticed. Remove the spark plugs. 6. Using the shop vac and a small hose, clean out the plug well and combustion chambers of excessive carb cleaner.

WARNING: Excessive carburetor cleaner in the combustion chamber can cause the engine to hydro lock, remove as much as possible.

Spark Plug Installation 7. New plugs should be installed using a thin film coating of high temperature nickel anti-seize on the ground electrode shield. DO NOT coat the ground strap. (see illustration 4) 8. Tighten spark plugs to 25ft lbs.

 

It's not the brand of plug thats the problem. It's a dumb head design that allows carbon to build up around the plug thus causing it to get stuck and break during removal. See the pic above.

 

I just got an email from rockauto saying that the plugs I ordered Motorcraft SP515 are not for my application that they are for a 09-10 F550 superduty. I am assuming rockauto is mixed up?