so far the worst part about this swap is going to be:

1. The wiring

and........


2. The top four bolts holding the transmission to the engine.


You can see the two top bolts kinda, but what you cant see is the 2 other bolts on either side of the eingine. Hope you can fit your hands behind the heads with a ratcheting box wrench!!!

 

The top 2 bolts can be reached with an open end from on top with the intake manifold off. If those are the first 2 you take off, they shouldn't bind and once broke loose should spin out by hand. The other 2 on each side will end up being some long extensions from the under side. You left the hood on? Are those pics of you pulling yours? Seems like it sits really low in the engine bay...body lift? Can't believe you got it out with the fan and the hood still on... crazy And it looks like you just picked it from one spot?

 

Yeah, it does sit quite low, and nope, no body lift. I did eventually take the hood off, but since i was doing shifts of work, and it began to rain, i left it on until the morning. It was a tight squeeze getting that 5.4 out with the fan, but with a little manuvering, it came pretty easy. Tonight i will be taking the computer out and working on the wiring.

 

ok guys, looks like i'm in need of a new crank. I will post up some pictures later on tonight, but when the v10 threw a rod in the last owners posetion, it tore up the crank quite a bit. I thought it could be ground, and probably could, but the machinist doesn't want to try. Also, it had bent a valve, so i'm going to be putting in new lifters and a new valve. I'm getting the heads surfaced, and cleand, and a valve job done, also, for times sake, i will have them assemble the short block. I would usually do it, but i need the car on the road soon. Any suggestions as far as the modular performance side goes. Rockers? Cams? Timing? any help in this area, while i have the engine apart would be great info. Definatley not looking to make a powerhouse, but an easy cheap mod here would be great. Oh, and its already 2 extra cylinders, so i've already got more power than before.

 

Anyone know how pats works when you swap in a different pcm?

 

you need the cluster, ignition, key, and PCM all to be a matching set, otherwise you are going to have to have your dealer reflash the comp to work. In your case I dont think you can use the excursion cluster (if you even have it) so I think you are stuck having the dealer flash /reprogram the computer to work with your existing cluster, key, & ignition.

OR you can get a custom tune from someone like Troyer performance and they can turn off the PATs. Just keep in mind with this option you will not have the option of running it on the stock tune if you ever needed to (possible smog issues or somehting)

 

I'm actually thinking about tuning the computer myself. I figure how hard can it be. I do this stuff on a daily basis for the navy's planes. Anyone know of some good tuning software for the eec-v computers?

 

Yeah,you should have no problem then.
I don't have the know how or the patients to learn how...lol

If your doing it yourself. Just turn off the PATS and you'll be good.

I have the PATS turned of in my tune since I swapped a Lightning computer in the truck.

Phil

 

SCT pro-racer pack might work for ya

 

Well, i got the bill today for the machine shop. Looks like the magic number is a tad bit over the 1600-1800 mark i was looking at earlier. With a complete 5 angle valve job, resurfacing the head and block, 20 new followers, a new intake valve, new crankshaft (cherry), bore and hone 30 over on the block and a good cleaning brought me up to 2600. Really not too horrible. Oh, and 2600 is with the machine shop building the short block. But on my Navy budget, i will be saving 200 by doing the short block myself. Once i get the motor back in the morning i will post up some pictures of the new(ish) thing. Oh, and the guys at west coast engine and cylinder threw in the master kit with it (seals, oil pump, all timing and every plug and bearing you can think of) before i get into it, does anyone have any suggestions, or good tricks of the trade on the modulars other than the 5.4/4.6 books i've been reading lately. Ive got the experience on the older motors, but i know that these new mod motors are TTY so thats 1 new thing to me.

Thanks in advance
travis

 

Just a question for anyone who has ever messed around with these motors, but do the heads and intake not always line up?

I am matching up all the parts, and it apears that one of the passages on the rear passenger side head dosen't line up with the intake pattern. All of the runners and spark plugs match up, but right at the back of the head, there is a whole that doesn't even line up on the v10.

Now heres the weird part. I didn't look at how it was on the v8 when it was in the truck, but when i line up the v8 intake on the v8 it came off of, the same thing is here too. The back passage doesn't line up.

When i compare the v10 intake to the v8 intake, they are exactly the same pattern and shape, with the obvious extra two cylinders, but, that back passage does not get covered.

So my ultimate question is, Does that passage even get used, or does something just block it off. My expedition ran fine for years that way, so I am assuming that is just the way they came. Any help here would be great.

 

Anyone ?

 

Well, i've put up the old 99 5.4 for sale. I need a little cash flow after that large machinist bill. heres the link https://www.f150online.com/forums/pa...ml#post4526262

If you have any questions,

send me an email or pm or whatever

Travis

 

That back intake lining up may be you have a non PI intake and PI heads?? when we tryed to swap my buddys 5.4 for a PI 5.4 the plastic intake was broke we tryed to use his non-PI intake and the last coolant passage would show.

is the passage blocked off on the head or is it a true coolant port?