2005 5.4 3v- replacing phasers, chains, tensioners, and guides
#16
I think the phasers are different on travel and oil tolerances, i think they are L and R specific for a good reason
#18
#19
Chains on, phasers torqued.
Now to find torque values on the timing cover!
#20
Phasers are the same, torque values for front cover are 20-30 nm. Perform a leakdown on all cyls before you build the entire engine back up. Any bent valves and it all comes back apart.
#22
Tick is injectors, which is normal. Cam phasers make a light knock at warm idle, which is also normal.
Edit to add: Tick can also be from exhaust an manifold leak.
Edit to add: Tick can also be from exhaust an manifold leak.
Last edited by Stealth; 05-20-2011 at 08:54 PM.
#26
A couple of notes on my install:
- I removed my timing cover and as such did not need to remove the cams
- I did not have any of the 3 special tools (chain wedge, cam sprocket "holder", or valve spring compressor
- I used a "bf" screwdriver to pop cam followers/rockers off, and used it to pop them back on- focusing on the lifter side (round side of followers). Only the #8 intake follower was a pain!
- I know this will make some cringe, but... I used VICE GRIPS on a non-machined/non-working section of each cam directly behind the sprockets/phasers. I did this to hold the cams while tightening the phasers, and used it to move the sprockets to align the marks on the chain. This was a GREAT HELP with getting things done. Redneck? perhaps, but for those who do not want to buy yet another $100 plus specialty tool you will use once in 20 years, this is a great option.
- I removed my timing cover and as such did not need to remove the cams
- I did not have any of the 3 special tools (chain wedge, cam sprocket "holder", or valve spring compressor
- I used a "bf" screwdriver to pop cam followers/rockers off, and used it to pop them back on- focusing on the lifter side (round side of followers). Only the #8 intake follower was a pain!
- I know this will make some cringe, but... I used VICE GRIPS on a non-machined/non-working section of each cam directly behind the sprockets/phasers. I did this to hold the cams while tightening the phasers, and used it to move the sprockets to align the marks on the chain. This was a GREAT HELP with getting things done. Redneck? perhaps, but for those who do not want to buy yet another $100 plus specialty tool you will use once in 20 years, this is a great option.
#28
Replaced the phasers and chain guides
My 2004 FX4 supercrew 5.4 3V (120K miles) was throwing the p0340 code, also it was idleing rough and sometimes would kill at a stoplight. The motor sounded like the injectors were super loud, especially when hot - but the noise would reduce/go away when I revved it up. So, I decided to open the motor and take this job on. I just replaced both cam phasers, plus chain tensioniers and chain guides. The passenger side chain guide was worn out for sure and it had the old style phasers.
Couple points about the job:
1. you will need to disconnect the A/C lines, so budget for an A/C recharge
2. you will need a special 3V valve spring compressor - you can rent one from www.shopfreedomracing.com
3. you will need a new style pulley puller/installer - you can rent one at O'reillys
4. There were no discernable marks on the chains, so I removed them, folded in half, cleaned the end links with throttle body cleaner, then painted white dots on the end links with hivis gunsight paint.
5. you may get water in your #1 plug hole (if you unhook the heater hose). Mine had a terrible miss and I ended up having to blow the plug hole out with compressed air and then a little WD40, all is well now
6. be prepared to spend all weekend doing this if you have never done the job before
Now, my truck runs great and it is super quiet.
Note: Even though I have a well stocked garage, it may have been better to just pay someone as it took a long time.
Couple points about the job:
1. you will need to disconnect the A/C lines, so budget for an A/C recharge
2. you will need a special 3V valve spring compressor - you can rent one from www.shopfreedomracing.com
3. you will need a new style pulley puller/installer - you can rent one at O'reillys
4. There were no discernable marks on the chains, so I removed them, folded in half, cleaned the end links with throttle body cleaner, then painted white dots on the end links with hivis gunsight paint.
5. you may get water in your #1 plug hole (if you unhook the heater hose). Mine had a terrible miss and I ended up having to blow the plug hole out with compressed air and then a little WD40, all is well now
6. be prepared to spend all weekend doing this if you have never done the job before
Now, my truck runs great and it is super quiet.
Note: Even though I have a well stocked garage, it may have been better to just pay someone as it took a long time.
Last edited by DVD_FX4; 06-26-2011 at 10:43 PM.